rudypoochris
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Posts posted by rudypoochris
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I was just saying that it wouldnt be taking away from HBZ because HBZ would provide alot of its information.
Thats true. It would not be taking from away from HybridZ. It is merely an additional tool in the Z car enthusiasts arsenal.
In an attempt to better provide content, I have also created a "Page Requests" feature. This is basically just a page, here, that you can type what you would like information on. If I know about it, or if someone else does, they can feel free to create a new article.
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Just out of curiostity, given years and tons of members arn't you guys just creating another HybridZ?
The only way that site will be (should I dare?) "better" is if you mabey clone some of the great dictators to admin the site.
I can see a consolidation of information but the variables are endless. Saying "no" to people wil start to become a full time job.
Summerizing HybridZ would be fantastic in the short run but after years of contrabutions, (like half of all the lame ones I post), will just bog down any site. No?
Nope. Not trying to create a HybridZ at all. Mainly just trying to make a huge index of Z Car information with out discussion, with out repetition, with out anything but fact really. There are no questions in the parts index.
It doesn't need to be 'better' than HybridZ. It cannot be 'better' than HybridZ. It is not intended to be a forum like HybridZ or to compete with HBZ in anyway. There is no discussion other than talk over whether or not the information is accurate or in need of editing, and that is seen only in the background. The basic concept is that it is more of an extension of HybridZ. It is a parts database - an index. Hopefully it will be filled with specifications, CAD drawings, and raw information about parts, their interchangeability, etc. Written not in loose speak with enough information that the person knows how to interpret the data, followed by charts, drawings, photos, etc.
I am not worried about saying 'no to people'. Anyone can revert edits and deletions. If someone is causing real trouble and molesting the site, I and persons who have demonstrated their responsibility can simply remove the user and revert the data.
Once again, the point is not to summarize HybridZ. The concept is to gleen information from a multiple of sources (at this point the majority of the stuff I have added was actually not sourced off HybridZ... although it could with enough searching); including forums such as HBZ, but mainly off of real experience with the parts. That is the information that is truly valuable. How long is a control arm, center to center. That sort of stuff. Simply measuring parts will be a large part of what I intend to eventually contribute. Bolt patterns, weight, interchangeability, etc. As an engineering student I have many a time found this data useful, yet unavailable or difficult to obtain.
You get stuff to put on the zcarindex from threads here. Without HBZ you wouldnt have all the info to condense.Some of it is from HBZ. I do not understand the point of that comment? With out what I have learned in school I would not be able to work. So? Everything is linked together.
We are not trying to compete with HybridZ in any way. Actually not trying to compete with anyone... its just a place to put raw information. Discussions, such as this won't exist there. It is literally a parts index. It can survive with out HybridZ just as HybridZ can survive with out it. Neither can survive with out sources of information, viewers, and contributors.
I do understand and do hope to use it as a tool in the future. You guys are very smart and it will be curious to see how your endevors pay out in the future!
Thank you!
I hope you, as well as anyone else, help make it a better tool in the future as well. I only know so much. Realistically I have typed the majority of what I KNOW about Z parts. I know very little about the suspension design, brakes, etc. Someone else with that kind of knowledge will eventually have to contribute it if it is to be made available.
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On any given day, there are more rotary engines in competition than any other brand of engine.
Source?
They last long, provided the cooling system works (unlike a piston engine with a steel cylinder head that can overheat . A aluminum cyl head piston engine can not overheat and it's cyl head warps easily) and the oil is kept within specification.Source?
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That's a 16.5% drop in ratio which is a big drop given the engine torque numbers you list. If you can split that with a shorter tire you will probably see a small increase in fuel mileage, but since your torque peak is at 2,400 rpm you don't want to get too far away from that number.
Is it that the engine will be too far out of its power band? I know it isn't exactly the same thing, but don't the LSx's run something like 1600rpm at freeway speed. Surely their torque peaks are quite high up compared to such a low number?
Thanks! I am really thinking the better option is to get a new OD gear cut from a local gear cutter.
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Sounds great! I appreciate any contribution.
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Eh, I was just looking for info and found his remark rather hypocritical and unhelpful, don't you?
How is that hypocritical? Did he guess? It is not hypocritical. Someone posted blatantly incorrect information and he essentially told the person not to guess.
Thread content: Does anyone know how many splines an s13 (JDM) R180 has?I would suggest trying zilvia.net. You would have more success over there I think as the R180 short nose is not typically a differential used with most our cars.
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I am paying to learn and I am learning a lot for very little money. I now have skills and abilities I never would of had if I hadn't pursued making this automobile in the way that I have.
Just like when I take a new job, I am getting paid in money, yes, but if it is a really good job, the payment I am getting in knowledge is worth the cash easily ten fold.
That and the car is built exactly the way I like it which is obviously a plus, since it is exactly what I want in every way. If it wasn't, I would change it.
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That looks great!
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Looks good, but Id think it would be cool to add which heads can fit which motor with what modification, what is the resulting compression, good/bad swap, etc.
I agree. You can add that information if you like. Simply create an account or log in at the top right. Then the "edit" feature will become available to you.
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For a long time I have been thinking that it would be really useful to have a database full of Z Car specific modifications and parts information. I proposed the idea way back in this thread (http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114240&highlight=parts+index).
