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Inspired by the Head cooling on cylinder #5 thread (http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/59029-head-cooling-on-cylinder-5-solutions/), I decided to make my own diagrams of the cooling system for US Z/ZX L6 engines. I had to exaggerate and diminish a few proportions to maintain decent flow while using a flat layout. These charts are as accurate as far as my knowledge and research have shown so far. I will gladly accept any corrections and update accordingly. The year cutoffs are approximate and do not reflect all of the small month-to-month changes of course. On the ZX diagrams, some cars got the throttle body heaters while others didn't. I left them in both diagrams just to cover all the bases. I did spend a fair bit of time on these, so if they do happen to find their way elsewhere on the web, make sure at the very least to cite where they came from. Red = oil passages Blue = water passages and flow direction Yellow = direction of water flow in flexible hoses 1970-1974 240Z / 260Z 1975-1978 280Z 1979-1980 280ZX 1981-1983 280ZX

I think I better start firstly with a quick intro. Hello from the Wide Bay area of sunny Queensland in Australia. I’m a long time ‘guest’ lurker to the HybridZ forums mainly for research and ideas particularly when it comes to round top Hitachi SUs. I’ve loved Z cars since I first laid eyes on one in my early teens when I went to a historic race meeting at a local track with a friend’s family (who also have an affiliation with Datsun 1600/510). There was no escaping the ensuing obsession. This was only made worse by the inception of the Fast and Furious franchise coincidently at the same time I acquired my learners driver licence. I am shamed to say I have had at least one car with “cool” under body neons…. On to the car! This particular car is a 1971 chassis number #629 purchased in 2009. The car was a daily driver retaining the L24 and had a 280ZX gearbox and ignition. I believe it was Victorian sold in a blue colour and was repainted to red in the late 80s or early 90s (judging by the Australian fashion sense in the photos). I have maintained continuous registration of the car as well. The car has had various levels of priority around my life choices and events. I think I put less than 1000 miles on it between 2010 and 2017, is this considered Datsun abuse? I am now at a stage where I can tinker with it more and crack on with a long time goal to leave a legacy of my experiences and information on YouTube and lessor so on Instagram. One immediate goal is to try for 200WHP with only optimisations to fuel, ignition and exhaust. There are gaps to the story thus far which I intend to fill in with further posts. I want to keep this post short and sweet. Cheers, Neubs PS. The current specs are: ENGINE (currently making 170WHP) - Overbored and stroked to 2996cc - Approx. 10-10.5:1 compression ratio - L28 F54 block - L28 N42 head, 1.0mm O/S Ferrea Super Flo valves and match ported - ‘V07’ LD28 crank, balanced, knife edge and nitrided surface - L24 connecting rods - Modified Mistubishi pistons - Crow Cam camshaft; - 292° duration 0.495” valve lift intake - 296° duration 0.510” valve lift exhaust - Innovate Motorsports LM-2 datalogger and wide band O2 sensor COOLING - Ebay 75mm alloy radiator - 2 thermo fans - 280ZX thermostat with Tridon temp switch IGNITION - Pertronix Ignitor I module - MSD 6A ignition - L24 distributor with ‘7.5 plate’ and vac advance FUEL DELIVERY - Rebuilt round top 240Z Hitachi SU carbs with ZTherapy rebuild kit - SM needles with higher set fuel float level - Holly Red fuel pump EXHAUST - ZStory stainless steel Race/Sport headers - ZStory stainless steel Z432 style JDM muffler - Recycled mild steel centre pipe and generic hotdog muffler TRANSMISSION - 71C RB20DET gearbox - Exedy ceramic clutch and pressure plate DIFFERENTIAL - Standard rebuilt open centre 3.9:1 R180 - Standard uni joint drive shafts BODY - Restored Japan polyurethane front bar INTERIOR - Stock (and very worn out) - 280ZX modified tacho SUSPENSION - Stock springs - Stock brakes - Stock geometry components - Koni adjustable shock absorbers ROLLING STOCK - Rota RB-R

