bjhines

Ohh yea.... That is the reason for the flat alumilite panel bonded to the hood. I intend to use a pan that mounts between the carb and intake and extends up to seal against the bottom of the flat panel in the hood.

I have a different impression of what the cowl induction openings will do. This depends on a lot of unknowns, but... The air at the base of the windshield is pretty high pressure. The rear cowl-opening will almost certainly take in a lot of air. The front opening is pretty small in area, but it is also in a place that will have a lot of air flow, NACA inlet, etc... I am willing to bet that BOTH the front and rear openings will see a lot of airflow if the opening can dump it under the hood. I'll bet that a true COWL-induction airbox will see fairly high pressure. With a limited amount of airflow consumed by the engine, I think that the front opening will be overcome by the air entering the rear opening. Flow into the front will stall and possibly even allow airflow BACKWARDS, out of the front opening. Here is what I have come up with so far.... ... If the front opening was larger, perhaps by dropping the NACA inlet floor and enlarging the entry opening, You would begine to see flow through the cowl box from front to rear.

Jimbo, That looks great. Nice work! What are you doing with the cowl-induction scoop?

Oh... wow. That is a tough one. You really need to understand electricity first. I cannot imagine that any one book would suffice. The wiring techniques are not that tough to understand. But reverse-engineering and troubleshooting requires a degree or years of experience. If you need specifics, then post a specific problem.

hehe... The ballast resistor is there to allow the coil to operate at a higher than normal voltage when starting the car. I am not sure that the EFI uses this type of ballast resistor. The condenser is a capacitor. It serves to suppress arcing across the relay contacts in the voltage regulator circuits. If you have a solid state regulator then you do not need this capacitor. I don't know if this will help. Here is a picture of the 1973 coil wiring diagram. This will give you a better idea of the runs between the different components as they sit in the car. ...

Those Coleman sleeves did not fit my 240Z struts. I had to open them up a little on the lathe. They may be making them differently than in the past. I ordered the ones to fit Bilstien shocks. I used a part number I got from a similar discussion thread. I used a slightly different method for supporting the sleeve on the strut tube. I turned the factory spring support into a lip that holds the coilover at the right height. I turned an appropriate lip on the inside of the coilover tube. ...

It is late... but as I recall... 1. Headlight switch should feed the 2 headlight fuses power. 2. The power wires go from the fuse panel, out to the headlight "common" terminals. (LHL=RED/YELLOW wire) (RHL=RED wire) The low-beam terminals on both headlights are "T"ed together an run back to the high/low switch (lowbeam=RED/BLACK wire) The high-beam terminals on both headlights are "T"ed together and run back to the high/low switch (highbeam=RED/WHITE wire) The circuit runs from the main light switch, to the fuse panel, to the headlights, and back to the high/low switch, then to ground.

Yes... The ammeter wires must be bolted together in order for the system to work from both the battery and the alternator. There happens to be a very few things that operate on the large white wire. In fact your alternator will run the rest but the battery will not charge unless the white and white+red wires are connected together. White = battery White/red = alternator They meet at the Ammeter. That is how it shows a charging state or a draining state on the battery.

Hmmm... I had a bad front cover cause general cooling problems. It took a while to figure out. A previous waterpump failure had augered the front cover to the point that no waterpump would ever work effectively. I have another suggestion. To get more accurate readings as to what is hot and what is not... Buy a $50 temp probe/V/ohm meter and use the thermocouple to check true temps of the oil-pan and the head.

Here is a diagram of the stock Ignition circuit ...

I have really studied the wiring on this 1973 240Z. Mine is a 1973 June build month. It really has a lot more wiring than either of my 1972 models. I have also unwrapped a 1972 harness. The wiring is the same but simpler mainly due to the lack of EGR relays and sensors. The washer/autowipe also adds a great deal of complexity. Unless I am completely missing something, On a stock 240Z... When starting the car, The only voltage that goes to any of the guages and related IGN circuit devices is forced to back-feed through the ballast resistor. This may allow partial-voltage operation of these devices. I dunno... The resistor ensures that any power backfeeding is greatly reduced and incapable of heating the wires. There is NO FUSE on this circuit(only a ballast resistor). These are small 18g wires. These wires are the longest runs in the vehicle. They are capable of ruining the ENTIRE HARNESS if they do melt. The problem I forsee comes from the fact that bypassing the ballast-resistor removes the current limiting imposed on the stock configuration. Bypassing the resistor could lead to burned wires if IGN circuit devices have been added... and are all ON while starting the car. This is a good example of why you should always use relays to power new components you add to your stock electrical system. The potential for fire or harness damage is greatly increased with seemingly small modifications to your electrical system. In this case, the ballast resistor ALSO serves to LIMIT CURRENT in the coil+/TACH/IGN circuit when starting the car.

You can space the cover plate higher on the threaded neck. You need to space the switch with washers from the rear of your panel. This keeps the cover-plate on the flush surface of your mounting plate. You could shorten the toggle. Grind it down a little. Don't get it too hot. A combination of both would definitely work. I am going to make another plug for AUTOZONE and ADVANCE. They have an amazing variety of switches with various length toggles. I have been ordering parts from Waytech Wire. They have a fair selection at good prices. Some of Waytech's offerings have a minimum purchase quantity. I have a huge bag of red and black terminal boots similar to alternator lug boots but larger. PM me if you want some.

There is no fuse on the IGN coil circuit!!! NO wonder I have seen them with melted wires so often.

