johnc

Well... I haven't seen one of Don's modified pedal boxes but a couple benefits of spending more money: 1. You don't have to R&R the pedal box. 2. If the MCs are mounted inside the interior then maintenance and swapping out the MCs is a lot easier. 3. Assuming 2 above, plumbing will be easier. 4. If I have the part on the shelf you don't have the turn around time to get the mod done. 5. Your wallet will be lighter so you'll have more of a spring in your step.

No for sure number yet. I need to see how much its going to cost me to get the parts laser or water jet cut. It will be made out of 4130 and there's also a rod and clevis that connects to the stock brake pedal. I'm also going to include the Tilton balance bar setup. It will be more expensive then what Don charges to modify the stock pedal box.

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/brakebiasandperformance.htm

Making these is on the "to do" list. I've got the cowl hoods done and the brake mc brackets are next. Probably end of summer.

I spent a lot of time trying to figure out how to make the floor and hanger mount Tilton pedal assembly work in a 240. Finally gave up and built a bracket/balance bar setup to mount Tilton MCs. I have blueprints for it and plan on doing a production run of 10 someday.

FYI... Here in the US pretty much all R180 cases made after 1975 have a big "K" on the top of the case. Non of those have the four pinion diffs.

No, that's an unintended side affect of the Penske setup I had. Some of the stiffer rebound settings would slow the droop of the inside front wheel as weight transferred back under acceleration from the corner apex on tighter corners. On longer corners the inside front wheel would still be on the ground.

Like road racers, top contending drag racers are using shocks as their primary tuning tool. Save your money and buy the absolute best adjustable shocks you can afford. I might also have a source for some Z specific drag shocks.

Regarding material choice: I would look for an aluminum alloy that is easy to machine, has a tensile strength around 50ksi., a yield strength around 40ksi. and good fatigue resistance. In the US, that material is 2024. 2017 would also be a good choice. 2017 also has better corrosion resistance then 2024 which has to be anodized or clad if in an industrial or marine environment.

I completely replumbed the ROD using AN fittings. For a race car I strongly recommend this change. It makes working on and modifying the brake system much easier. I also completely plumbed Amir's SR20DET 260Z the same way. You do need a special single flare tool and the right kind (with tapered rollers) is expensive.

On the Rusty Old Datsun we would always see higher outside rear tire temps even with some nice triple adjustable Penskes. A combination of a Quaife diff, good stick, and lots of horsepower tended to use up the rear tires before the fronts. It was easy to overheat the rears and ruin the session. The car liked to come off corners a little bit tail out (which was pretty easy to overdo) with the inside front wheel off the ground. We did reduce the front anti-roll bar diameter to 23mm and the rear anti-roll bar was either 17 or 18mm depending on what we thought the track needed. Spring rates were 275 to 300 front and 300 to 350 rear again depending on what we though was best for the track. The pressure in the shock cans was adjusted from 175 to 210 and most of the shock settings were fairly close to full soft. It was rare to turn the settings past halfway just because the tracks out here are very bumpy.

As I've said before, if you get out of shape half way down the track you'll be wishing that front bar was still on the car. I wouldn't run a rear bar on a drag car.

Group Capt. Lionel Mandrake: Colonel, Colonel, I must know what you think has been going on here. Col. "Bat" Guano: You wanna know what I think? Group Capt. Lionel Mandrake: Yes! Col. "Bat" Guano: I think you're some kind of deviated prevert. I think general Ripper found out about your prevertion, and you were organizing some kind of mutiny of preverts.

Considering that 7075-T651 has a tensile strength on par with annealed 4130 Cro Moly steel I don't think you will have any issues with the strength of what you're building. Cost might be an issue, but not strength.

If you purchase a good merge collector similar to what's in these two pictures you won't see any flow reductions in the intercooler piping. In fact, you might actually see some improvements in flow if some calculations are done on collector length and cone shape.

I just knew Rick would be confused, considering he's got big flares and a big engine...

Exhaust. And stay away from crimp bends. They typically drop flow about 15% in the best case. I've done a couple turbo exhaust and a few NA exhausts for customers and ALL of them were very, very happy with the results compared to the crimp bent systems they had before.

