oldhemi

I can not say for sure if they are a straight bolt-on. I would bet that they would fit, but the ends of the shocks could be different. You *could* have him ship the 77-78 shocks if they do not bolt onto your 260Z shocks. Email some pics and measurements back and forth.

Hey Larry! Someone posted very recently somewhere that he thought that the quality and fit was ok. He did say that it was "China Chrome" - which probably matches the original shine. I am tempted to get one. OTH, some place in Colorado has been getting great reviews over on the classicz board AND they have stood behind their work. $300 is the going rate.

260Z's came with an electric pump mounted near the gas tank along with an external filter. The electric pump has an internal filter also! It could be plugged. The e-pump is "activated" by the "transistor ignition" box mounted on the passenger side wall. The e-pump is only running when the RPM's are over 400. This is effectively your "shutoff" switch. So, your pump is not on when you are cranking the starter - or if you hit a tree and the engine stops running. BTW, the e-pump was added in 1973 to help solve fuel percolation and vapor lock problems. The flat top carbs were also added for emissions. This info is documented in the FSM. IMO, you do not need the e-pump at this time(trying to get the car to run). TonyD has posted in the past (in response to a question by me) as to a good solution to converting to a JY Ford "safety" rollover-type switch. Do a search on my ID or something because I dont have the info at my present location. Do you still have the original flat top carbs? Just asking to help narrow down some of your problems. A few feet of rubber hose and a fuel tank with a few gallons of gas in it plugged into your mechanical pump would be my recommendation to bypass fuel line and gas tank problems while helping diagnose where your problem might lie. IMO, I would not get SS lines at this time until you have figured out that your lines are fubar. IMO, SS lines are expensive and a little harder to work with, but its your money! Using some air pressure, you could blow out the metal lines and you can judge then whether they need replacing. I have had excellent results doing this with brake lines also. Sometimes I had used miner spirits in the brake lines as a flush. BTW, welcome to the red-headed stepchild 260Z club! My car has been sleeping since late 1991 and I will be going through some of the same things that you will be doing depending on MY health. Both me and me car car are in ruff shape.

Crazy, I just want to let you know that you have done a great job in this thread. Well written, good photos, and great insight into what works(for you) and does not! Its been an interesting read for me even though I have no plans or interest to do many of your mods. Once again, Great job!

If you want to convert to 240Z bumpers, this guy has something for you! Seller was very good w/emails. NOT MINE: ebay link

260's were the 1st Z's with "transistor" ignition. I converted mine to a JY 240Z point dizzy along with correct coil because a replacement for the "ECU" at the time ('77) was around $400+. Many years later I find that there was a TSB concerning the connectors to the unit were flakey. The 260Z also had the infamous seatbelt interlock system that would prevent the car from starting if the seatbelts were not fastened. Yours probably has been defeated after all of these years? I would also listen to what the previous posters said - all good items! According to the FSM, the electric fuel pump does not run if the RPM's are less than 400 - meaning that it is not running when you are trying to start it. It does contain an internal filter that you need to be aware of.

PART that car out! While anything is fixable, you are not in a position to fix that car. Chalk it up to a learning experience and get out now. Been there, done that and have the Tee-shirt.

Home Depot, swimming pool supply houses etc. Its a common acid available to the public. Search here and classicz, zcar.com and Atlantic z club. They have a good tech section from "Blue" with PICTURES on cleaning gas tanks. You could use the old and tried method of a gas can with a rubber hosestuck in it hooked to your fuel pump for testing purposes.

Upon further review, I dont think the Mangolesti in the picture is the same casting. Note that piece sticking up near the upper front bolt on the left of the picture - not on mine. Also, the casting curves towards the carb mount - it even continues into the front and rear carb's ports! The brace part of the casting that connects the carb ports looks different - even when I squint my eyes!

