VinhZXT

Thanks you for the replies. I will try Borgeson

Hey guys, I am looking for to put in a steering coupler or universal joint. I measure the steering shaft and it's close to 1/2 inch and I don't see summit has something close to this size. Anyone has any experience with this. I have a 77 280Z BTW. Thanks for any help.

Pictures of the modified stock C5 headers are up on my web site http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2079260/2 .. I didn't weld it back yet. Don't let that old dirty look fool you. They are SS and with a buffing dish they will look brand new again.

Scottie, hehe.. I have to give you a lot of props for building faster cars hehe ... For me I am happy just to be in 11s or 12s. I just got through problems with the headers. My brother helped me with the headers and afterward we had about 16 heineys so I didn't take any pictures. I will post some pictures asap on my web page. I hope to get my cobra done in 2 years so I can see you at the zcar convention in Florida.. See you there .. in the mean time take care... Sincerely Vinh

After spending more time looking at the C5 stock headers I can modify these without a problem. These stock C5 headers are very good in design. They are stainless steel BTW and they are actually made in 2 layers. I guess 1 is for limiting the heat going into the engine bay and 2 is not to kill the stainless steel outside layer. Anyway I will post some pictures when they are done.

Dale, Thanks for the picture. I will modify the stock C5 header to hug the block a bit more and it should clear of everything. The good thing about these stock headers is I was able to cut the lower part of the header off and they can be turn any direction to best fit my exhaust later on. Thanks again. Vinh Sorry I have a 97 or 98 C5 headers.

Dale, I have the C5 stock headers. Thanks for the offer. I just compare the stock header and the JTR and yup the stock one has the collector slightly offset to the back of the engine and the JTR is forward offset. Here are the pictures http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2079260/2 I looked at the stock headers again and I think the easier way to get these to fit is to cut the tubes before the flange and cut off a chunk at the lower part of the tube (source like a crescent moon) and then reweld it back on to the flange. This will get the header huge the block to clear the frame rails and the steering shaft. At this point I am still trying to use the JTR headers so I will call Greg to see anything he can do for me. If not then I have to return the headers and mod the stock headers. Edit: I just talk to Greg and it didn't sound too good. The headers will be on it way back to JTR. I will be modifying the stock headers.

Scottie, How are you and the family doing? it's been a long time eh? My family and I are doing good. I am still with LMCO. Yes It's time for me to step up to the plate and take the challenge ). This will be my last project. Last I heard you were working on an RX7 how is that coming along? Do you still have our phone numbers? If you're happen to be in Philly or close by please contact us. Talk to you later. Take care. Vinh PS. I will try to find ways to install these headers because they are nice looking and light. If nothing works I will be shaving the stock Vette headers like Cyrus did and this should solve my problem. BTW I have access to a lathe so shaving the stock headers is not a problem. Thanks guys

Hi guys, What headers do you guys used? I just got the Sanderson headers from JTR and the passenger side one rubs my mount. I made a mistake for not asking before ordering the headers. The JTR header (passenger side) has the collector offset to the front a bit (relative to the center of the header). I think I need the one with the collector right on the center or offset to the back just a bit. Thanks for any info .. V. PS. I do not use JCI mounts. I am building my own crossmember and use the Vette mounts and biscuits.

That's the kit from Arizona 's Zcar. They have a yellow ZXT with that same kit on it.

Rags, Which yellow Z was yours? I have 2 yellow Z pictures. One with the louver hood and the other is not. Baracu, You were the one Pete was telling me about. Sorry I couldn't check out your V8 Z. I did took a quick lap inside the mall and then went back outside. Fenatic, The show was in Syracuse NY not far from Utica. I have several pictures of me and some new friends I met at the show. Sorry not much car pictures. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2090101/2 I just put up some pictures at the show on page 3.. Have fun

Yes I saw that Cobra on Ebay. The front doesn't look like the original Cobra. The back looks like the original one. That kit is not on a Z chasis. You have to do all custom works on that car. The Cobra at the convention belongs to Glen. I had pictures of this Cobra on my web page. I will encourage my friends to get their Cobras on the road and prepare for the 2007 convention in Florida. Hopefully I get mine done too.

