johnc

I think the plating was .083" 4130. There was no need to reinforce the back side of the firewall because the firewall mount spans the bottom (see the line of spot welds on the firewall) and the top cowl panels. The firewall mount is basically the base of a triangle.

Nicely done.

Figured it out. There's an album in my member gallery called Fabrication. Pictures are there. FYI... I cannot take credit for creating those strut mounts. Bill Savage did the work back in 2000.

I'm here. I have more pictures that I will load into the gallery on this site, once I figure out how to do it.

I've talked with Lance over the phone a few times. Seems like a good guy to me. I can do basic rust repair and panel replacement but I'm not a body man or a painter. The panels will be replaced and fixed properly but they will need the skills of a body man to make them straight.

I just finished bending and fitting the main hoop and the halo bar in this 1982 Toyota Corolla I'm working on. Unfortunately the halo bar is about 1" narrower then necesary at the front and a little too pointy for the Toyota windshield header. This is a low buck quickie 6 point cage so I used my 240Z templates. Worked well for the main hoop, not so well for the halo bar. I'll post pictures later. I need to drink some water and get back at it.

The last time I looked at the FIA rules for a tarmac car it required an "X" brace in the main hoop rear braces. SCCA requires a diagonal brace in the main hoop. I've heard through the grapevine that FIA is now also requiring a diagonal brace in the main hoop in addition to the "X" brace in the rear braces. I don't know if that's true or not. I put diagonal braces in the main hoops of all the cages/bars I build.

It wasn't a waste of time. The article had some good information in it.

That's funny! Both processes have been around for at least 60 years. Modern? Try Laser, Friction Stir, and Explosive welding. Also, throwing quotes out of various welding articles on the Internet just confuses the issue. We are talking about a motorsports application and NHRA has the most experience with 4130 chassis and cages. The Lincoln Electric article linked above is quoted almost verbatim in the NHRA approved TIG welding process for 4130. Some fabricators stress relive as an extra step but its not really necessary.

I'll be doing a roll cage in a car this week and I have to make sure there's head clearance. I'm going to do a Halo bar that bends up from the main hoop and is tight on the roof and the A-pillars. I'll post pictures after I figure it out and put it together. BTW... I agree with Katman and would be very concerned about driving that 240Z linked on classiczcars.com.

My will say that's exactly what's wrong with me! Good luck in college, we'll be here when you're done.

Lots of work with a 36 grit flap and/or drum sander on the inside of the strut tube will make the 8611 fit. When I'm impatient, I take a 1" OD carbide bit and chatter away...

Lots of work with a 36 grit flap and/or drum sander on the inside of the strut tube will make the 8611 fit. When I'm impatient, I take a 1" OD carbide bit and chatter away...

Put the tools down and walk away from the car. Get a repair manual for a Datsun 240Z from Kragen, Pep Boys, NAPA, Borders Books, or order it from Amazon here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0856962066/sr=8-6/qid=1156543492/ref=sr_1_6/103-7724802-7681402?ie=UTF8 You desperately need it.

Keep me all red! On this board I would rather be feared then respected...

I was wondering where I left that doob...

Like when welding behind a tube using a mirror to see the bead and where to dip the filler?

Being in Sweden, I think that is a very difficult thing to do.

If this is your first cage and/or the first cage you'll be TIG welding, I would use DOM instead of CroMo. DOM is more tolerant of too much heat.

That'll be $50.