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Showing results for tags 'battery'.
Found 5 results
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Hi all: Would love some opinions on how to address my battery tray area (pics below). So far I've spent about 30 minutes with sand paper and a mini (1/2") belt sander, and things are looking better. There's some pitting, but nothing too serious from what I can tell. Advice needed: What's the best way to get under the tray to remove remaining rust? What tools are folks using for this? Once that's done, what cleaner(s) are be used once as much rust as possible is removed? Once it's cleaned, what should I apply to prevent future rust? POR-15? Something else? I'd like to avoid removing the battery tray if possible/practical. Thanks in advance, Jughead
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electrical Weird Electrical Problem(s)?
skillinp posted a topic in Trouble Shooting / General Engine
Hello all, long time, no see. Which is good since I typically only come here when something is bad... anyway I've got this problem, see? Started a bit ago, a little trouble getting the car to start. Classic *click* when I'd turn the key. Checked wiring on my starter, since one has come off in the past leading to this problem... not this time. I rock the car a little in desperation (I'm on a dirt road, quite far from civilization at this point) and somehow it starts up. Whew, I think. I get home. Try turning it on again? Click. all wires connected. OK, must be the battery. I get a jump from a neighbor, run it for a while and I turn on the lights to see how it's going. This kills it. Well. Not going to bug the neighbor again, wait for my girl to come home. Jump it, run over to the neighborhood Napa. Guy comes out to test the battery and alternator. He says battery is bad, alternator is good. I had to jump it to get this tested. Jump again to drive over to AutoZone because I still have the battery under warranty until March (Bought it just shy of two years ago). Guy verifies battery is no good, I replace it, but not before brushing the cables free of any possible corrosion. Car won't start. I jump it to go home because I don't know what else to do, and I need to get to work asap anyway at this point, so now I'm borrowing my girl's car for work. Thanks babe! But still not sure about this car. I have a multimeter that I am a little familiar with, use it to test the ground, and it's good. I jump it again and decide to just run it a bit to see if the battery was just dead from the store (it had almost no charge at this point). I run for a little bit and LO! There's smoke coming out of the dash vents on the driver's side! Electrical smell. Great. I'm about to pull the dash apart, which I've never done before and am not looking forward to because my best guess is a short somewhere in there. It's not a well-educated guess. Any ideas? Car info: '73 240z with l28 and upgraded windshield wiper motor ('94 Accord, I believe) and upgraded MSA fuse box, both of which were done over two years ago. no radio, no A/C, no heat connected (core just sitting there) and none of that has been changed/touched in years. -
UPDATE: After completing the install my alternator isn't charging the battery. Please see the post at the bottom of the page So I have a '75 280z and recently I've noticed my headlights get brighter when I rev the car. (Both in neutral at stand still and in motion) I also noticed that my dash lights and interior lights get brighter as well. The headlights are also very dim whether or not the car is revving or not, revving only brightens them a little and overall they're still dim. The A/C fan also gets louder and blows harder when revving. So somehow all of these problems are connected to something and I'm at a loss on what to do next. I've been reading a lot about this and my best guess is there's a problem with the grounds. If so, where are the grounds located? My problem isn't with the lights/fan getting brighter, but a possible problem with low voltage getting to these systems at idle (or in general) What do you guys think could be the source of all this? Sorry for the barrage of questions but I'm new to electrical gremlins and it's all especially confusing to me. Thanks for any help -
Hi Z Forum, For the past couple days my battery hasn't been charging. I've replaced the alternator and belt. Before this was happening, to get it to charge I'd have to rev my engine to about 3000 RPM. The engine I have is a L24 with an E31 head. Any Ideas? Thanks.
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I've been eyeing the space I could recapture if I were to move the battery. This would involve getting a dry cell and placing it somewhere. I know it's common to move it to the trunk of the passenger compartment, but I don't like that for a few reasons: Would require heavy-duty mounts to keep it from becoming a deadly projectile Those mounts would require marring up my beautiful trunk area. I don't want to lose space in the trunk area. Looking under the car there's plenty of space for a Braille or similar battery in between the fuel tank and the mustache bar. Both passenger and driver sides have space, but I would probably take advantage of the extra shielding that the passenger side offers, as well as keeping the battery weight on the right side of the vehicle. My goal is first and foremost to free up space in the engine bay so I can move what was formerly the fusible links in that corner. Any weight shifting (positive or negative) would be secondary to that. To eliminate potentially dangerous sparking that would occur when messing with the terminals, I would wire in a cut-off switch in the battery tray area in the engine bay. So, besides the obvious possible sparks when messing with the terminals, what other downsides are there? Road debris? Water? I don't drive in the rain, but it's not something I'd like to have to fear my car going up in flames because of. I don't see that being more than a corrosion problem due to the low voltage though. My idea thus far is to make a steel frame, possibly fully enclosed on the front, to contain the battery. This would be bolted in place. The wires would be routed in the passenger compartment up to the battery tray in the engine bay. One would be connected to a battery cut-off switch. Then to the starter and fusible links as normal. Alternatively, I could make a frame to hold plastic battery boxes, as I see on diesels a lot.
