DavyZ

Look at Alsil's site (he posts on the Ford Forum a lot) He had Hyundai side markers--they make for an easy and very clean almost flush mounted mod. Very tasty if you ask me--check it out. I tell you if I can find these in the junkyard, I'll pull them and mount them. If you want to go new, look at the pickup magazines and even motorcycle magazines--you'd be surprised at what shows up! I never did until recently, and they have opened my thinking up to a lot more possibilities! Also, try some of the rice rags--they have a lot of "custom" stuff in those. David

Having a "universal" type of tube instead of using the pillars on the crossmember is an intruiging idea. Mike Knell said he will be looking at doing that kind of thing for the JTR V8Z swap in the future. According to him, it will solve several problems at once and provide a nice alternative. David

Welcome to the forum! I'm sure that you'll get most of the information you need to perform your swap. Keep reading as you have been doing and use the "search" function on the black forum page where you log in to find information on the topics you want to know about. You can even download the info into a file on your computer or onto a disc! David

I think the body looks "cleaner" with no marker lights, side moulding, or insignias. Some guys have shaved their door handles too! Just make sure the local HEAT won't bother you if you do this mod. The only other issue I can think of is using the signal for turning purposes. Will other drivers see you and know what you want to do if you have no side markers? Sure you have the front and back ones...but just make sure you are comfortable about nixing them altogether. Just my $.02. David

Lone's idea of a freon based cooler is great, but you would never want one directly over the intake manifold as SPL311 wants to do. Why? Condensation!!! You'd have dripping water going into the cylinders and that's not exactly desireable. Now, if one would move that intercooler just off to the side.... David

Neil, that sounds like a CA smog law. Unless your state has adopted the same laws, that is meant for CA. David

Excellent! Sounds like MSA has changed their kit from the "Scarab" type to a better JTR type design. Kudos to them! Pete: We are looking forward to an mpeg video of the "fireworks" on the 4th!!! David

Actually, if they included GM motor mounts, the deal is not so bad. Here is the question I have: how do they get the hood release mechanism to work if the engine is truly set back? It's hard to tell from the pics in the MSA catalog. If they have to modify the latch mechanism, then the engine is about as far back as it needs to be and you're fine. Just use the MSA ones; sounds like they'll NEVER break! Good thing you are looking at options for the radiator and other things because you are sure to save money Let us know how it goes! Again, look into the hood release/latch mechanism--if it has to be modified, you are ok when it comes to engine setback. David [ June 19, 2001: Message edited by: DavyZ ]

Sorry if I sounded pissy when I posted: I'm still suffering from some kind of flu and I spent the day sweating under a closed rear hatch of a Z car in the hot sun. I'm sure there are more than a few guys here in the forum that have the MSA setup. MSA is a great company and stands by the products they sell. Plus, they do sell you everything you need, so the convenience is definitely nice. The JTR setup requires more work, but it also can save you money. Most guys in this forum work with some kind of a budget, as I do, and would rather put more money into the engine or suspension or brakes (all things being equal). I'm sure the MSA kit is better than John's Cars kit or some of the other ones out there, so I'm not disputing that. Just be aware that the JTR book can save you some cash. For example, the radiator MSA sells retails for $395; then add in the filler unit $85; then add in the fan shroud $85, etc. With shipping, you're already looking at almost $600 and you have not touched the mounts or headers yet!! My JTR mounts I can make myself for under $100. MSA sells theirs for $197. Even if you get the MSA mounts, check out or borrow a JTR book to save you cash in other areas. Again, I'm sorry if I spouted off and gotcha riled up. My apologies. David [ June 19, 2001: Message edited by: DavyZ ]

Terry, you are the MAN! Good job on the rear discs. Now if only I can duplicate it, then everyone will be able to do it! David

Like Owen, I also heard that the shorter knuckles were from 280Z's! Hrm, me thinks there is confusion in da kamp. I'd love to know "the truth" about them. Heck, I don't want to pay more for something I could pull from a 510 or 280Z at the wrecking yard! David

Yes, it can be done. There is a member on this forum that has done it. Look at the member's rides section of the forum--you'll see pictures of "Lone Star's" LS1 Z. As far as handling is concerned, theoretically it would handle like a stock Z with urethane bushings. I don't think the LS1 adds any weight over the straight 6 because of all the aluminum. With all that power, corners will not be very fun... Use the search function to find a discussion on it. Look in the "general" section of the forum--that's where I think it was. David