Something else comes to mind. correct me if I am wrong... The IGN black-white goes dead when the key is in the start position. The IGN black-white also runs the gauges and accessories. It looks like they are supposed to shut off when the start key is engaged. The coil gets power via. the green-white wire in the start position so the ignition works. Everything else shuts down(except the lighting circuits and the cigarette lighter). The thing is, My car's gauges work when the key is in the start position. The lack of a ballast resistor means that they back feed from the bypassed ballast-resistor back into the IGN circuits. This backfeeding is probably not good. That long 18g wire run is not sufficient to handle the loads that might be placed on the IGN circuits. There is potential for a fire hazard if the starter is engaged for longer than normal periods of time with all the IGN related loads ON. I have an idea to solve the problem. I use a 5 amp Diode in place of the ballast resistor. Cathode on the Green-white. I have a box of metal body diodes somewhere. I need to start referencing some numbers.

I have wire hell in my garage right now. The culled pile is getting as big as the keep-pile. This is not my first rodeo. I was just surprised at the layout of the ballast resistor and coil arrangement. The tach needs the coil+ run through it's sensing loop. The start key bypasses the ballast resistor. These are the only reasons I can see for this extremely long rat-maze. I have always used this arrangement in my 240Zs just bypassing the resistor and connecting the green-white and black-white that span the resistor. My l24 powered 240Z just has the bypassed ballast with a higher impeadance coil. I will have to see about shortening this up with a splice under the right corner of the dash. I can effectively shorten the run to ~22' in an easy to reach location. I could shorten it to ~14' with an slight unwrap of the harness near the tachometer. That would require pulling the dash. I don't think I could work through the tach-hole or from underneath.

I kid you not!!!! The power to run your coil+ has to travel 44'(thats fourty-four feet) down 18 gauge wires with no fewer than 9 connections and 2 splices. AND THIS IS JUST FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH!!! That does not include the numerous splices and connections from the alternator to feed the ignition switch in the first place. Holy crap!!!! 44 feet!!!! through 18 gauge wire!!!! No wonder the ignitions suck on these cars.

I came away with one overreaching conclusion from those tests. The Datsun S-30 has crappy aero. There are a lot more things wrong with the body shape than the damn nose of the car. I find it humorous that this argument has gone on in this way considering that the shape of the nose is way down on the list of crappy aero issues. If you want good aero then buy a more modern car. As far as the vertical hatch fins, They thought they could improve airflow over the rear deck and improve the directional stability of the car(especially in traffic at speed). One cause of the rear deck spillover comes from rounded transitions from the sides to the top surfaces of the car.(modern cars are slab-sided for that reason) The overall proportions of the car and the near vertical windshield are all wrong for aero. The tucked-in sides of the car cause disruptions at the wheel wells. Skirts are not entirely the answer to this problem. Think about tire exposure and the protruding rear edges of the front wells. We found that the body trim and glass mounting gaskets suck in comparison to modern, flush glass and gutterless roofs. The front edge of the hood is way too high off the ground. The G-nose addresses this problem. I think it's weak point is the fact that it still traps air under it's considerable overhanging profile. This manages to pry the front end up anyway and negate any positive effect from the lower hood profile. The G-nose needs a spoiler lip that protrudes ahead of the bumper-line. This would keep the air out from under it and probably work to great effect. The other problem with the G-nose is the fact that it is extra weight in the worst possible place on the car.

LEDs have a faster response time than incandecent filaments. Who cares. It is a light!!! light it up man.

ohhh.. and lightbulbs should be wired in parallel.

Cars that use bulbs that run dim/bright to serve different signal functions ALL HAVE MULTIPLE FILAMENTS AND MULTIPLE WIRES RUNNING TO THOSE VARIOUS FILAMENTS. It is just like having separate bulbs for each intensity. Here is a little electrical exercise for you guys. If you have a 10watt light in a 10 volt circuit.Ohm's law states that there will be 1 AMP of current flow with 10 OHMs resistance in the light bulb. Lets say you want to run the bulb at 50% brightness. A lot of you guys will say put twice the resistance in the circuit. That works out to 20 OHMs using a 10 ohm resistor in series to reduce the power to 5 WATTs. It makes sense except that you will find that the light bulb barely glows at all. The problem is that you now have 2 different items using the reduced power. The resistor generates heat with no light, the lightbulb gets only a fraction of the available 5 watts of power. This is why you use different filaments for different brightnesses. It is best to use an appropriate filament with the proper current draw for the intended brightness.

Well... This thread got me to donate.

Yes, It is the aftermarket replacement. It is the only affordable option other than the JY. I checked on the factory replacement fan. It is nearly $500.

Nice!!! Very creative on the extension

Rudy, Chemicalblue is not using the 3 wire(2 speed) Taurus fan. The Taurus fan draws only 17 amps on the low speed wire(235 WATTS). It draws nearly 40 amps on the high speed wire(550 WATTS). The absolute maximum current the Spal PWM can deal with is 30 amps(425 WATTS). Therefore the Spal PWM must only be used on the LOW speed wire. To put this in perspective, I spent ~$100 on an aftermarket 14" fan from Summit that only draws 10 amps(145 WATTS). Something else that should be noted is that 1. Fan CFM ratings(airflow) depend on the radiator they are mounted to(1 row vs 4 row). 2. Free airflow(low speed, high torque) current draw will be higher ... than the restrictive airflow(high speed, low tq) current draw. 3. Ultimately the CFM and current ratings given in Catalogs are useless for anything more than generalizations. 4. The Taurus fan beats the crap out of anything but the most expensive($450+) fans available. 5. The Taurus fan beats the crap out of most other fans ON THE LOW SPEED WIRE!!!! without resorting to the monstrous 40 amp current draw of the high speed wire.

I tested current through the fan on both speeds. I placed the fan on the radiator that it is to be used with to make the tests. Low speed draws 16.5 Amps @14.2V error is only +/-1.5% Hign speed draws 38.7 Amps @ 14.2V same range setting +/-1.5%