You need to do search on it. It has been covered here , other forums, and the 'net - with pics also - many times. Someone here sells custom made front brackets for the bumper exchange. I am not real savvy on it because I have a 260Z and his dont fit. The rears MIGHT involve some welding on the bumpers. The front valances are different for the 240/early 260's compared to the late 260/280's. The valance is 3 pieces like your 280Z. You can bolt them on and you can get the same years grill. You will of course have to do some wiring for the signal lights. Another item to be aware of is the radiator. It is larger on the 280Z. But, I believe it will fit extremely tight against the earlier valance. I have read somewhere that folks install the 280Z radiator into the earlier Z's and have run into this minor "problem". Its possible that the 280Z body mount for the radiator on your car wont have this minor issue. Edit: I see some folks have already replied! IMHO, changing the parking lights to the earlier style is not a great idea because they were damaged by folks when parking! I think that they are also more prone to rust because of the openings/indentations for the lights. I was seiously considering going the other way and convert my valance and lights to the late 260/280's. But, I am leaning towards a 280 spoiler and using headlights with signal lights built into the light casing. Search is your friend.

Dtnslvr - I think that you are right! I did a little Googling with your info and found Mangoletsi manifolds. No pics that I have found other than yours and mine. Would have been nice if that link had a picture of the top or even the bottom. I have a feeling that the manifolds might have been sold under a different name here in the states. Thanks a lot for the info!

I have snatched some very good pictures of the intake manifold that I have had on my car since '76-'77. I bought it new from Bap Geon and my receipt does not have the name on it! I have no intention of replacing it or my DCOE40's. I am only curious if it can be used with other carbs or ITB's etc. Please post if you have any history or knowledge on this intake manifold! Thanks much!

Boyr, I am in the same boat with the stock rear drums om my 260Z. Over on classic Z cars, Beandip had repaired his by slitting open the sheath and using a cable from Home Depot and the original ends. Other have bought the 77-78 280Z cable from Blackdragon and changed the ends. Good luck.

That passenger floor pan looks like mine! Your drivers side - is it salvageable? IMHO,that front bumper/spoiler combo looks pretty good. I am considering getting one because it might be more cost effective that fooling with the rusted out parking light valances and then fooling with a real bumper and mounts. Floor pans and floor rails are almost a given in most of these cars. Where I would be concerned is the engine frame rails. Take a look at my pics in my signature and see if yours are as bad as mine. The stiffeners rust out pretty bad. With my limited fabrication skills, I am going to make the rear units and the sheetmetal inner fender. But, not the triangular shaped stiffners that are above the cross member. They are beyond my skill level. So, I am going to contact folks that are cutting up California type parts cars for them. Oh yeah, welcome to the red-headed, bastard, stepchild 260Z club!

Yup, early/late 260-280 panels are the same. (Hoover musta had a brain fart) Like the 240's, they are 2 piece. You should be able to get a 240 set up for your 280. Different strokes for different folks - I like the 260-280's little better! IMHO, I would concentrate on converting the park benches on the 280's to 70-72 240's, 73 240 or early 260's bumpers. More bang (not as subtle as a tail light conversion) as far as looks are concerned!

I found my passenger side looking like yours but a little worse. I started peeling off the sound deadener installed by the factory (like yours) and that was really all of my floor! If they had done the whole floor in that stuff but thicker instead of the metal - well maybe we would still have floors! You are going to have to strip all of that stuff and look underneath your car to check the condition of the floor rails! I screwdriver or old knife that punch through metal will reveal the extent of your rust. Depending on what you find will depend on how far you have to go in repairs. If your rust is confined to small areas and patches can be welded in to good metal - go for it. If yours are like mine and Jacob80's, then you should go with zeddfindings complete floor pans. Baddog sells heavy duty floor rails for a good price and is up in your neck of the woods!I am going with Baddog rails and zedfindings floorpans(not using his rails). $250 for both floor pans and $85 a side for Baddog rails. Plus shipping. Look in the fabrication section for various floor repairs and install pics. Advise there is to do one floor at a time. Even if you are unable to weld, you can do all of the prep work for the welder to save a lot of money.

