bjhines

That's not paint... It's ~rustproofing~.

Ohhh, and TonyD, I am planning to use a tranny blanket instead of the heavy gauge plate steel.

You can use couplers, but you need to support one end lcose to the coupler. Multiple couplers can work against each other and loosen. Try to make your lines continuous if possible. Where you do use couplers you need to have access to them to check for leaks.

Thanks for the praise. That was a hard job.... well, i took me nearly 2 weeks spending a few hours here and there. 25' of hardline is plenty to get the job done. I shopped at Autozone for the brake lines and hardware. I really must give Autozone praise here... They have the most sophisticated stock of brake hardware ANYWHERE in town. I even visited the Napa and Carquest regional warehouses. Napa and the rest seem to think no one fixes anything but American cars. Autozone stocks brake parts for EVERY car. I used the stock clamp rubbers. I clamped them in a vise and carefully drilled them to 3/8". I used the stock 3/16" individual clips from 2x 240Zs for the brake lines.

Here is another pic of the rear routing. This area will be heat shielded. I could not get them properly bent and in place without using a union for each line. ...

More plumbing for the brake and fuel lines. ...

The regulator requires that I use the same size return as feed. This is a high pressure system from the tank. It is reduced to carby pressure at the front regulator. The tank is plumbed with -6 fittings so I used all 3/8" I considered placing the lines below the floors along the frame rails... But I really think this is better. I have a driveshaft loop that I still need to install.

I have fitted the filler in the stock location. The filler has been cut off and spun 180 degrees to point towards the fuell cell. I am tying the fill-vent tube into the stock bung on the filler neck. I am eliminating the equalizing vent and relying on the vent in the stock cap. The ID of the filler neck is 2.5". I will use a coupler between the fuel cell fill-hose and the stock filler-neck. The lines are 3/8" aluminum and run in the stock tunnel clips. I used bulkhead fittings for the inside. ...

I have some pics of the fuel cell to stock filler modifications. I am using the stock fuel filler that is cut-off and spun around 180 degrees. I am also taking advatage of the fill vent tube-bung on the stock filler. The fuel cell uses a 2.5" fill and 1.25" fill-vent, it also has a -6 vent line. I am eliminating the -6 vent and relying on the vent relief valve in the stock cap. The stock filler ID is 2.5". The fuel cell filler hose is 2.5" ID. I will use a 2.5" OD coupler between the fuel cell filler hose and the stock filler tube. The vent hose will also require a 1.25" OD coupler. ...

If you are using the RT mount then the nose of the diff will be very close to the crossmember. I am going to put a piece of rubber in between them to limit the downward movement of the diff.

WOW... Their prices are SKY HIGH!!!!

WOW... I have 2 COMPLETE 1973 240Z radios with all the trimmings and they both work. I'll just keep em for another 10 years.

I used the cage to rienforce this area from above. I am definitely using the lower differential crossmember along with my RT mount. I modified the X-member to clear dual exhaust.

On a chassis dyno you can "increase" the HP numbers by doing some simple cheats. Align the drive wheels straight, Use smaller, harder tires remove the brake pads remove the accessory belts disconnect the exhaust remove the aircleaner and a dozen other things that can increase your dyno numbers but have nothing to do with streetable horsepower.

I bent some fuel and brake lines running down the original tunnel locations. I got my hands on a nice brake double-flare kit and an AN- flaring tool. 45 degrees for the brake flares and 37 degrees for the AN- lines. I went searching locally for brake lines and flare nuts for 3/16" line, metric and SAE threads. Autozone has the best selection in town for all brake lines and fittings. Autozone also has the nicest brake tubing with a slick rustproof coating. All the AN-6 fittings and the 3/8" aluminum tubing came mail order. I am using the original brake pressure warning switch for safety and as a junction box to the master cylinders. The rest of the system is to built to fit SAE threads to AN-3 brake lines. The fuel lines are all -6 AN. There will be flexible lines from the fuel cell to the bulkhead connectors, hardline running under the car, and flexible lines to the regulator. I'll get some more pics up soon.

I just don't get why people think they have to upgrade street brakes, other than the bling factor. There is NO COMPARISON between the braking events for street vs track. What are people doing to require "performance" brake parts on their street car? Give me a break, you stomp the middle pedal to stop. Don't hit it too hard or you will skid the tires. The tires are the limiting factor on the street. How are you EVER going to improve on the braking system aside from keeping it in working order. I will give myself an answer to that q.: The factory brake system can gain an improved feel and reduced maintenance costs by changing to more modern rear disk brakes. The "feel" I am talking about is not related to initial grip or anything that could be changed by pad choices. I am talking about the "2-step feel" of the factory disk and drum combination. Getting rid of those drums gets rid of the pedal action required to overcome the rear shoe retraction springs. If you don't feel this 2-step action on factory S-30s then you don't have enough experience with sports car brakes(so don't bother upgrading). The bias of the brake system will change depending on how you go about switching to rear disks, so that is not just as easy as bolting on the rear disk related parts. You really have to rework the entire brake system and make good pad choices for that to ACTUALLY improve the overall braking performance. This still has nothing to do with cross drilled or slotted brake disks. This has nothing to do with performance brake pads. I think the ideas for streetable-track pad compounds is a folly. No doubt they are better at high temps than cheapo organics, but THEY ARE NOT RACE PADS. The race pads simply don't fade. The race pads will fry your rotors before they quit gripping. The trackable street pads(ex. Ferodo DS2500) DO FADE. They tend to fade just as I need to transition into the turn under trail brail braking situations. It is much harder to modulate when you are constantly applying more pressure to maintain braking force. If some of these people actually attended an HPDE they would quickly understand that these "performance-street" brake parts are a scam(like washer nozzel lights).