I have a correction to make. After the adjustment of the AFM I get full boost in 1st gear and now I have no problem getting to the 5K RPM. Before that I had a hard time getting beyond 3K in 1st gear.. FYI.. Try to loosen a couple of teeth of the AFM and test drive it. I doubt the other stuffs you are changing will make a difference. Good luck

Yasin, Yes my wife took a bunch of pictures. They are all look the same except for the color hehe.. I like a few very nice V8 swap Zs. Other than that the rests to me they all look the same stock looking. Yes I am sure the owners of those cars view my car the same way hehehe.. I will go over the pictures when I have time and maybe I will put a couple on here.. Cheers V.

It could easily be the signal line to the gauge has broken off. How does the car drive BTW?

Why would you have to keep your foot on the pedal? It will run without it. Without it it will take longer for the engine to warm up and it will run rich during that period. On the N/A you don't have the running rich problem it you remove the CSI.

You've got the wrong gasket. I made the same mistake. I order the gasket for my turbo motor and I got the same one you got. I came back and ask him to show me a gasket for 79-81 N/A car and the parts guy gave me the correct one. The bad thing is I actually had this wrong gasket in my spyderzxt now. It drove fine but the problem is the head will be very hot because of the oil stuck up there and won't return as fast to the pan. The result is my oil temp will never get very hot. This winter I will tear it down and put the correct gasket on it. Good luck

I used this intake on my turbo ZX and I did what Akeizm did. Drill another hole about an inch infront of the old one and used a plug to plug the old one up.. Sorry no picture though

Thumper, Sean73 is correct. Your problem is the AFM. I have stock T3 and stock EFI and for awhile I was having this same problem. The problem occurred when I was playing with my AFM awhile back trying to save some gas. I adjusted the AFM spring too stiff. I had to back it off a couple of teeth at a time and test driving it. Now I can get 4 or 5 lbs of boost on 1st gear and full boost on 2nd. There is a quick way to check this without boosting it also. Let your car cruise on 2nd gear at little bit above 3K RPM and watch your boost gauge. If it doesn't have enough fuel it will make sudden jumps. This is when it bogs and will not boost. Do that for all gears and you will see what I am talking about. Good luck

I went to the Z convention yesterday in NY. It was nice to meet some of the guys from here. It was a 9 hours round trip for me and my SpyderZXT made it home OK. Too bad I couldn't stay overnight to hang out with the guys. Maybe next time. I will definitely try to make it to the Z convention next year. Later...

Steve, I have an air drill and it's small enough to get in that spot without a problem. Thanks for the heads up. Dan Juday, Thanks for the info on the drive shaft.

Thanks DaleMX. I did a measurement of the 4L60E and it looks like I should not have to remove the re-enforcement piece. It will be a PITA if I have to remove that piece. Anyway I have a few pictures of the stock exhaust header that I cut up and rotate them to get them to clear the TC mounts. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2079260/2 Also I had removed the old engine mounts. I am trying to make a little tab to mount the alternator to the lower driver side. I will try to keep the AC compressor in the stock location (lower passenger side) . It will be very tight from the measurements I made with the AC compressor and the alternator on. PS. Dale I have a 77 Z

Thanks for the replies. I was just wondering what you guys are using because I hardly find any steel driveshaft on Ebay. I definitely want to go with the steel driveshaft cuz I can do the welding at home and bring it to the shop for balancing. One more question: When you guys removed the old tranny mounts did you have to remove the whole re-enforcement piece that weld to the tunel too? This is the V shape piece that the tranny mounts spot welded to. Thanks Vinh PS. I am in the process of trial fitting the engine and building the mount like Cyrus and Machoir did. I will slot my support beam so that I can move the engine side to side (not much). I am also paying very close attention to the straightness of the driveline relative to the original driveline. I am measure the old driveline (L6) relative to several points to the car/frame and then when I put the LS1 motor in I can do the same measurements. This will get me as close as possible to the original driveline. This hopefully will have no vibrations at the end. I will be using the stock headers and they both are interfered by the TC mounting tab. I have just solve this problem by cutting the lower pipe of the header (where it was welded) and pull them apart. Now I can just rotate the lower piece a bit inward and they should be cleared of the TC mounts. Will post pictures in a bit..

Guys, Anyone using the aluminum driveshaft? If so how do you adapt/weld it to your flange to mount to the Z? Is the driveshaft the same for the auto and manual? I am shopping around for a driveshaft for my LS1 project. Thanks

Dave, Thanks for the ride. That was a scary ride. The tranny I bought from you is basically the same as the one I have from the Vette. Look like I can just swap over the bell housing and the tail housing and I can use the Vette Tranny. I will keep yours for spare. Thank you again. V.