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DavyZ

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Everything posted by DavyZ

  1. DavyZ

    r200 rebuild

    OOoooh, learned something new today--thanks, Pete! Davy
  2. I am assuming you are asking about shortening the strut cartidge (shock)?? You use the ones from the front for the back, and then use ones for a VW Rabbit or MR2 for the front. Look at Jeromio's site for the info...I think he has it listed there. Davy
  3. Nothing known, but anything is possible--you may just well pave the way for a new swap. I prefer to do a 'tried and true' mega power swap for the small block Chevy, but that's my preference. One ride was all it took to convince that 'this is it!' Davy
  4. The scoop is the thing that has to go--looks very rediculous on the hood. The wing may be excessive, but it bothers me less than the 'large' or 'heavy' look of the back half of the car. Perhaps it is just a 2+2 thing, I dunno. Davy
  5. quote: Originally posted by stony: hmmm gtr tail lights are exactly the same as gtst taillights... i could have gotten tons of them in japan for 50-70 bucks each :> Stony, do you have any trustworthy friends in Japan that could hook us up? Davy
  6. It's good to have Grumpy here online, but it's also great to have Jason at Performance Plus in Dublin here (locally) as well I feel really good getting advice from guys who are very well versed in SBCs. I echo Pete's sentiments. Davy
  7. Douglas, Is $200 nzd for the set about $100US??? If it is, you should put some up on ebay, same as this guy did and make some $$! Davy
  8. Nion, I think there is a double meaning there! Also, Jags are not really that fast either (well the newest ones are) so the name fits well either way. I like your interpretation the best though, "Jags that actually run." I get it! JaZon, You'll never regret buying that manual. Please make absolutely sure you read the entire manual, cover to cover, ok? There is sooo much good info in there, you'll be jazzed to get going. Welcome to the club! Davy
  9. If cash was more plentiful right now, this would have been really cool to adapt to a Z's rear end. I think they look really cool! Davy
  10. Arg! That BITES! Too bad about losing some cash, but like Larry said, you have it figured out. I would have been puzzled for a long time before figuring it out, if ever. Good luck to your steady progress!!!! Davy
  11. Section your struts and run coil-overs. That is the best and safest way to do it IMO. That way, if the fuzz ever gives you grief, you can get the fix-it ticket nixxed in 10 minutes... Davy
  12. Yes, a bigger wheel is better for parallel parking and slow driving (maybe even autocrossing if your tires are really wide), but a smaller steering wheel is better once you are moving--there tends to be less (I did not say 'no difference') difference at speed. However, with power steering, the steering wheel size should not be so much of an issue. Davy
  13. Rick, From what I have read (David Vizard), 400 blocks should be 'sonic checked' to determine cylinder sidewall thickness. I think a sound 400 block would make a great start for a torquey motor! Davy
  14. quote: Originally posted by MAX SCARAB 327: commercials. What?!? You scare me sometimes, Leonard. Anyway, a JTR kit is relatively cheap and is a superior setup IMO. If you want, just buy the JTR manual and fabricate the parts yourself. Good luck. Davy
  15. You can use the stock crank and pistons, but you are assuming a couple of things here: 1) They (rods & pistons) are up to handling the new power (as memory serves me, stock rods are good up to about 400 hp or so. 2) the 425 hp you make is still in the 'safe' rpm range for your engine with the stock bottom end. If the 425 hp comes in at say 6100 rpm like they say it does, you should be alright, at least for a period of time. How worn are the rings and bearings? Grumpyvette or one of the other experienced guys would be able to tell you best. Keep in mind that the Systemax kit probably works 'best' with forged pistons and quality rods, because Holley owns Lunati and they want you to buy the stuff. Seriously, if you bottom end is new like the top end, then you'll have a motor that will live longer, especially with drag strip abuse and the like. The Systemax kit is good bang for the buck IMO. Even if you didn't keep the intake manifold, you could always sell it and recoup at least $100 on ebay for it--seems like many people pay too much for junk, so I wonder what they will pay for a new quality piece? Davy
  16. Leonard, If your car idles too high, just take a big pair of wire cutters and go over to the harness, make a big snip and all of your idle problems will go away. Don't you wish it were that easy? Davy
  17. Just to offer some additional opinion, I have seen these adapters first hand and I can tell you that they are strong looking! As of now I don't need any adapters, but if I change wheels and need them, I'll NOT think twice about using them. Just my $.02. Davy
  18. Maybe you should email them and ask what is involved. The manual trannys appear to be simpler in their make-up than auto trannys do. If you are concerned with screwing up and wadding the trans, get a video on rebuilding the T5. I really doubt it is all that difficult, though. Just my $.02. Davy
  19. Welcome to the forum! The block huggers are actually 'up to snuff' and I have them on a 350 V8. They are reasonable for the price and fit well with respect to straight (not angled) plugs on the heads. I bought mine several years ago and they only came with a standard black paint. I'm not a fan of the stuff and I will be getting the headers powder coated in the near future...at least that is the plan anyway. I have seen ads for headers already powdercoated for only $175! That would have saved me shipping if I would have bought the others in the first place. Oh well. Davy
  20. Hrm, maybe they are best for very large or very cars? It would seem like that would be the case--hence the use in street rods like '40 Fords and the like, and also in trucks. Oh well, I'll stick to Tokiko's. Davy
  21. Welcome to the forum, 240 Al! You are 100% sure that your fuel delivery is an easy 5-7 lbs at the carb? I know you say that you double checked the timing--have you read about ellobo's recent post about the same problem? It should be here in the top 10 posts---please read it since it may contain the information you need. Hope you can cure it; good luck! Davy
  22. Eh, you got me interested so I emailed him for the pics of the setup they will be selling. WAY to rich for my blood, but I bet a friend and I can build a similar system for a Z that will be just a bit cheaper by several thousand. I always like to look though. Thanks for the link!! Davy
  23. Dang! If those engines are so light, I'm wondering what it would take to mate one up to a T56 (I'm dreaming here ok). A big cubic inch torquey motor would be lots of fun in a 'heavier' 280Z or 280ZX, especially with a stick shift!!! The motor would hardly have to work at all to make great power, and smoking the hides would be so easy! Anyway, I can dream... Davy
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