zguitar71

yes

Hey I have an R190 that I am having set up. The problem is getting the the pinion saft nut tight. It seems there must be a special tool to do this. According to the person I am dealing with the nut should be torqued to 280 lbs. 1st is that right? I thought it sounded too high. 2nd to torque the nut down the pinion must be held in place, held so that it does not spin. The guy thinks there must be a special tool for this. He has done many r180's and 200's but the 190 is new to him. He said the 180's and 200 are easy to do but the recessed pinion nut is a problem for him. Does anyone know if there is a special tool for this or if one could be made? Thanks Christopher

If you are not going to cut up the car then you will have to use the wheel/tire set up I have in FP. I use Goodyear G-19 23x9x15 R250 tires with 15x7 wheels with a -12 offset. They do not rub inside or out though they do stick out past the fender but they are so small in diameter they do not hit the fenders. I have AZC springs 200 rear and 180 front with Illumina's. I have 4 1st place finishes this year and 1 2nd place out of 5 races (so far) against other similar z's, 911's and 914 6's with better set ups, same tires. I have about -1.75 camber in the front with 1/4 of toe out and -1.5 camber rear with 1/4 toe in. I got that from using camber bushings. The caster is whatever it came with from the factory. My car has the poormans set up and I win often including 3 fast times of the day trophies so far this year. It is not what you drive but how you drive it. Your car is set up just fine like it is except I would move the stiffer springs to the rear. If you go stiffer than 250 springs with the sticky tires you will run the risk of cracking the body of the car because you do not have any reinforcements. I don't have reinforcement (except strut bars front and rear) in my car and no problems yet but I bet I will at some point, the super sticky slicks are hard on the car's body (flex). I have seen many cars with 350-400 springs on the Illumina's and they do handel well. I have heard the heavy springs will over work thus over heat the shocks and run them eventually. Autocrossing probably does not generate the heat due to the short run time; though, shocks valved to run heavy springs (400 or so) probably do handel better. Ground Control makes some camber plates that do not require cutting the tower tops and the EMI plates do not require cutting either. The difference between my car with good street tires and slicks is around 6-11 seconds depending on the course. If you go to the slicks I use you should gain more than 3 seconds. The Quaife requires the unloaded (inside)wheel to have some traction in order to throw torque to the outside (loaded) wheel. The softer rear, no sway bar in the rear, set up allows the inside wheel to stay on the ground harder giving more traction to it thus getting more torque to the ouside wheel. If you are not willing to cut, cage/reinforce, strip and flare the car then you will never be to the potential of FP. A real FP car is not streetable. They weigh 2100 LBS (with a 2.8) and have 300+ HP and high compression requiring race fuel with a big cam, ect... No modded up street car with a set of slicks slapped on will compete, though they do a pretty good job. In a real FP Z I will always out run my car, just how it is. I say get some slicks and have fun and remember your driving abilities dictate the time more than the set up. When you are driving really well then your times will get better with the better set up.

40 divided by 25.4 = 1.57 To change mm to inches divide by 25.4, so a 1.5" spacer/adapter would be great for your +40mm wheels.

When you swing the rear struts down and out from under the fenders keep an eye on the brake line. I have done the job on my car and a few others, only once did I destroy a brake line. I was getting the gland nut off and pulled a little too hard with the pipe wrench and snaped the line. If you are carefull that will not happen. I disconnect them now, I rather bleed the lines than buy new ones and bleed too.

650 LB FT torque would probably still twist the 8 point cage and subframe connectors you have. It is probably cheaper and better performance to go with an RB26dett.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112526 Get a set of these.

Not a 0 offset and stock fenders. They will go past the edge of the fenders, you would need flares.

Slicks - i.e. not DOT - are illegal for classes under straight modified (E Mod is where a Z would end up). This is not true. Prepared and Modified both use non DOT tires. I race in F Prepared using Goodyear G-19 23x9x15 R250 slicks.

35:8 is a 4.375:1 ratio, very low.

Weight at my last autox 2 weeks ago was 2293 LBS with full interior, all glass, all metal (original) body parts, no spare and nothing modified to make it lighter. I would like to find a way to stay at that weight or less with the full interior and add a cage for protection and stiff ness. 2100 LBS would be perfect but I do not think it is possible with the full interior.

