johnc

240Zs do not use hub centric wheels and there's no advantage to going with hub centric on the car. Take out a set of calipers and measure a few 240Z front and rear hubs and you'll understand why I said that.

Well, you don't need the triple Webers to get the ignition system working. No known conversion kit. I suggest you buy a Pertronix or Crane trigger and put it in the distributor replacing the points system. Or, maybe someone else knows how to get this setup working. Also, use the search function because this question might have been asked and answered before.

This engine is back 4" and down 2". You'll have: 1. Exhaust header clearance issues with the driver's side footwell. 2. Oil pump/steering rack clearance issues. 3. Balancer/anti-roll abr clearance issues. EDIT: I had the oil pump and balancer clearance issues reversed. Fixed.

The Viper was geared for about 200mph top speed but it was difficult to accelerate without spinning the wheels. Erik was mildly annoyed when the rear end broke loose shifting into 6th at 185mph. The first run Erik ran all the way to the end and waited for Don to show up - the producers were not happy. For later runs Erik had to run next to the Turbinator until about 80 mph, then he was supposed to quickly accelerate to 165 mph (the top speed of the filming helicopter) and wait for Don to blow past him - which he did at 275+. Don and crew didn't want to run the Turbinator flat out for the show so the speeds the announcers stated were a little "optimistic." The worst thing Erik said was the dust kicked up by the jet exhaust when the Turbinator went by. His driving suit was filled with dirt at the end of each day and they could never get the interior of the Viper clean after their 3 days of filming. Don was a character.

http://www.rfcafe.com/miscellany/humor/calvins_dad_explains.htm

Although I'm not a LSR racing expert, I was at El Mirage when Erik Messley ran the Viper against Don Vesco's Turbinator for an episode of Extreme Machines (http://www.teamvesco.com/elmirage.htm). Traction was a huge limiting factor for the Viper and I understand for almost all wheel driven LSR cars.

I did not inhale! I did not have sex with that woman!

Belt drive CVT with a differential - a spool I think.

For the horsepower levels you're shooting for, ANY L6 block will work fine including the P30 2.4L block.

No, its not a Bugatti, its the BBR Special/Corrillion Pod Racer: I'm redoing the wing mounting and fixing some frame problems. Some specs: About 260hp from a 3 cylinder snowmobile engine. About 550 lbs. total weight. Top speed about 90 mph. 0 to 60 in 1.5 to 1.6 seconds. Lateral acceleration above 3gs. It won a Road and Track skid pad test back int he late 1990s.

Ultimately there's an upper limit to anything. For the Nissan L6, its around 8.5K rpm. On the ROD the crank was a diesel crank lightened by 17 lbs, knife edged, nitirded, and striaghtened to within .0001". It had Carillo rods, JE forged pistons, an ATI Super Damper, and a QM 5.5" dual disk clutch. That bottom end is now in a vintage racing 240Z that runs with VARA and HSR West.

Normal (linear) shock valving increases its resistance to motion in at a linear rate based on shaft speed. The faster the shaft moves the more resistant the linear valving is to that movement. Digressive shock valving reduces the rate of increase to resistance to movement at some pre-determined shaft speed (sometimes called the "knee point"). Digressive valving on the compression side allows the shock to be more compliant over bumps yet retain good control of body movments. Disgressive valving on the rebound side allows the spring to quickly return to its nominal length reducing the tendency for the spring to pack down over a series of bumps. Progressive shock valving used to be dominant in off road racing but the racers ahve learned the benfits of digressive valving so shock technology for off road racing has moved away from progressive valving rates.

Normal (linear) shock valving increases its resistance to motion in at a linear rate based on shaft speed. The faster the shaft moves the more resistant the linear valving is to that movement. Digressive shock valving reduces the rate of increase to resistance to movement at some pre-determined shaft speed (sometimes called the "knee point"). Digressive valving on the compression side allows the shock to be more compliant over bumps yet retain good control of body movments. Disgressive valving on the rebound side allows the spring to quickly return to its nominal length reducing the tendency for the spring to pack down over a series of bumps. Progressive shock valving used to be dominant in off road racing but the racers ahve learned the benfits of digressive valving so shock technology for off road racing has moved away from progressive valving rates.