wow.. That is a thick core. I am interested to know what the specs are on the radiator that did not work. Some pics of the old one would be great.

I drove a gold, 1984, 300D until I could not stand to look at it anymore. Then my wife drove the thing until she had bashed it's body to pieces. Then we sold it to the neighbors and their kid drove it until they wrecked it. Then some guy came by my house asking me to sign off on paperwork for a salvage title so he could fix it up and drive it some more. The damn thing had 150,000 miles on it when I bought it in 1994, It had nearly 300,000 miles on it when the neighbors kid wrecked it. I think it is probably still ticking off the miles in Mexico somewhere. I don't think I would put that kind of motor in my Z car, but it was an impressive car. It would definitely haul ass once the turbo got going. I don't think you have many tranny options and that Merc auto-tranny shifted like a train wreck.

well... There ya go... Could we get a pic of this fancy radiator.

Those look really cool. But they do nothing for your braking performance on the street or track. In fact they will make humming noises when you come to a hard stop because of the pretty little partterns on them.

yes

good god.... a 5mph impact in the right places could do thousands in damage. It is insane to assume a 25MPH impact is not going to do any damage. Why don't you go get in your car and get a running start at 25MPH and hit your neighbor's parked car in the drivers door. Come back and tell us what happens. I see the dumbest 5hit online... Then I see the dumbest comments about it.

This is for Fuel injected systems as an alternative to the EXPENSIVE!!!($100-$150) aftermarket racing fuel filter assemblies rated for high pressure applications. GM 3/8" fuel filter. Part number FF3504 or G481. It uses the GM O-ringed line connections that must be adapted to fit my AN-6 lines. It turns out that Dorman products has a repair kit on the "Help" racks that will allow adaptation to fit the AN hardware. It is part number 800-233(sending unit repair kit). I cut the GM flared end off and adapted it to AN fittings using an Earl's 3/8" tubing to AN-6 hose connector. Ta DA!!!! It fits and seals and the whole shebang costs less than an Aftermarket fuel filter replacement element. I can get these off the shelf at K-mart or damn near any store that carries filters. Sometimes I am so smart I scare myself.

And before you do all that theoretical math you can get a temp probe and meter from HomeDepot and figure out if your radiator even gets enough hot water through it in the first place.

You state that you want similar performance on all four corners yet what you have is diss-similar performance you are trying to fix. I would bet that you don't even need to stay within the same range of materials much less manufacturers. The demands on the rear brakes are entirely different than the fronts. Think about it...For one... you have vented rotors on the front and pancakes on the rear. Secondly...The fronts are rotors on hats, the rears one one piece cast. Third... fourth, and fithly, etc. There is nothing similar about any part of your braking system except lateral symetry. There are nuances to maintaining pad and rotor contact patches and proper bedding in. So... Yes... There are reasons for ~some people to run into problems when swapping between 2 different sets of pads. Think about the typical M3 BMW driver. Many of these cars are regularly tracked(hard) and then driven to work daily for many more miles in between track events. Large differences in the way the rotors and pads wear can adversely affect one or the other when pads are swapped. But keep in mind that race pads do most of the rotor wear.. street pads tend to conform to the shape of the rotor, where race pads shape the rotor to conform to them. You can still get away with lots of street miles and the race pads will still fit when you swap them back in. We are not BMW drivers(for the most part). My car will see less than a thousand street miles, and 6-10 track events in a year. My street pads seem happy to conform to the rotor wear from the track pads. The rotors don't change wear patterns enough between track events for the race pads to need rebedding beyond a few hard stops. As far as the pad material transferred to the rotors... So what? That is a lot of hype about perfectly normal hot brake wear. It is not like you will contaminate one pad material with the other. You see it on race car rotors because they get really freaking hot. You dont see it on street rotors because they never get hot enough. This is a one day old rotor with Hawk-Black pads at road Atlanta. Notice the nice bluing of the rotor. That is not a track that is hard on brakes either. There is a lot of material transferred onto this rotor. But it is easily wiped clean by my street pads when I slap them on. The street pads polish them up nicely.