And I disagree with the R180 is better opinion. If you swap in good LSD (Nissan Motorsports, Quaife, Torsen) the R180 is plenty strong. I ran 320hp and 275 ft. lbs. of torque through an R180 on road race tracks across the west for almost 3 years. Only problem I had was heat. A R200 adds 35 lbs. (by my scales) to the car and has a negative affect on the driver's side halfshaft angles. Its a cheap and easy way to get a 3.90 gear but, other then that, its really only of value for hard drag race launches where the car is making over 300 ft. lbs. of torque.

Time for some Freudian analysis of this whole flare thing... According to Freud, the very act of entering into civilized society entails the repression of various archaic, primitive desires (like flares on a car.) Each person's psychosexual development includes the surpassing of previous "love-objects" or "object-cathexes" that are tied to earlier sexual phases (the oral phase, the anal-sadistic phase, etc.); however, even well-adjusted individuals still betray the insistent force of those earlier desires through dreams, literature, "Freudian slips", or larger and larger flares on their otherwise adequate vehicles; hence the terms, "return of the repressed" or "racer wannabe." In less well-adjusted individuals, who remain fixated on earlier libido objects or who are driven to abnormal reaction-formations or substitute-formations, two possibilities exist: 1) perversion, in which case the individual completely accepts and pursues his or her desire for alternative sexual objects and situations (sodomists, sado-masochists, etc.) buy chopping up a completely innocent and virgin like vehicles; or 2) neurosis, in which case the same prohibited desires may still be functioning but some repression is forcing the "repudiated libidinal trends" to get "their way by certain roundabout paths, though not, it is true, without taking the objection into account by submitting to some distortions and mitigations" (meaning, big powerful engines and large bulging flares.)

Check in the back of most any car magazine and look for one of those wheel straightening places, They might do it.

One big issue is the thickness and strength of the concrete floor you're mounting the lift on. For a two post lift Rotary specifies at least 4.75" inches thick of 3,000 psi concrete. Here in California the state requirements are 6" thick. I'm getting a two post, 10,000lb, asymetric Rotary installed in my shop but the floor is only 3.5 to 4.5" thick. I have to cut the floor out and put pads in to install the lift.

I don't think Hat's post was an accusatory one. I think he was stating an odd fact that SR240Z clarified. Continue posting.

Keeping soaking it with penetrant (3M, Kriol, etc.) Try drilling a hole in the bottom of the strut tube and soak it from there. Expect to soak it for a week or two. Then, using a big pin punch, try punching the shock out of the strut from the bottom through the hole you drilled. An Air Hammer with a long pin also works miracles. If that doesn't work, heat the strut tube with a torch and then try punching it out from the bottom. And, if all of that fails, you can bring it to my shop and I promise I'll get them out!

There's a slight misperception regarding spring rates in the statment above. While sprung weight does play into the selection of spring rate, its by no means the most important factor. Ride and roll control are the final determinant in the selection of spring rate.

http://www.mudvillegazette.com/archives/000027.html Mom & Dad, Well if you are reading this, then things didn't go well for me over in Iraq. I'm sorry for the pain that I have caused you because of this. Please do not be upset with the Marine Corps, the military, the government, or the President. It was my choice to go into the military. The President and my higher commanders were just doing what they thought was best. Realize that I died doing something that I truly love, and for a purpose greater than myself. There is a paragraph that I read from time to time when I lose focus. "War is an ugly thing, but not the ugliest of things. The decayed and degraded state of moral and patriotic feeling which thinks that nothing is worth war is much worse. The person who has nothing for which he is willing to fight, nothing which is more important than his own personal safety, is a miserable creature and has no chance of being free unless made and kept so by the exertions of better men than himself." - John Stewart Mill Now there is a little Marine Corps bravado in there, but I do believe in the basic premise. I want you to know that I could not have asked for better parents, or a better family. ..... I'll never forget that one of my friends in elementary school said that if he could trade places with one person, he'd trade places with me because of my parents and home life. I truly feel that I've had a blessed life thanks to you two. Please give my love to Alyse & Ryan, Kari & Matt & the girls, Chris & Brandy, and everyone else in the family. All my love, Ryan Ryan Beaupre, 30, of Bloomington, Ill., was killed March 20, 2003 in a helicopter crash in Kuwait. http://www.au.af.mil/au/awc/awcgate/au-24/au24-352mac.htm