I always find it funny when Turbo guys worry about things like this. A properly welded aluminum container can hold 200+ psi. Heck, even an empty liter bottle of Pepsi can hold 120 psi. I regularly pressure test any of my welded containers and AN lines to 100 psi. The silicon hoses will blow off before a propery designed and welded intake manifold will fail. You can also weld bung and a blow off plug on the intake manifold so that any huge pressure spikes blow the plug out before losing a hose.

I fixed your little red dots. We don't really use that rating system here on this site but sometimes people figure out how to "adjust" them. Periodically I piss off one or more of the other Admins and then my little dots go all red for a couple weeks. And if a mod or admin got our your case about something, it was probably deserved at the time. You're still on the site so your complaint and the mod's response couldn't have been that bad.

The 1437 is the 8610-1437. It might have been mis-typed somewhere above (most likely by me). The two Koni inserts that concern us Z guys are the 8610-1437RACE single adjustable and the 8611-1259 double.

The 1437 is the 8610-1437. It might have been mis-typed somewhere above (most likely by me). The two Koni inserts that concern us Z guys are the 8610-1437RACE single adjustable and the 8611-1259 double.

No bottom end problems but I rarely went beyond 7,500 rpm with the engine. I have an engine dyno chart but its an Excel spreadsheet that I typed up from a hard copy Sunbelt gave me.

Nope, front edge lip creates turbulence just like the air behind a car with a small spoiler. Turbulence is low pressure.

Having put a Cosmo 20B in an RX7 I can give you guys the following info: 1. 20B that mere mortals like us can buy are all twin turbos and are hooked up to a 4 speed auto. 2. Sourcing a flywheel, clutch, throwout bearing, etc. isn't hard. 3. A stock RX7 5 speed will bolt up to the 20B. 4. The 20B dressed weighs about 420 lbs not including flywheel. 5. Its long and has a double sump oil pan. 6. Its wide with the turbos installed. 7. Its also pretty tall with the factory intake. 8. I think stock they made 300hp.

Probably sitting in our wheelchairs, drinking Ensure, and typing away on HybridZ.com bragging about how fast we were - while the Z project in our garage is 90% done (and has been that way for 20 - 30 years).

Rule number 1: Air flows from a high pressure area to a low pressure area. Rule number 2: Air needs an entrance, a path, and an exit for the flow to occur between high and low pressure. Rule number 3: Air will always take the path of least resistance to flow from a high to a low pressure area. The front of a car and the area in front of a windshied are both high pressure. Trying to flow air between the two won't work very well because it relies on the pressure differential between two (relatively) high pressures. Its better to look for low pressure areas to direct the air entering the radiator: Front wheel wells. Front part of the hood. Underneath the car. Its very important to make sure the air coming in the front of the car has to flow through the radiator. Make sure the radiator is completely sealed, ducted to the incoming airflow. Any gaps around the raditor allows air to escape. Its very important to make sure the air exiting the radiator has a low pressure are to go to and a nice path to follow. The engine compartment itself is considered a high pressure area because of the incoming air from the radiator. Adding additional pressure from an unshrouded cowl scoop makes things worse. Some things you can do: Get rid of the scoop. Open up the inner fenders so that air can flow into the front wheel wells. Shorten any belly pans. Cut a hole in the hood behind the radiator and put a small lip on the front edge of the hole.

Engine 1 Block: L28 - N42 Head: N42 Camshaft: Sunbelt 310 duration, 564/534 lift Redline: 7,900 Compression: 13.6 to 1 Fuel System: Motec M48 Power: 320 @ 6,800 rpm Torque: 275 @ 5,600 rpm Engine 2 Block: L28 - F54 Head: P79 Camshaft: stock Redline: 6,500 Compression: 9.0 to 1 Fuel System: SUs Power: a little Torque: some

Whatever I have a few bottle of. Sometimes its Mobil 1 10W/30 or 15W/50, sometimes its straight Valvoline 30W, sometimes it Chevron Delo 10W/40. On an easy driven street L6 its not that important. On my race engine I ran Redline 20W/50.

I wouldn't use a gravel road as a test for brake balance. Take it out on a nice, straight, traffic free road with wide shoulders and slam the brakes on a 30 mph. Get ready to catch it if the rear steps out.