Jump to content
HybridZ

sweetride2go

Members
  • Posts

    313
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About sweetride2go

  • Birthday 11/20/1980

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Vancouver, WA

Recent Profile Visitors

7388 profile views

sweetride2go's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

10

Reputation

  1. Same here. Used a heavy duty stock replacement and working fine after many thousands of miles of abuse. If your engine is mostly stock I would save some money versus those fancy high performance clutches. That, and the drivability will be much nicer (clutch will engage nicer and have a lighter pedal feel). Cheers Ryan~
  2. I think there is a strong majority who run manual steering(stock). Probably fewer than 5% of us hybrid guys are running a PS swap. I don't think it is a popular or necessary swap to do. My Z handled fine with the manual rack, only suffering in parking lots at slow speeds or where dry steering had to be done...
  3. Jonny, I would try routing your intake like this guy did on his pathy, but I don't know if you will have the hood clearance. Obviously you won't have to worry about the intercoolers... http://i698.photobucket.com/albums/vv342/novamadness/DSC00896.jpg
  4. Time for an update: Crankcase breathing is done via one catch can. It pulls fresh air from the passenger side intake into the engine. From the other side it pulls crankcase gasses from the valve cover into a catch can, and from the catch can to a PCV valve on the drivers side of the plenum. I had this running with out the catch can and the engine accumulates oil in the intake. It's surprising how much oil and water the catch can accumulates, probably a pint in between oil changes. I have 12,000 miles on it now and no real problems to report. I did have to change the IAC valve, this fixed dieing issues when accelerating and idling issues. Also had a dead short I couldn't find for a while and it ended up being the 'air meter', which is a cold start feature on the back of the intake that allows additional air to pass during cold start. Apparently it was wired to a constant hot, fixed that and now it starts a lot easier and no more charging batteries. yay. The oil smoking went away, apparently just a break in issue. Still running only 6lbs of boost, just haven't gotten to installing the boost controller. The truck runs really strong! Im actually hardly in the boost unless im passing someone or climbing a steep hill. Average mileage is appx. 20mpg.
  5. I have a clunk, but I have found a worn spline on my right rear stub axle. Guess it is time to do bearings...
  6. I believe it is a Dana 44 diff, but don't know the code...
  7. I am using a Weir kit as well, but would source another way of doing it if repeating the process. Actually if repeating, I would sell the T56 and go with a WC T5. Anyways, I am running a Ram clutch/pressure plate with a McLeod steel flywheel with Weir's Hydraulic throwout(wich is a PITA to bleed). Cheers
  8. Ya, Eagle Alloy series 28 in a deep dish is nearly impossible to find in a 4 lug anymore, so I had to compensate. Some day, funds allowing, I will venture into 17" wheels and hopefully be able to ditch the spacers all together.
  9. If you gut the Autometer and just trim the lip off the cup it will fit in perfectly, and appear almost stock, except for the orange needle. I like that it was easy to program, not hard to install, and still works! Unlike several of my much more expensive Speedhut/Revolution gauges on my other project...
  10. +1 on the larger master. I had to go to a 1" for my T56, something with the datsun clutch pedal geometry wouldn't allow for full travel on the master, so I compensated with a larger bore. Unfortunately, this made the pedal stiffer. :/
  11. Looks like a limiting strap in the circled area?
  12. That spreadsheet is awesome! However, I noticed there isn't a listing for the R30A's that come in the nissan pickups. Wouldn't the gearsets be swappable from those as well?
  13. I ran into similar problems with my first build. The fan would kick on and my belt would squeal at low rpm's. I also have burnt through a few relays. But since then I have been running 60/70amp relays with no problems, and since I rewired the car I no longer have rpm drop or belt slippage issues. On the old car I found a crimp connector that I had used that had a bad connection and was half black. Make sure your connections are good!
  14. I ran a larger radiator with a Taurus fan, but the radiator fit nicely between the rails and on the JTR radiator cradle. Ryan~
×
×
  • Create New...