Well, I have finally done it. I made a Wiki (similar to wikipedia.org in construction and concept). The idea is that anyone with Z knowledge can create an account and edit information about specific parts, modifications, etc. That way if someone is wondering what the available R200 ratios are, what the spline count is on a stub axle, what aftermarket brake upgrades there are.... etc. They can search it and then contribute if they know something others may not.
I am hoping that this will become a very useful tool specifically aimed at the HybridZ community. Please do check it out and give me some feedback. The success of such a tool really rests on those who use and contribute to it. Please do contribute, it is much appreciated! If you need assistance using the software, feel free to email me at admin@zcarpartsindex.com or alternatively just PM me. Thanks guys!
Here is the main page:
Right now there is not very much information, but there really is no limit, beyond the users themselves, to what can be added. Here are a couple pages worth looking at for now:
http://zcarpartsindex.com/index.php?title=Nissan_L_Engine
http://zcarpartsindex.com/index.php?title=Differential_List
http://zcarpartsindex.com/index.php?title=Stub_Axle_and_Companion_Flange
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I have a truck with specs:
155hp @ 4200rpm
220ftlbs @ 2400rpm
4300lb loaded
OD: .79
Tire: 235/75/15 (28.88" OD)
Basically I am trying to pull better fuel economy out of this truck. I have 3.27 rear gears right now and cruise 1960rpm at 65mph. I am wondering if switching to 2.73's will gain me fuel economy? It will shift me down to 1630rpm at 65mph which will essentially make the car a dog. Will this load the engine too much and someone cause me reliability issues? Increased fuel consumption? I don't see it causing either, but people have told me that it will be an issue. I would prefer to get some real 'experts' advice here, at least I consider you all 'experts' compared to the other 95% of forums I find. Thanks guys!
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This is a second gear pull. Ford 302 vs F20C. Both posted peak 200whp. The rpm is scaled from the Honda... 5280 to 8800rpm pull. The Ford is doing 3000 to 5000. Difference is almost 14% more acceleration despite the same peak HP values. That makes a huge difference that isn't subjective.
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Well the thing is the more torque you have at a lower RPM, inherently your going to have more power under the curve for a specific peak horsepower. Thats just how it is. 500hp is peak measurement, nothing more. If you say 300ftlbs peak and 500hp peak versus 500hp peak and 500ftlbs peak, the difference in acceleration under a 2nd gear pull may be 5-20% more for the later. That is a big deal.
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What about using the rubbery stuff, lawn molding I think it is called, that some people put on the front of their air damns?
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Molds are at 90+% completion. Wheels are going into testing later this week or early next week. If they pass then we should be good to start ordering.
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I am assuming these are one piece. Can anyone confirm? Would be interesting to find the weight out.
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How heavy are the stock 240z doors? I thought they were pretty light... Are you planning on just running a skin basically and using a cage as a form of crash protection? Or are you going to engineer the doors to be strong enough with fiberglass? Just wondering.
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Was he supposed to drive 200 miles with the stuff in the oil? I thought it was idle and drain pretty much.
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Well 2JZ's have been used in every IS300 and GS300... since 1999 or before... It is a pretty common motor. Now, the 2JZ-GTE isn't as common, but I was sort of assuming you were going to piece the unit together.
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I currently have a Kaaz 1.5 way installed. I'll likely just swap the R&P and drill out to fit the larger 13mm bolt.
Someone on another forum suggested using the Z31 ring and the Q45 pinion, but I assume you are not supposed to mix rings and pinions, right?
Definitely do not mix the ring and pinion if they even will mate properly.
I don't see any issue boring up the bolt holes using a drill press. Make sure the offsets are the same between gear setups.
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I think so! Apparently he replaced this one with ANOTHER new Nismo CLSD, then went KAAZ. Haha.
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I bought a Nismo Competition R200 LSD that a 240sx'er used for a week. This is basically the same thing as a Power Brute. The guy thought it was broken because it was loud and clunky. In any case, I bought it and opened it up to inspect it since I eventually plan on selling it (I don't trust other people typically either). All looks well. Here are some pictures. If you guys want detailed pics or measurements of anything, let me know. The three screws that hold this case together are torqued MUCH tighter than they really should be for a #3 philips. Its ridiculous. I am replacing them.
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No. It will not.
Why not just swap a Q45 differential into your 240sx, or is the center a different spline. Can you run Q45 axles? Don't VLSD 240sx axle stubs mate to the Q45 center, if the splines are different.
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I don't have it with me, but the specific length of the spacers, A - B -C, are in the FSM. I would pit it in an end mill and have it reduced it to the exact length. No point in eyeballing it imho. As to where to find one... well you should probably first find that letter on the strut. The B spacer and strut combos are pretty common from what I have read. You might have to go yard to yard to find it. I can't exactly remember where it is myself, but you should be able to find it if you clean the strut. It is somewhere on the "barrel" that houses the stub.
NZR: 3.27 -> 2.73 too steep?
in Non Tech Board
Posted
I am figuring it this way.
The engine is probably most efficient at peak torque or peak horsepower or somewhere about there. That is that the ratio of power received for fuel used is the highest. That being said, I do not need that much power. So you can gear out of it. The low point should be determined by when the engine is so geared out that it is so far out of its efficiency that despite lower revs and less pumping loss, the amount of fuel going in respect to the power back is not a favorable ratio. If only I could get a chart that showed this... is that basically what a VE chart is? If so, does anyone have a VE chart for anything like a stock 5.0L or 350 or 4L, etc. Big cubes, low power.