johnc

Make sure all the components in the steering and suspension are in good shape. The S30 has a lot of bump steer at either end of the front suspensions range of travel. If your car is lowered to where the front LCAs are parallel to the ground you're in that high bump steer zone. Vertically adjustable tie rod ends are the easy fix. You can also raise the steering rack (much harder to do). Relocating the inner mount for the LCA helps.

We just picked up a '62 single cab pickup as a shop truck. We have looked a the Subie swap but we can do a 180hp Type 4 and 5 speed for about $3500 all in. That's plenty for a drum braked bus chassis. You have to do a lot of work to the brakes and suspension to run 300hp in this chassis.

Again, do not do anything recommended in Paul's (BRAAP) thread until you get your engine running perfectly in STOCK condition. You need a good baseline to tune from.

Wolf Creek Racing or Troy Ermish Racing.

Call them and ask. Stop asking us to spoon feed you. Do the work yourself.

Avast is a POS. Lots of false positives (this site is one of them). You're better off without it.

Download the factory service manual. Links to it are all over this site.

Get it running in a perfect stock condition - valve adjustment, distributor advance curve, plug gap and indexing, send the injectors out to RC engineering for cleaning and balancing, test the entire engine wiring harness, test all the sensors to be sure they are in spec, fix all the oil, fuel, and vacuum leaks, fix any intake and exhaust manifold leaks, check valve spring pressures, etc. If you make sure its in perfect stock condition you will more power then most of the folks who mod a poorly running stock engine.

Please search guys. Stock cams have bene discussed here many mnay times over the last 14 years.

It can (and has) split along the seam at the bends in a wreck.

The engine is considered a max point mod (engine swap) with Redline and NASA and is not legal for any club racing class with SCCA except for the "run what ya brung" classes like ITE. It would not be competitive in NA form against the turbo engines it would have to run against here in the US. A L28 turbo engine built at 1/10 the cost would wipe it out given equal chassis prep.

http://my350z.com/forum/autocross-road/214117-track-pads-database.html

The first lap DOES NOT MATTER! You guys are losing your minds on the detail. In the Autocross/Road Racing forum there's a huge Track Pads sticky on my350z.com. The relative performance between the pads is applicable to the S30.

Catalytic converters are not the big exhaust restriction that people think they are. In back to back testing on a Solo2 BMW (STX class) the addition or removal of the cats had no effect on performance. That's on a properly tuned and well maintained car. Andy Hollis found the same results when testing on a STS Miata. The muffler has a bigger impact then the cat (or lack thereof).

Race crews don't necessarily do it the proper way. They do it the quickest way. It's actually quicker in the pits to do a caliper swap then a pad swap with the OEM front calipers. Three pumps of the brake pedal to bleed it good enough and then three more pumps at the next pit stop 1.5 hours later.

Something like this: http://m.ebay.com/itm/321240076921

I ran the oil lines from the remote filter to the oil cooler through the right side upper frame horn on a RB26 swap.

Saw it. Cool!

You may not agree with rule 4, but it makes a lot of sense from the admins point of view. It has stopped a lot of BS arguements about what is "best."

The the air dam openings are usually more then enough if you build a plenum behind the opening In the air dam and run 3" hose from the plenum. The plenum works to increase pressure in the system and results in more flow at the rotor. Same principle as the huge plenums run on restricted race engines.

The rationales may include NVH reduction, cost reduction through assembly simplification, or any number of other things including performance and mpg,

Does anyone really care what Matt has to say?

There is not best on Hybridz.

That indicates a bad MC.

And set aside 25% of your engine build budget for post build tuning. Most folks forget that tuning is where you get that last bit of horsepower, not in the build. If you budget $4000 for a build, reduce that budget to $3000 and set aside the $1000 for dyno tuning and parts swapping to make the engine work. You'll end up with more power then the guy who spends $4,000 on the build and has no money for tuning.