johnc

You can still buy 100 octane unleaded at some Unocal stations.

The most significant change is that it affects the camber curve as the suspension moves in bump. It tends to flatten the curve so the normal gain from stock ride height (about 1/2 of a degree) gets reduced to less then a 1/4 degree (assuming a 25mm spacer). But that drawback is more then offset because without the spacer properly locating the control arms you would get a camber loss as the suspension moves in bump.

This is the best shot I have of the ZGs on the ROD: I installed threaded aluminum inserts in the sheet metal and used 1/4 x 20 x 1/2 stainless button head screws and washers to hold the flares to the panel. I also used black VW fender welding between the flares and the body to make the fit look a lot better.

Here are two pictures of the spoiler I built for the ROD. Its height and rake are direct copies of the spoiler C&D fabbed up for their Project Omega Z in 1973. This design gave the best combination of downforce and low drag of the 3 they tested.

And cook you too. I don't like eating raw, dead, noobs.

Car and Driver on had some front and rear spoiler downforce and drag data on a 240Z as part of their Project Omega series on the early 1970s. I've got the article at home somewhere and I used it to design the rear spolier I last ran on the ROD.

According to my handy-dandy EMJ Materials Reference, 6061T651 aluminum tubing in 2.5" OD .065" wall weighs .5847 pounds per foot and 20ga mild steel tuding in the same OD is .8917 pounds per foot. You save .307 pounds per foot using aluminum tubing.

That would be an astounding amount of rust inside that tube! I think a squirt of WD40 or something similar would be more then enough to prevent any significant rust accumulation over years of use. I would be more worried that a poor paint job inside the tube would start flaking off.

OK, call me stupid, but why would you need to paint the inside of the IC tubing? I know some of the big chromed steel IC tubing used on diesel trucks is just bare steel on the inside. I also recently helped re-install the IC tubing on a Dodge 2500 turbo diesel truck and it was just painted black on the outside with bare steel on the inside. Are the insides of cast iron intake manifolds or cylinder heads coated?

There's this stuff called Paint that comes in spray cans costing about $3.00 each ($5.00 if want high temp). Any color you want. Or you can do like Amir did and let the tubes rust. Gives a nice, industrial look to the engine bay.

My suggestion... Skip the aluminum and go with thin wall mild steel (18 to 20 ga). I saw a a test at a couple weeks ago at DRS that showed no measurable difference in intake temperature (measured at the TB) between mild steel, aluminum, or stainless tubing on an Audi A4 with a 1.8T engine.

Eye kant spill... My point about the Latin phrase that I can't spell is that the messenger became the point of discussion, not the message. Its one of my pet peeves in arguement because its a tangent. Wikipedia has a good discussion of this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ad_hominem But your point: is correct. So, I retract my accusation of the Latin phrase that I can't spell.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/mocal1.htm

HeavyZ, Instead of countering with ad homeniem attacks, let's discuss the content of the articles. From your FT link: That's a simplistic view of UIA. http://www.windsofchange.net/archives/006314.php Without posting the entire article here, Darling speculates the the Iranian Mullahs sent Zarquari after some of the SCIRI leaders last year. Regardless of the vercity of the guess, the end result is the same: From the FT article again: The UIA is a coalition of 100 different Shia political parties. It is not a cohesive, one goal, one direction group - that is a way too simplistic view of Arabian politics and is the kind of mistake we often make in the West. Plus, there are the Kurds which account for projected 25% of the total representation in the upcoming Iraqi government.

By default, all conspiracy theories are BS. http://www.strategypage.com/onpoint/articles/2005216.asp

One of the many reasons why a cone on the end of a collector is so effective. Below is a picture of an exhaust I built for a 325is. The merge collector has a cone that goes from 2.5" to 3", although its a little hard to see.

And let's see how well the EU is doing in its decades long effort to impart Democracy in Belarus: http://slate.msn.com/id/2113452/

Quartermaster Tilton AP

Funny... Jim Thompson at Sunbelt built the intake manifold for my 320hp 262ft. lb. NA engine 3L engine and he used the exact rough rule of thumb I mentioned above. I don't know of anyone that considered that engine a tractor engine...

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A13059-2004Oct6.html

Nope, they don't work.

Counterpoint: http://www.weeklystandard.com/Content/Public/Articles/000/000/005/228jwcnr.asp

Read the link. This BS conspiracy theory has been debunked repeatedly.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/science/defense/1227842.html?page=1&c=y

My 505 weight above included everything in the list plus the weight of the pallet and crate. I would guess 550 lbs for my particular engine and the Quaife 5 speed sequential transmission I ran. Regarding setup, I did change the front/rear roll stiffness based on the wieght distribution changes fromt he car's original configuration. I ran a 23mm front and a 19mm rear anti roll bar instead of a 25mm front and 19mm rear.