johnc

Here's a quick table that shows why its not a good idea: Firing Order, Degree of Rotation 1 0 5 120 3 240 6 360 2 480 4 600 1 720 (0) 5 840 (120) 3 960 (240) 6 1080 (360) 2 1200 (480) 4 1320 (600) 1 1440 (720) 3-4 Intake charge every 360deg (middle SU carb) 1-2 Intake charge 480 deg, then 240deg (front SU carb) 5-6 Intake charge 240 deg, then 480deg (rear SU carb)

Just remember the L6 firing order: 1 5 3 6 2 4 and you'll understand why triple SUs won't work unless they are mounted on a plenum.

No, increasing track front and rear gives you benefits 1, 3, and 4. Increasing front track a greater amount then the rear gives you 2. Assuming you've done all the other things necessary to improve the handling of your Z, then yes. Track width changes that we are talking about here are a fine tuning tool. If you haven't already got the basics done, track width changes won't be noticeable. He's a street guy. Remember, "Street is Slow!" You don't need massive changes to see an improvement when driving the car at 10/10ths.

The sticker is worth 100hp but it will cost an extra $5,000 and you won't see the horsepower for a couple years.

OK, let's get back to basics... In steady-state cornering track width and center of gravity height determines total lateral load transfer. Increasing track width reduces the load transfer which improves lateral acceleration capability. So: 1. Corner turn in is improved because load transfer is reduced and loads are more evenly distributed. The tires can produce more force to quicken turn in. 2. Since load transfer is decreased this allows more of the total roll resistance to be taken on the non-driving end of the car which reduces inside wheel lift. This gives more equal loads on the driving wheels for better acceleration off the corner (this is why most smart ITS 240Z racers run a wider front track then rear). This is also why some folks have trouble making a Quaife diff work in a 240Z. Too much rear roll stiffness. 3. Increasing track improves braking in turns (trail braking) by increasing the total lateral acceleration capability. 4. Increasing track width improved rough road cornering because lateral laod transfer gives a little more bump travel in the suspension before hitting the bump stops. Scrub radius problems can be reduced through other means. Increasing track, especially the front, on a 240Z is well worth any sacrifice in scrub radius.

The 2.8L with the stock FI can make comparable horsepower (now that the ECU's are free) and more torque then the 2.4L in ITS trim. But, the 300lb weight penalty for thr 280Z makes them uncompetitive.

To get a signoff on your permit you just need to follow the rules, start the race, race safely, and finish.

Yes, for steering and handling only.

Make sure the springs you buy are really what they say they are. Hypercoils have the actual, tested spring rate engraved into the flattened part of the spring at the top. I've seen cheap 2.5" OD springs powder coated blue sold as Hypercoils.

Once a driver completes an approved SCCA school, he is given a Novice Permit. Now he has to safely and successfully complete two races to get his Novice Permit signed off and then he can apply for a Regional racing license. In "I Was Seventh's" situation, the grid person made a mistake and gridded the driver 6th instead of 7th. The driver tried to correct the situation by waving his hand around inside the car and pointing when the Grid Marshall gave him the signal to go. To almost any Grid Marshall in the world, that's a signal saying, "I'm having problems, let the other guy go." The Grid Marshall did exactly what she was supposed to do. The driver should have just gone when the Grid Marshall signalled and then worked it our with the event officials after the race was over. Instead, he passed, under a standing full course double yellow, 63 cars! Regardless of the initial gridding problem, passing just 1 car under a yellow is grounds for some kind of penalty. When you're a Novice trying to get one of two Chief Steward's signatures on your permit, passing 63 cars on the pace lap is one of the all time stupidest things to do.

http://www.specmiatavideos.com/compliations.htm and then click on the video "I Was Seventh." This is really funny. Some background for non-road racers: Before a race your are gridded in the pits in qualifying order. Sometimes the grid workers make a mistake regarding order and you have a few minutes to talk with a grid worker and get it fixed if you arrive to the grid early enough. If you're late to grid, tough luck. When the grid worker signals you to go, you have to go or wait for everyone behind you. They will not hold things up becuase you're not ready (or confused in this case). The subject of this video (a rookie at his first race, trying to get a signoff) was gridded incorrectly and chose to take matters into his own hands by passing 63 cars on the pace lap. Needless to say, he didn't get his signoff.

BTW... you're still in the "S Chassis" thing. The 240Z is an S30.

BTW... with my comment above I didn't mean to imply driving the car on the street/ autox/track/drag strip wouldn't be fun. It would be a hoot! Even a box stock 240Z on a race track is an absolute blast. Its not the fastest way around the track but you'll be smiling and laughing the whole way.

Building a good track/autocross/street/drag racing car is basically impossible. The car will not be good at any of these uses when compared with a car built for a single use. If you're lucky, you're somewhat uncomfortable street car will be a mid-pack track day car, a back of the class understeery autocross car, and a resonable drag car with launch and traction issues.

No, I was mistaken. I thought you were building a NA engine.

Not enough for what?

Having run a 5.5" double disc clutch I can tell you the following: 1. They are noisy and rattle when disengaged. 2. They require greater clamping force from the pressure plate. 3. They require an annular release mechanism (forget the clutch fork). 4. They make installing the transmisison a bitch. Just stacking stock clutches on a common splined shaft with a stock pressure plate will not increase torque capacity. It will most likely decrease it by a significant amount and lead to rapid wear of the transmission synchronizers due to the increased MOI. Multi-disc clutches are a race only item unless you're adding significant electronic control a la Ferrari.

Are you talking about building an 11" diameter double disc clutch? Why?

That will make it much more difficult to reach your goal of 12s in the 1/4. A number of folks run 10:1 on pump gas with no detonation problems and if you're running a well mapped EMS then 10.5 or 11:1 is possible.

Ouch! Back in my raquetball days I would do that once or twice a year. Gave up the sport after the fourth time...

Having just got married I just can't image the loss you feel. Our families prayers are with you and your partner.

http://www.dontlaugh.org/ Don't laugh! I said, don't laugh!

Story here: http://www.froggyruminations.blogspot.com/ My nephew is a Navy Seal and, luckily, was not invloved in the operation. He sometimes sends my sister a short e-mail and a photo. Here's the latest:

Search, search, search. The DOHC, RB, Mercedes, KA, head swap discussion has been done before...

I ran 16" x 10" wheels and had them built with a 5.5" backspace. I used different thickness spacers (1/8" rear and 1/8" through 1/2" front) to tune turn in and handling for specific tracks. A wider front track (compared to the rear) will help the car turn in and reduce understeer.