Why don't you use the search function in the forum and see what comes up. Over 90% will say go JTR. At the very least get the JTR manual and read it first--it'll help you with either swap. The MSA mounts say they put it back "closest to the firewall for optimum weight distribution." Ummm, closest relative to what? This is good salesmanship! I can't fault them for it either! Shoot, I sold cars! Plain and simple--90% or more of the swaps on this forum are JTR because it not only puts the engine as close to the firewall as physically possible, it also puts it down low as well--lower=better handling. Carefully at the MSA ad--it shows the Edelbrock airfilter--the lowest profile airfilter on the market. That's because there's probably little to no room for an adequately sized airfilter! I'm not faulting them for their product--shoot, if you like it, go buy it! Using their conversion, you'll have put out just a FEW more $$$ then you should have; but hey, it's a free country... David

Sorry to hear about your misfortune--bummer, man. I hope you sell it. It looks like a deal. David

You might want to hold off on swapping out the drum brakes until scca and Ross Corrigan (spelling? sorry Ross) get their bracket finished--then the swap will be cheap and easier--otherwise, there are plenty of guys in this forum with websites documenting the swap. David

It might be faster if you just get the bushings pressed out. Weight out the cost factor (if it's cheap & fast, no worries), otherwise, there is always Harbor Freight Tools or Northern Auto Parts, etc, for a press. 6 inch rods have a following...at least from me anyway. Next engine I build will probably have those tall rods: 6+ inches. Should be great. BTW that 350 engine requires a 400 block--good luck finding a good one--they are getting harder and harder to find. David

I'll look them up--thanks for the tip! David

Ummm, I'm not a Ford expert, but an aquaintance of mine put a 351W in Mustang and it hauls beans. Also, a guy I knew in high school also had one in his '70 slantback (?) and he could roast the tires. Those are in big heavy cars... I would think that in a Z it would not make any difference. The 351 is a great engine from what I've ever read. If I ever do a Ford swap, the 302 and the 351 are the ones I would consider. David

You are right--however, I have already invested in very nice valve covers (I would have to go centerbolt with the Vortecs I believe) and also I would have to machine my intake manifold to accept the new mounting on the heads. I don't want to shell out anymore cash. If I was doing this all over again, the Vortec heads would be at the top of my list for a budget build up anyday. David

BTW, my cracked heads are 76cc smog-job heads. Lenster and I are going to the local wrecking yard this weekend to see what we can come up with David

I think you would end up installing a Z body over an existing chassis rather than adapting an AWD system to a Z. And the candidates are: Subaru (especially the SVX), the Eclipse, the Cyclone & Typhoon. I like the idea of a Typhoon/Cyclone because it it already set up for a longitudinal mounted American motor. Cool idea you guys are bopping about... David

Well the pounds per square inch are incredible when you think about how fast the racecar is going--it may as well have been a brick. Ever try to do something stupid like opening the car door while driving and grabbing something off the street like a traffic cone? It'll just about tear your arm off! Can you say pain? The forces generated by speed of an object are incredible! Cool video BTW; Yuichi posted it at ZDriver a while ago. I think it's from inepthumor.com or something. Thanks for posting it--I'll send it to a few friends. David

If your Z is a late model 260Z, then 240Z springs would be softer and be better for a good holeshot IMO. Otherwise, a racecar fabrication shop can custom wind you some to your specs. Per JTR, though, the stock front suspension is supposed to be really good for drag racing. David

Frank, as Lone just mentioned, that was an excellent piece of work. I actually understand how this whole thing works. I think for my own purposes I'll not have a bellypan other than maybe something relatively small to keep the road debris and water from the front part of the motor. My idea is to eventually make a GT-40 style hood like Terry Oxandale's so the air gets directed in, up, and out the top of the hood for increased downforce--but that would be adding to the low pressure on top now wouldn't it? Hmmm, this is an intellectual feast now isn't it? David

Welcome to the Forum! You can get good paint & body books at Barnes & Noble or the website for Classic Motorbooks. Not sure if you just want a book on the basics or if you are looking into customization. I recently bought an awesome, completely up to date book from Classic Motorbooks called "Cheap Tricks and Special FX" that is the best customization book I have ever seen for trick paint. The pictures and art is second to none. The scull stuff is not really for me, but some of it is fun to look at though. Good luck! David