johnc

Notice the lack of springs on the struts in the photos? Unfortunately the first time I tried lifting the tire up into the cut wheel well the Koni 8611 compression damping was on max firm. Fixed that real quick!

Kodiak 18 x 10s. 285/30-18 Kumho V710s. BTW... if anyone is interested, I am a Kodiak dealer since I have purchased at least 5 sets from them.

I don't think those things inside the truck have anything to do with the truck's suspension. Probably some Hollywood prop.

Here's the 1/4 panel and wheel before I started cutting. Looking at the marked lines again I probably only cut up between 4.5 and 5", not the 6" I stated above. Sorry about the confusion. And here's what it looked like after and this measurement is probably why 6" was stuck in my head. I wanted to get at least 6" of total wheel travel. The 1/4 panels on this car were pretty rough so it was hard to get a nice looking opening, but once the body shop gets things straightened up I can install the flares and cover up things. Plus, its a race car...

If you look in the wheel well you'll see where the inner sheetmetal is horizontal. I cut the outer so that the inner comes out horizontally and meets the out fender. I don't cut the fonts up 6". I'll post some pictures of what I did recently.

HybridZ itself (the "entity" known as HybridZ) has no spare change. All the money it receives from the members goes into deferring the costs Dan bears - hardware, software, bandwidth, etc. So when you guys say, "HybridZ should sponsor X", what HybridZ are you referring to? 1. The entity known as HybridZ. 2. The Administrative staff of the entity known as HybridZ. 3. SuperDan. 4. The community of members gathered at a web site with the URL: http://www.hybridz.org 5. something else...

I spray the inside of tubes, replacement panels, etc. with 3M Weld- Thru Coating part number 051131-05913.

Heh... Those picture are from the first installation of the flares, when he paid the body shop to cut them out (who ignored my instructions). They had to be redone when he cut large gashes in his tires at the WSIR event.

That should give you a clue... My 240Z varied in whp numbers by 15 hp between Superior and DRS within the same week while mutiple engine dyno runs over 2 years were within 2 hp.

Looking at the pictures I'm worried that, maybe, you didn't cut high enough. It looks like you only have about 2" of bump travel before the tire hits the wheel well. I've seen a couple ZG flares jobs where that problem cropped up after everything was done. Don't be afraid to take out a good deal of metal. When I did my car, Amir's, and Art's I cut 6" up into the rear wheel wells. When the car's were at static ride height they all had at least 3" of wheel bump travel before contacting anything. Now, these were track only cars running 275 and 285 width tires, so maybe a street car with narrow tires and riding a little higher won't need as much metal removed.

After talking with Frank - he moves fast - I estimate a 280ZX carbon fiber hood (a real CF hood) primered would be about $675. A 280ZX fiberglass hood primered would be about $330. A 280ZX fiberglass hood with a layer of CF on top and a clear coat would be about $480. These estimated prices are for an OEM style hood without the turbo NACA duct or vent.

I'm no theoretician. My thinking would be velocity, velocity, velocity. The turbo exhaust header needs to move the exhaust gasses as fast as possible in as short a distance as practical. Tubing size should match port size, as few bends as space allows, equal lengths, shallow merge collector, etc. Everything after the turbo should be as big and open as possible.

Racing and thongs don't go together. The whole "pucker factor" thing takes on a new and painful meaning.

I get asked to make a CF 280ZX hood about once every 3 months. I always say that if they get a few more guys in on the deal (cash talks, BS walks) and they can provide me with a perfect hood, I'll risk the $1,000 it takes to make proper mold. Until then, find someome that can do a splash mold and have them build a couple hoods.

Looking at the marks on the pistons it appears that the intake valves hit each piston exactly once. My guess is that the engine was overevved.

Don't worry about it.

We're not enforcing trademarks or making significant amounts of money selling HybridZ logo'd merchandise. Tim had a run of stickers and clothing made due to demand from the members. If you want to make a sticker or a shirt or a hat for yourself because we have nothing available, go for it. That doesn't mean you can make a bunch and them sell them yourself, making a little money on the deal.

You guy should build a blow out plug in your intake. A mounting boss for a freeze plug would probably work great.

So true. Street guys who lie overstate their horsepower. Racers who lie (pretty much all of them) understate their horsepower. That usually leaves street guys scratching their heads and wondering how they got beat by a car making a lot less horsepower.

The amount of caster makes static camber less of a concern, which is nice because there is no camber adjustment. About the best I can do while retainining the stock suspension arms and upright is offset bushings. I'm not very concerned about the forward weight bias because the cross weights are good. I should be able to get more weight in the back once I can start adjusting the ride height and move things around a bit. I really, really want do build a custom Compression Rod (arm) and Transverse Link (LCA) in front. I should be able to do a lot of things with the front camber and roll center.

I'm going to update information about my 2006 base model 350Z in this thread as I develop the chassis. CORNER WEIGHTS 7-12-2006 - 35 psi tire pressures, 40 lbs of fuel, no spare, no jack, no tools, no modifications. Without Driver Total: 3,217 lbs. Front: 1,792 lbs. - 55.7% Rear: 1,425 lbs. - 44.3% Left: 1,583 lbs. - 49.2% Right: 1,634 lbs.- 50.8% Cross (RF/LR): 1,598 lbs. - 49.7% LF: 889 lbs. RF: 903 lbs. LR: 694 lbs. RR: 730 lbs. With Driver Total: 3,432 lbs. Front: 1,890 lbs. - 55.1% Rear: 1,542 lbs. - 44.9% Left: 1,741 lbs. - 50.7% Right: 1,691 lbs.- 49.3% Cross (RF/LR): 1,697 lbs. - 49.5% LF: 966 lbs. RF: 924 lbs. LR: 775 lbs. RR: 767 lbs. ALIGNMENT These are the factory settings as delivered. Front Camber LF: 1.0- Camber RF: 1.0- Caster LF: 9+ SAI: 6.0 Caster RF: 9.2+ SAI: 6.2 Total Toe: 1/32" in Rear Camber LR: 1.1- Camber RR: 1.1- Total Toe: 1/16" in

No. You are confusing the 4 digit steel SAE grading system with the 3 digit AISI grading system used for stainless. 304 stainless has the following composition: Carbon .08 Mn 2.00 Si 1.00 Cr 18.0 - 20.0 Ni 8.0 - 15.0 P .05 S .03 321 stainless has the following composition: Carbon .08 Mn 2.00 Si 1.00 Cr 17.0 - 19.0 Ni 8.0 - 12.0 P .05 S .03 Ti .40 - 1.00 There are low carbon (L), free machining (F), Normalized (N), and additional suffixes added to the AISI 3 digit number (i.e. 303Se is AISI 303 stainless steel with Selenium added). BTW... I was mistaken when I said 321 had Columbium, it has Titanium added as a stabilizer. 347 has Columbium and Tantalum added.

Maybe I'm mistaken, but when the reaction disk fell out of the boosters on two of my 240Zs the pedal feel while running made for a horribly grabby brake pedal. Inital bite was very abrupt. Did Dave at AZC recommend the master/caliper combination that you are using?

Why do you need to speed up the cool down process?

Celica by far.