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Showing results for tags '77'.
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(Not sure where to post this) I cross posted this to members projects as well. Hello, Was browsing multiple forums and decided to try out Hybridz for advice. I bought a 1977 280z Frankenstein of a car with an '83 280zx turbo engine swap in 2014 for around five grand. I drove it around for a year or so and it died on me after removing the previous owners sound system. Life got in the way and the car had a parasitic draw and sat for around 15 months. I just brought it to a shop and had the fuel system flushed with new filters, however, got robbed on the price in my opinion. I did some general maintenance (oil, spark plugs, coolant) and have been driving it around for the past week. The car is far from stock and I was hoping some of you guys could help me by identifying what I have. Any help is much appreciated! Below is a numbered imgur album. Sorry it is alot of pictures. My knowledge is weak and I know I need to find a service manual, but I don't know where to start. Its pretty fast when the turbo kicks in, I believe its running around 12 pounds of boost if the gauge is accurate. Definitely kicks your head back. http://imgur.com/a/4uGkb
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Like the title says! Must be matching, and must be from those 2 years. Older style locks won't work. Also considering buying just an ignition and driver's side locks that match from those years. Please have pictures so I can confirm the locks are of the correct type. PM me with offers!
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hello Hybridz, the other day i was getting the z ready for a car meet, so a thorough cleaning. i got there fine but when i tried to leave the car would barley start and cylinders 4 and 5 would not fire. me and another gentleman cleaned the distributor out and then cylinder 5 started to fire, but still not cylinder 4. it has to be something to do with the distributor "cap" because the wire is barley getting any spark.you can here cylinder 4 rarely fire like it got enough of a charge to ignite. i tried another wire but still not change, oh and if i leave the wire off the spark plug the car seems to run better, not sure why that is. your opinions would be greatly appreciated!
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hey guys, so i have had this problem since the day i bought my 77 280z, and nobody has been able to help me fix it.the problem: when it first started it would sputter and backfire at about 3000 rpm and get worse as i drove it. as time went on the problem got increasingly worse and became kinda undrivable. I found started investigating and found that the fuel pump would pulse and shut off then return "repeat". this would obviously cause the engine to starve for fuel and sputter or stop firing all together. well i bought a brand new "presumably a real walbro 255 fuel pump" and replaced the stock fuel pump with the walbro. the z ran amazing for about a month and a half. then started sputtering, backfiring,dying, just like before. at a glance it seems the fuel pump went out again but i find it hard to believe that it would just burn up and die in a month, although i have ran under a half tank about the entire time its been installed, but i didn't think it mattered much on a external pump. it has to be something electrical,fuel pump, afm, tps,realy, something along those lines. As of now the 280z is litraly un-derivable. it will start and run great for about 3 seconds then starts acting up, i can drive it for about 50 feet then it gets so bad to the point were the pump is barely functioning and cant touch the throttle without it dying, it eventually just dies. im at a loss here guys, this is my baby and would love to drive her on the road once more. help or opinions would be greatly appreciated additional -info: when i turn the key too acc the pump comes on and stays on. "i don't think this is normal" - the afm that is on the car right now might be from a zx, the owner gave me a box of parts and there was a was looks to be a zx n/a afm, i know that some people do the zx afm conversion. i also know that the early 77 280z had a fuel pump cut off switch in the afm's and the later ones did not and it was run from the oil pressure sensor. from what i can see the OPS operates just find and when it is unplugged it does not in anyway effect the pump or running status of the z. - the only thing on the car that i know does not work properly is the temp sensor. but i know that thats the reason its making the car run lean,if that was the issue that doesn't enplane why it ran great with a brand new pump.