dmwstuff - and others, just loosen the Phillips screw at the outer end of the shock. Maybe slowly if there is still gas in there. It wont go flying out of there, but I would not put myself in the way. I found this by mistake many years ago when I was attempting to take the thing apart - I mistakenly thought that the piece that the bumper bolted onto was removable. I attempted this last week on the shock that I did not let the gas out years ago - it was empty! After the gas is out, you will probably find that the shock will not retract - because its been stuck in that position for many years. I loosened mine up with some PB Blaster and some whacks with a BFH. I can slide them in and out to where I want them and will most likely weld them in the position that I like on the tube portion. This has been covered here - with pics even! I have seen weights for these things from 8lbs to 15 lbs each. I guy I trust with a 260Z posted 13 lbs.

Are you and the car/parts in Houston? If you are gonna scrap the stuff, I might be able to use something.

MSA's and the beautiful "Halloween" car that you referred to do not look the same to me. MSA's look to have a ridge molded into the flap - but I could very well be wrong. Coincidentally, I was just today looking at my POS and noted that all of the paint is gone in the very area that mudflaps protect. I think that oddmanout's are a flat piece of steel or plastic or something - how's that for precise info! I hope that he finds the time for a response! Due to the thinness of our metal I am wondering aloud if it would be cool to use panel adhesive instead of drilling holes in the mudflap and the fender.......

Tony, I believe that you are correct. I assumed they were brass. They are nothing like my 260's rusty originals. The teeth are a nice touch and these WILL be going onto the 260's L26. At least I will have something shiny under the hood for now! cygnus - nice tip. Gotta love another use for duct tape!

"Not that I'm cheap or anything!" - Man after me own heart! Information added to my ever growing personal Word Document! Many thanks for the tip. I also have read that the 260Z fuel pump is also tied into the ECU on the kick panel, along with the nefarious set belt interlock system. I am considering cleaning up wires and units that are no longer need or wanted and this could be very helpful if I decide to keep the electric pump! I did not know that the 260Z pump has a filter - I have to check that out - thanks for that tip!

Yeh Tony, I thought about that AFTER I posted. Actually, I wondered what folks are doing that ADD an electric fuel pump to an early Z for that very reason(rollover/hitting something). However, it would also make sense to have the pump working when CRANKING the motor at start up time! OTH, the mechanical pump works just fine on cold starts - maybe not so good on a warm/hot start with heat build up under the hood. As you well know, the 260Z's wiring engineering and components leave a lot to be desired. OTOOH, this pump WAS added for vapor lock/heat soak reasons - not to feed my webers after leaving the car at an airport for 10 days in the winter!

Not to hijack, any reason that brass nuts cant be used on the exhaust/intake studs? I just took manifolds off of an l28 that I recently picked up that had mostly new-ish looking studs and brass nuts with a flat washer molded in(with "teeth"). Twas easy to remove these nuts. Would brass loose their torque value as opposed to steel units? I use them on exhaust connections with great success!

Hey dacshundt, I run 2 filters, one in the back and one right in front of the mechnical pump - I have a rusty gas tank Here is an interesting tidbit I found: Here’s what the 1974 260Z service manual, section EF Fuel System, page EF-7 says: Electric Pump Operation This system controls the operation of the electric fuel pump according to the engine speed. It receives the engine speed information from a voltage generated by the voltage regulator. When the engine is running below 400 rpm, the electric fuel pump cut relay #1 remains OFF and the pump will not be operated. While cranking the engine, the electric fuel pump relay #2 remains OFF and the pump will not be operated. Under normal engine running conditions, both the electric pump and the mechanical pump are operated. Have no idea why the engineers came up with this!

You will be fine w/o electric pump. It was added to help with vapor lock/ heat soak problems. There should be a filter mounted back there also. If missing - add one, if there - change it!