johnc

You betcha! Its a test. Doubtful. They would get my reputation along with the user name and nobody wants that!

Let's say you have a car that has a 55/45 weight distribution and you can get it to 50/50 by hanging the battery, fuel tank, etc. out behind the rear axle, thereby increasing its polar moment (or yaw inertia). Is that change a good idea?

Shockproof is unnecessary in a diff. It was designed for dog box racing transmissions. Regular 75W-90 Redline gear oil is perfect for the diff. I think it already includes the friction modified if you're running a clutch pack LSD.

I'm just repeating what Les said, "Early." I didn't look at the engine and I'm not an RB guy anyway so I wouldn't know an early from a late.

What Bill said. 99% of the problems I've seen with doors is a structural problem with the door itself.

Having used a double behind my 320 L6, I suggest going with a triple if you're going to drive it on the street. What's the clutch diameter?

I suggest you forget about the seals. None seem to work and you eventually have to remove the covers and clean inside. I ran just the clear covers with no seals and would remove the covers when washing and waxing the car. Personally, I think the covers look better without the seals.

Just an FYI... I was down at Les' Classic Datsun and he has an early RB egine that he wants to sell. You can get the contact info at: http://www.classicdatsun.com

Outside the window weather forecast 2... Very light rain just starting. Drove down to Vista and back and there are light showers in Vista, Oceanside, SJC, and Mission Viejo.

Seems like just last year we were wishing you a Happy Birthday...

Outside the window weather forecast: Some high haze and clouds, a few clouds lower down, cool, slight breeze. Doesn't feel like rain.

From: http://blastradius.blogspot.com/2005/04/world-of-pain.html

Walk around all you want. When you get there at 6:00am you'll be in a line of cars waiting to get in. I think MSA starts letting the cars onto Collins Ave around 7:00am.

For the ultimate in energy recovery... The Pratt and Whitney Wasp Major R4360VDT engine had a supercharger that fed the intake side of two turbochargers and the exhaust that exitted the turbo chargers was routed to the compressor section of a turbo jet engine. It never went into production (it was designed for the B36J) because of cooling issues and the repalcement of the B36 with the B52. http://www.pratt-whitney.com/about_history_classic_r4360.asp

This may not help at all, but... In my LT1 Corvette the PO had replaced the battery with a generic side and top post style. Well, the postive top post had a cheap plastic cover and it was rubbing on a frame bracket. Yesterday the car starting exhibiting the exact symptoms you describe below. Once I figured out the problem and replaced the battery with the correct one, problems went away. I wouldn't immediately blame Mr. Squirt. Check power and grounds first.

Nice part!

Get the stock Nissan Turbo flywheel bolts. Just tell the Nissan parts guy you need the flywheel bolts for a 1982 or 1983 280ZX Turbo manual.

Either go all solid (engine and trans mounts) or all rubber/poly. A mixture of the solid and flex will start bending and breaking things. A classic example is putting a solid front diff mount in and leaving the moustache bar bushings rubber. The diff still torques and slowly tears apart the front diff crossmember. Similar things happen when the engine mounts are left flexible and the trans is mounted solid. You can make solid engine mounts out of properly sized aluminum blocks. Make them about 1/16" thinner then the stock rubber mount thickness then drill and install threaded steel inserts for the mounting bolts. You should also box the stock mount supports on the crossmember. Now, from this point forward, you're going to have to constantly check fasteners on the car to make sure they are not vibrating loose.

Just get me in early on the IPO. My days as a VC are done.

All as a result of a highly modified 35lb crank, low pressure valve springs, 2.5lb flyweel/flexplate, and a Quartermaster 5.5" OD double disk clutch. The intake was just along for the ride.

Nope, nothing that special. I ran a C&R double pass radiator and the outlets were on the driver's side of the radiator. I had it made that way on purpose so the oil heat exchanger was on the passenger side and the oil lines would be as short as possible. I had to fab a long aluminum tube for the bottom outlet to get it back over to the water pump inlet.

You should always run some kind of bump stop. Sometimes you need to shorten it a bit but a cushion is a good thing for those times when a bump in the road surprises you (or you go off the track).

On a street car with good urethane bump stops (the ones that go around the shock shaft) you'll be fine with 3" of bump travel between the stop and the top of the strut housing.

Updates on the betaMotorsports Cowl Hood can now be found here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=535956#post535956 Its not appropriate to continue the discussion in this thread when talking spcifically about our products.

This is the stuff Alex if you want to bring your bedroom toolkit into the 21st century... http://www.bio-medical.com/product_info.cfm?inventory__imodel=CG04