I am running camber bushings on all 4 corners. With AZC heavy duty springs that lowered the car 1.25" and the bushings I got just over 2 deg of neg in the front and 1.5" in the rear. I could have gotten more in the rear but I kept the rear bushings turned out the max amount and the front (on the rear) turned a little less so I could get 1/8" of toe in on the rear wheels. So over all I run 1/8 toe out in the front 1/8" toe in in the rear and 2.25 neg in front and 1.5 neg in the rear. I just bought new (very crappy) street tires. The old tires were bald on the inside edges and to the tread bar on the outside. I got the crappy tires because the aligment eats up tires pretty fast (along with my driving style) but I works pretty good on the autox course considering I have springs that are too soft and very little chasis stiffining. I run Goodyear 23x9x15 cantilever r250 slicks with 1 less pound of air in the front (21 to 24 pounds, I vary the inflation amount with the air and track temps, even on a hot day the mornings start out in the 40's here in MT). The car stays fairly neutral with that set up.

I run from 21 to 25 depending on the temp. I have cantilever goodyears r250 compound (like the r25 hoosier), I do not know the type of tire you have so my pressure might not apply to you. When it is hot out (90+ and sunny) I run 24-25 or the tires get too warm and become greasy. I do not go below 21 even when the temps are cool because the sidewalls start to deform a little. It is a game to see if the tire will not overheat and not deform the sidewall. My best time have been in the 24 to 25 range on warm days. Below 24 on those days the time goes away a little. I use to run 22 -23 on the warm days and tried 25 just because and it worked well. Over 25 and they stop sticking as well. I usually run 1 pound less in the front than the back too, if the course is very tight. Open courses I run them even.

205/60/14 Yokohama ES100 or the same tire size in a 15" on a 15x7. The 15 is closer to the stock diameter.

I use Goodyear 23x9x15 with out coilovers or flares and I do not have a rubbing issue. I run 7" wheels with a -12 offset. The tires are small enough in diameter that they do not rub.

I have been using option A for 2.5 years now and have not had any problems and with the slicks the car stops very well. I did turn the rotors slightly blue once on a very long course with high speeds though, but they did not fade and they still work fine.

If you want a great suspension and brake set up buy the AZC brakes for the front and rear, the heavy duty springs and a set of Illumina struts, and replace all the bushings with some good ones. Get a very nice set of light weight wheels and some sticky tires. You will save a lot of money and have a set up that probably has the potential to handel better than you are capible of driving, and on the street you will never get to really use the race set up you are looking at to its full potential.

IMO the 240 is better (lighter). What are you doing with the car? Racing? Street only? A little of both? The suspension depends on what you are doing.

Do the koni's require shortning the strut tubes? You might look into that. I have Illumina's on a street/autox car and like them. I can tell a big difference between settings, 1 mushy, 5 too stiff. I race on 3 or 4 depending on conditions and 2 on the street. I run 180f and 200r springs. I have no experience with Knoi red's.

Very big diameter. You would need coilovers and probably a 235/45/17 not a 55.

Just tried the web site and it took me to a search engine not the web site, sorry I should have tried it before posting it.

http://www.jbracingtires.com I have never bought from these people but they have an add in the back of Sports Car mag. They clam to have all sizes of Goodyear slicks from full to 1/2 tread left.

Find a whel manufacturer like CCW or Kodiak Racing Wheels or Panasport (c8) or ect...and have some wheels made.

Offsets are measured in MM not inches. A 1/2" offset would be a 12 MM offset no matter wich direction it is measured + or -. I would go with a 0 offset or you could have problems clearing the suspension. A +12 (1/2") offset would be a 5" back space which would be too much with the stock suspension, if you have coilovers you should be fine. I have 7" wheels with a -12 offset (they extend out the same amount as an 8" wheel with a 0 offset) and the stock fenders on my car with out rubbing issued on the front or the rear.

I have a set I use for autoxing. They have held up fine with 2 seasons of racing with cantilever slicks and going over driveway transitions. one wheel was replaced be the tire shop that mounted the tires. They bent the lip of the whell in the mounting process, they seemed to think they were very soft wheels (not strong), so I would stay far away from curbs. As far as bumps in the road they are probably fine just do not go too low of a profile on the tire and do not go for the streached tire look in order to protect the wheel a little.