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HybridZ

DavyZ

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Everything posted by DavyZ

  1. All good answers--cost is relative. I'm shooting for a $5000 conversion when all is said and done, and that's without any paint!! Arrrg! That is more money than I have ever spent on any of my cars! Oh well, after all is said and done, it'll be totally worth it...at least that is what I keep telling myself. Davy
  2. The combo looks great so far, but what compression ratio are you shooting for with this setup? I'll be plenty fun with a CR between 9:1 and 10:1 Davy
  3. Thanks for the kind words, guys!! Jason, a moderator apparently does not have to know squat about anything mechanical, just be a referee of sorts (otherwise Dan would never have made me a moderator ) Seriously, thanks for the kind words and gentle floggings. Davy
  4. Wow, the work looks really top-notch from the pictures!! If the rest of the car turns out as nice, it will be one of the nicest 280Z's around! Davy
  5. Labrat, Email Ross Corrigan for the answer(he has a V8 ZX)--he's been too busy to log on lately, so he might not have seen this thread yet. Find a thread with his signature and you're there! Davy
  6. Angel, Congrats on getting it finished (sorta)!! If you have the ability to post pics, there are more than a few individuals on this board who are very anxious to see your solution, no matter what the final product may look like. Thanks! Davy
  7. Grumpy, The "law of diminishing marginal returns" totally supports what you just said (paraphrase): even though the efficiency goes down, the overall horsepower goes up with the larger motors like the 350 or 383. This, of course, jives completely with what David Vizard explains in some of his books. Taking nothing away from Omar or anyone else, this discussion is very enlightening!!! Davy
  8. Cripes, Monty, I can only imagine if you had the proper headers and a cam suited to the size/efficiency of the motor... BTW, the earlier 240Zs weigh in at about 2200 to 2300 lbs. for the most part. That would be fun with anything over 300 hp, let alone something even close to the power of your motor. Just sick I tell you. Thanks for the info!!!! Davy
  9. Lone, FWIW, the cover has been redone, but the info inside has not been updated--I checked it out the other day--if you have the old one, don't buy the new one to replace it! Davy
  10. quote: Originally posted by RXO510: I looked over the Z's at the local JY for a long time. I think the 260Z's have the rear corner widows that pop out on some hinges. I'm pretty sure those just popped out to the sides... Has this (install/swap)ever been done? RXO510, if there are any 260Z's with this feature, they are 2+2's. You know, I love the pop-out windows in the rear of 2 door cars, and I'd love some on my Z. You have given my a good (??!!??) idea about adapting this kind of mechanism to the rear quarter glass of the Z. I'm sure the 2+2 glass is too big and would have to swapped for the 2 seater glass, and the frame would have to be modified to suit the smaller window. Hrm. The mechanism to pop the window out (and hinges) is all I'm really after...I just need to see how the windows compare with each other. This could be a very cool swap indeed; thanks for the idea! Davy
  11. Man, hard to believe you actually typed all that info. I found similar info in a book called Engine Swapping Tips & Techniques originally compiled by Hot Rod. Very useful info in there, although much of it is dated and does not cover EFI, engines built after '74, or overdrive transmissions. Still, the info is useful for the most part and the SBC has not changed much over the years. Davy
  12. Not to mention the functionality factor too, Ross!! After I am finished designing my front spoiler, I'll be using your coil-overs. That way, I can get the proper riding height without scraping the front and get the handling I require. They are a good idea, even for a street car!! (Plus, if the police ever get snippy about the ride height, in just 5 minutes you have changed it to their liking, and then back again when they are gone!) Davy
  13. Pleeeeze think very long and hard BEFORE you cut into the roof for a sunroof. Once you do it, there is pretty much no going back easily. The roof of the Z is not really flat, but has a slight curve, while the glass they use for the moonroofs are flat. To me it does not look right--in fact, it looks unsightly. Yes, you did not ask for my opinion, but I have to chime in, because I loathe the idea of cutting into roof sheetmetal; it's just something I wouldn't do. Just my $.02 Davy
  14. I saw this earlier today, but I did not have time to post. I really like the looks of that engine! Very clean work and quality parts. Shoudl be a super strong runner. Davy
  15. Maybe I'm just different (maybe sick), but I really like it! Heh, so slap me!!! The red paint and big tires just do it for me!!! Yeah, baby!!! Davy
  16. Ditto on what Lone said. I talked with the guys from Redline, and they said for break in, you DO NOT want to run any multi-weight oils. Use a straight 30W oil for break in, and then go to the oil you want to use on a regular basis. Davy Heh heh, cool...
  17. I agree--those are like Rollex watches or Rols Roise cars, etc. Fake, baby, fake. Real Recaro seats have the name plate on the front of the seat, unless they are the very most expensive top-of-the line ones, which those are certainly NOT! Don't go there... The Honda seats are a much better alternative, are comfy, are very well bolstered, and will keep you from sliding off of them in a turn because they are cloth. Go for those instead IMO. Davy
  18. Heh heh, congrats! That's why they pay you guys the big bux! Davy
  19. Wow, if they are only an inch longer, than they'll probably look pretty good on the Z. Good luck in your project!
  20. Thanks for posting those--very descriptive!
  21. Unless you are using an LSD to combat this, JTR indicates that the rear bar causes inside tire to lift, and then the torque of the V8 just spins the inside tire causing loss of traction and producing slower times. So, with an open diff, the hot ticket according to JTR (if you slalom, etc) is to NOT a rear bar. That makes complete sense to me because the inner tire will stay on the ground, thus giving more traction. But wouldn't there be more unwanted chassis twisting going on with only a front bar?? Yes? That would concern me enough to reinforce the chassis some if I was to run no rear bar. BTW, Dan's idea about reinforcing the front bar mount is an excellent one! Gotta remember to do that.... Davy
  22. ROTFL!! That's the funniest visual I've had today--I'm still laughing. Man, and I thought we were young & dumb when we lined a buddy's '56 Ford pickup bed with plastic and filled it with water for use as a passenger hot tub while driving ! lol John, you had us beat by mile! That's pure Car Craft material for sure Davy
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