johnc

FYI... The Burns mufflers are not quiet. The knock off about 5db.

The two bars going straight back from the strut towers are not needed if you're running the two bars angled to the center if the firewall.

You can also look at the pics in my gallery. As long as you plate from the top of the owl to firewall junction to the bottom of the cowl box (row of spot welds about 6" down from the top) with an .095" sheet) you should be fine for 275 width Hoosiers and 375 springs (what I ran for years)

I got 15000 miles out of a set of Toyo Proxes RA1s on my Ford Contour SVT. Had at least 15 track weekends on them as an instructor with Speedventures plus street miles. A lot depends on how you drive the car. Other SVT owners got less then 5000 miles out of the same tires (was a member of SVTOAat the time.)

Or you can have two sets of wheels and tires. One with a set of readily available 205/55-15 street tires and the other with your 235/45-15 DOT-Rs. Buy the fake BBS wheels now and put the street tires on them. Later, buy your fancy street wheels and move the street tires to them and put some DOT-Rs on the fake BBS wheels for track days and auto cross.

Just buy a small spool of 309L wire and some Solar Flux paste for the backside of the weld.

Racing rules make otherwise sane people do insane things. Been there, done that.

Stop looking for deals and trying to find some to help you out in their spare time. That's what got you here in the first place. Take your car to a professional shop and spend the money. FYI... There's no such thing as a certified automotive welder. You do have certifications for race sanctioning bodies (FIA, NHRA, NASCAR) only in the context of roll cages and tubular chassis structures.

Sunbelt got 208hp at the crank on an ITS spec L24. That's a stock E88 head (no porting, stock size valves, stock can, stock springs), stock bottom end, SU carbs, headers, ignition. The customer paid close to $10k forvthatcengine and all the R&D and parts swap blue printing. He went on to with ITS at the ARRC two yeasts in a row. Without the rules limitations you can get 250 or more horsepower with the same budget. That's why sane people don't artificially limit their builds with some odd parameter.

I would check the sliding pins on the caliper to see in they are loose, binding, or bent.

Same pattern on both sides of the rotor?

You'll pay twice. Once for the fender exit exhaust and again for the full exhaust that exits out the back.

208 to 240 hp at the crank with a proper engine build.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=m-nw2lALWOM

The most important aspects of the repair are: 1. Cutting out the screwed up plates removing as little stock sheet metal as possible. 2. Cutting and squaring the front strut towers so they match (angeles within a 10th and height withiin 1/32) and doing the same for the rears. The above is critical. You will probably lose 1/2" in height getting #2 right but that can be handled with a welded in strip/patch bent to shape that surrounds the top of the strut tower. You can even use the strip to get the angles and height correct if you don't mind the look. A strip of 1" x .083" cold rolled steel will work if carefully shaped to match the curvature of the strut tower.

http://www.niagarathermal.com/

It's about 4 hours of work to fix each strut top. You'll also need the chassis dimension drawing from this web site and a way to level the front to back and side to side. A laser will help. Make sure who ever fixes it doesn't fill any gaps with weld. The weld gaps should be mo wider then the width of the welding wire. That means a good fabricator is more important then a good welder. BTW... I wouldn't touch that repair job for less then $800 in labor.

Well Tony, not everyone is 6' tall with a 33" inseam. That is an issue brought on by the safety Nazis that did kill people. The initial air bag requiremtns was that they save an un-buckled 80th percentile male (225 lbs.) from serious injury. That ended up seriously injuring the 40th percentile female (110 lbs.) due to the force of the deployment. If you're a 5' tall woman how can you safely operate a vehicle if you have to sit so far back (for air bag safety) that you can't adequately push the pedals or turn the steering wheel?

Hack job. Cut them out and start over.

That type of failure is generally brought on by long one wheel burnouts.

There's a lot of safety crap in new cars that make a ton of sense. Seat pusher blocks, increased rollover protection, repositioning of fuel cells, better fuel line attachment, and a lot more. Accident survivability has increased by an order of magnitude since 1970. How is that a bad thing? How is saving your wife, your parents, and or your kids lives when they make a mistake a bad thing?

Yup, 1969 or earlier. Shit restomod/outlaw with all those drilled holes. Probably something Magnus Walker did. We have a 1973, 1969, 1966, and 1965 911 in the shop right now.

Check your battery cables, the chassis, and engine grounds. Run the biggest cables you can.

Most S30 owners are one missed paycheck away from having to sell the car. Same as most FC owners. If the product is already developed (as is most FC stuff from the early 90s and S30 stuff from the late 70s) then production continues at a slow pace. New product development for these cars makes very little business sense unless an existing product can be adapted cheaply and quickly.

No difference in hub to hub width. The only differences you are seeing is in the wheel or tire or body repair variances.