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Everything posted by Fuzzydicerule
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My car is not running. It's got the pseudo dbw setup. It has a throttle cable but if I understand it right all it does is twist an empty shaft with a position sensor aND there's another with a throttle blade that's computer controlled. If it causes issues I will replace it but I have other priorities
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That sucks man. You'll have plenty of time to finish her up. I got back from school and it took me almost a month to actually start work on mine again when I got home from school. I've got the whole front end wiring situated. Just gotta do the rear stuff now...
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Yeah. That's where Im at with it. Too much money for almost no reason. Any who. Updates. Still no pics because meh. I've got the entire front end of the car wired up. All I've got left to wire is the rear lights, fuel pumps and the dash wiring. But I've still got to pull the motor to finish some shit. But it should be running soon
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gotta love the "while I'm at it" list that never stops growing
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Hurry up and finish your car so you can post pictures and give me some inspiration...
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5 Month bump, for shits Almost nothing has gotten done in the last few months, I got some minor wiring projects done, mostly just got the fuse box mounted and wired the column controls. I have been away for school via my job, so i havent been able to do anything to the car, besides dream and get myself psyched up to get it running. I go home this weekend, and my goal is to get it running solid before i come back up for school again in january Anyway, i decided that i was unhappy with the cheap ass connectors that i bought, so i spent way too much money and bought a set of DEUTSCH DT weatherproof connectors with a tol as seen here http://www.amazon.com/Deutsch-Connector-Kit-451-With-Crimp/dp/B006QMKPV0/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1413164715&sr=8-8&keywords=deutsch+DT+connectors I got a 300 piece kit for 100 bucks less, still is an asston of money though... I work for caterpillar, and ive seen these connectors used, and the way they work, how easy they are to pull apart, and how well the crimp tool works made it a nobrainer for me to spend the dough and pony up for the kit. Should make for a much nicer install then the cheapo split crimp disconnects i got. Anyway heres a short list of the things that i can remember that i need to do on the car -Finish wiring, Basically everything in the dash, all the front and rear lights and the alternator, battery, ETC. Luckily the column controls and the ECU are almost entirely wired, so ive at least got a start. -Once the wiring is finished, Remove the motor -Minor refinish of the engine bay, basic smoothing and paint. -Finish the motor mounts, if im feeling insane i may redo them, as im planning on getting a better TIG/Stick welder combo, and im not 100% satisfied with the quality of the MIG welds on my current mounts, or the design for that matter. Same with the trans mount, which is ugly as sin. -FInish up lines for the motor, mostly just sorting out heater hoses, -Run fuel lines, IM currently debating whether or not to keep the High presure pump behind the passengers tire, or to move the surge tank and HP pump to the spare tire well to cut down on the fuel lines at the front of the engine... Its something i will have to debate before i get back home. I think if i do that, i will probably build a custom surge tank with an in-tank pump, or maybe even modify my gas tank to be in-tank to cut down on the clutter... -Disassemble the trans, and swap it to my modified shifter, which i may cut apart to ensure that the welds on the extension are up to par. -Fix the gaping chasm of a trans hole that i had to butcher together. -Reinstall the motor, get it running, and ruin my tires... Overall theres not too much work left to get this thing running, my only problem will be finding the time to work on it, however if i can get my other project sold, the Z can get the garage space and it will be much easier to work on it.
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ive heard that the STI rear diffs are good to about 450 lb ft or so, so you should be alright. it swaps out really easy too, i have a torsen diff out of an 08 sti in my Z with the wolf creek stubs and all i had to do was swap the pinion flange, pop the stubs in and swap the mustache studs and it bolted right in
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its kind of weird how similar our builds are, i ended up going with a rebel wire harness because i heard some iffy things about the EZ's quality, but you get how it goes.. IM about 1/3 done with my wiring, but im not going to be able to work on my car for a few months...
