zguitar71

I know a couple of people who run them for autox and on the street (they never come off the car). They like them for the street but when the tread gets low look out for puddles (hydroplane). They usually get around 5-8k miles on them so they wear fast. They do not think they are very good autox tires but they are to lazy to change wheels before the race so they comprimise and use the RA-1's.

My series II has one as well (very similar to the series I car). The series III cars from mid `71 on could be the cutoff date not sure though.

Remember to not remove the nut completely until the spring is compressed or you could get hurt very bad. Loosening the nut is O.K. though just like was said earlier.

Courtesy Nissan and MSA and Precision Gear all sell them; Quaife makes a LSD that has both 10 and 12 mm holes. I do not think the Nismo LSD comes with 10mm holes any more, you will have to use bolt spacers (search there is plenty of info on them) if you have a 10mm ring gear.

Camber plates will not change the relation of the wheel spacing to the strut. When you move the strut in (to change the camber) the wheel will move with it, they move together as one unit. You will have to change the offset or the location of the spring perch. A spacer is probably the cheaper way to go, thin spacers (1/4" or so) probably cost less than 2 8" springs.

On the autox course the LSD is a must but the flywheel is not. I have both now but if I had to give up one it would be the flywheel. Without the LSD I spin the inside tire way too easily and that's using Goodyear racing slick in the stickiest compound made for the size I use (9x23x15 R250 compound). The flywheel makes the feel of the car better and helps match the rpm to the trans on down shifting better and decreases (slightly) the power loss to the wheels but in time gained (or actually lost) on the course I would guess the LSD would take away .5 to 1 second vs no LSD and the flywheel maby .01 seconds vs a heavier flywheel. So I say go with the LSD.

I am not sure what year the R32 is but I have one of the Arizona Zcar LSD diffs. I was told it was out of a late model Skyline with aprox 20-30K miles on it. It is an R200 with 4:38 gears and it bolted right into my `71 240 (replaced an R200 4:11 from a 200sx). Used the same axel flanges and all.

114.3mm divided by 25.4 = 4.5". To convert mm to inches divide by 25.4.

235's seam a bit big for a 6" rim. The difference in the widths are close enough I would go for the stickier tire. Yokohama makes the AVS ES100 in a 215/60/15 which ahas a 280 tread wear. I have seen people autocross with them and was impressed with the amount of grip from a cheaper tire. The other two tires are wider but I beat the ES100's would stick better for straight line acceleration and they cost the same as the other tires you have listed. They would fit the rim size you have better as well. I had Cooper Cobra's (which came on the car when I bought it and I hate them), they have a tread wear in the 400's which is close to the Michelin's. The problem with a high tread wear tire is the noise they produce when they break loose. If I start off from the line and spin the tires at all the tires howl very loudly, to the point I would get worried I'd attract any cops that could be near enough to hear me. I would go for the ES 100's or any other tire you see close in size that has a low tread wear number. Tread compound will do more for the traction of a tire than the size (compareable sizes that is).

Try Volk racing TE37's. They have them in 15x7 with a 0 offset and in the 4x114.3 pattern. They are pricey but only weigh 9.2 pounds.I have seen them on a few different sites for $308. Not cheap but not much more than Panasports, revolutions or other common classic z wheels (less than new Watanabe's) and they are lighter and stronger (forged). They come in white or bronze. On the cheaper side and just under 16 LBS (I think) are the Konig Rewinds in the correct bolt pattern and a o offset. They look like panasports only cost aroung $525 a set. I have seen them advertised on zcar.com in the classifieds under wheels. http://www.zcar.com/classifieds/index.php?method=showdetails&list=advertisement&rollid=20313&fromfromlist=classifiedscategory&fromfrommethod=showhtmllist&fromfromid=37&

82-83 ZX's have the close ratio 5 sp and an o.k. feel to them. They are not the shortest shift around but a short through could be made for one with out too much trouble. The trans will bolt right into your car. Yop will probably want to change out the rear diff too a better gear ratio. Go for a 3:90 or lower. I have a 4:11 and a 4:38. The 4:38 is a bit too low for highway use but the 4:11 and the 3:90 are great. The 3:90's are very common and can be found in the ZX's.

The diff I have came from a truck. All the R180 produced after `76 are of the 115mm variety. The last time I looked, the Nismo ones were not available but that was a long time ago, I think I will try again.

I could not find any info doing a search on this so I would like some help please. I have an R180 4:11 with the 115mm ring gear. The only LSD's I can find for the R180 is for the 110mm ring gear. Presision Gear is out of the 115mm with no idea when new ones will arrive and quaife said they wanted a minimum order of 10 which I most likely can not do. So does anyone know of or make ring gear spacers for R180's to fit a 110mm carrier to a 115mm ring gear? Thanks