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Mishimoto VS Champion Radiators
Fuzzydicerule replied to Ham8urger's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
i think i paid just under 300 with 2 10" fans for my last car current cars radiator was bought by a friend when he owned it, so i dont know what he paid, FWIW These fans http://www.ebay.com/itm/380376743400?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 fit IMMACULATELY side by side between the two side bars on the champion, I have yet to see if they work well, but they were cheap and i was broke at the time, lol -
Mishimoto VS Champion Radiators
Fuzzydicerule replied to Ham8urger's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
I used the Champion on my LS1 car, and i have one in my current car, its a pretty decent piece for the price -
More text today, I've been lagging on this project due to working full time again and having other shit to do, I'm now waiting on a set of speedhut gauges I bought to arrive so I can finish wiring the car up anywho on to progress I decided to spend some money, there was an 08 Sti diff, helical lsd with only 8k miles for sale locally for a long time. He finally dropped his price to an affordable level, and I ended up getting it for 250 bucks! Unfortunately I then had to spend 350 on stub shafts to use my stock axles, but it fits like a glove. it's installed and pretty and ready to go
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The painted GTR grille is kind of dumb looking, and i can only imagine how little room there is in that passenger compartment now... this swap would have been better suited for a 2+2, but A for effort.
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Battery positive runs to the post on the battery. ( not the one that has a cable running into the body of the starter). Fusible link for vehicle power goes to the same. Starter energize runs directly from the ignition swith to the solenoid post. (Small spade connector between the 2 large posts). This will be a 12v wire and it grounds through the starter
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got some more crap done today, and as usual I didn't take any pics -mmounted my lift pump to my rear suspension upright, and got all the inlet lines run to that -pulled the dash to prepare for wiring nightmares -replaced all my heater lines under there to get rid of a leak I had -Cut a big ass hole in a strange spot to run my engine wiring through -got my throttle pedal about 75% sorted, turns out my hood pin standoff had a perfectly placed hole and I can use my stock quadrant with the cable. I just need to modify it a bit more to get a good pedal height and full range of motion
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CXRacing's Surge Tank Kit for RB25DET for use with L28ET
Fuzzydicerule replied to Q*bert's topic in Fuel Delivery
Fwiw, it's a large mount of unused space, and it comes with a debris shield. I got a hand me down surge tank nd I'm planning on mounting it and the high pressure pump in the same location, definitely going to have a full size inner fender there to keep rocks and such from damaging it. -
Well, i have managed to finish off the rest of my money... i didnt manage to get alot done today, but i did do some fancy noise making. -i picked up my new driveshaft. Unfortunately it actually needed about 1" more tube than the old driveshaft had, but it still didnt end up costing me all that much. -its a new spicer front slip yoke, meant for a 1310 spicer ujoint, a 1310 yoke for a 2.5" tube,and the stock rear u joint which was in good shape. As you can guess, thats been installed, the drivetrain will probably get pulled before it is needed, but why the hell not. I also decided to ruin my MkIII shifter Basically, i cut it up, and added 3" of material (which cost all of 4 dollars at my metal supply shop) I still have to extend the actual shifter arm, however, that will probably happen tomorrow. and this is why i did it. the currently installed shifter is a mk2 shifter, the standard mkIII housing is about 2.5 inches back from that as it was, and ive extended it by another 3 inches Should keep my fist out of my dashboard =) Anywho, basic plan for tomorrow is going to be getting the shift rod extended, and hoping it still works, luckily i have a spare trans to ensure that it functions. followed by removing the dashboard and most of the wiring, and if ive got the time and money, ill get the vent lines for the tank sorted and get that bitch reinstalled.
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Minor update -today I pulled the fuel tank and vapor system, basically going to be consolidating the vapor system and deleting the vapor tank, as well as taking the time to install my lift pump back there. -I decided to purchase a new wiring harness, so that project will get tackled here soon. I dunno. Shit will happen as I get to it