Hey guys, I recently bought a 240z and it ended up having more rust than I originally thought, thus begins my new winter project. Pulling her home with my 1987 2WD Toyota Pickup. That was a long haul between northeast of Sacramento and Southern California. The truck performed well though! The car sat for a while and the engine internals have rusted. The overview plan is to pull the engine, fix the front half of the car's rust problems, swap the SUs from the L24 to my rebuilt L28, install the engine, and drive it while fixing other things (interior). Some hood damage. Hopefully I can bump these out. Starting to inspect for rust on the passenger side frame rail/firewall interface. It's definitely in need of some work. Inside engine bay rail. Engine removal In preparation for cutting into frame rails I dropped the front suspension to remove as much stressed from the rails as possible. Stand I welded up to support car from the transmission mounts. I've made a little more progress -- started making patch panel templates and cutting metal from the battery tray area. It looks like I'm going to be replacing a lot of metal around the battery tray area -- frame rail, battery tray inner fender, a piece of the firewall, and passenger side floor pan. Hopefully driver side isn't this bad.

I have 10-20k to spend on a clean car. Is anyone looking to sell? I'm willing to have it shipped to me or drive to pick up the car

Hello Everyone. I am looking to purchase an S30 with a manual that is in decent shape. Don't care about model (Coupe or 2+2) or year. Just an S30. Not too much rust or no rust and something that runs. It can be ugly just want to not have to do tons of rust repair. I'm looking for a light project not a complete ground up overhaul. I'm located in Coal City, IL. My contact information is bkhansen93@gmail.com or 8154053050. Will be willing to speak to anyone who has something to sell. Just reach out to me.

I am selling my 1973 Datsun 240Z. Bought as roller without engine/trans in 2011/2012. Previous owner/s have changed the roof and various parts, so some of the stuff i pulled out was off a 260z/ 280z and there might still be some mixed parts on it. That and all the modifications pretty much eliminate this as a show car. Do not buy this thinking it can be restored to show car quality. It would take far more than would make economic sense. This is purely made to run quick/fast, not to look pretty. It's raw and needs muscle to be driven. It has manual brakes without booster and manual steering without power assistance. You need to be strong like bull. But it is rewarding! If you dare you can get 0-60 in just over 4 seconds, while carrying a passenger. I've never felt the need to put effort into it, but I am certain it'll crack the 4 second mark if you just lower the tire pressure... This is a great handling, light weight car with balls! Once you get used to its noise and raw roughness or like me, fall in love with it, this car is AWESOME! Took it to tracks and autocross events and thoroughly enjoyed the @#$% out of it every time i drove it, but I am almost done building me next racecar and I need the funds to focus and finish it up... Now to the great things about this car. I'm just going to list as much as I can and I'll save some details for when you come to see it: SOLID 1997 Pontiac Trans Am LT1 V8 with 310 hp at around 5250 rpm and a torque curve that starts well above 320 ft. lbs. from the word go all the way into the rev limiter. Max torque 340 ft. lbs. Stand-alone engine harness and Howell Engineering computer, tune-able, obviously T56 manual 6-speed transmission out of the same 1997 Pontiac Trans Am S1 Sequential Shifter that translates forward/ backward motion into the H-pattern - yeah, it's awesome! R200 rear diff with a fantastic Quaife ATB torque biased helical limited slip differential upgrade and 3.545 final drive ratio Nissan Armada CV jointed half shafts LED sealed beam replacement headlights with aero covers Both, front and back bumpers lightened (not good for crash resistance, so be aware) Fiberglass bumper covers, front and back, front with lower air dam Fiberglass fenders Fiberglass hood with vents and secured by lockable aerocatch latches Fiberglass cowl Fiberglass flares Wilwood brakes (almost 13" all around) with 6 piston front calipers and 4 piston rears - high temp fluid, track disks, track pads, biasing valve installed Complete Arizona Z car suspension kit with billet control arms etc pp, which keeps the rear control arms straight while the vehicle is lowered! 5-lug Rota wheels 17x9 front and 17x9.5 rear with Nitto NT01s in 255/40/17 fronts and 275/40/17 rears Autopower bolt in 10 point roll cage NRG hub and deep dish steering wheel with quick disconnect and lockable cover Custom light weight polycarbonate dash board Dakota Digital gauge cluster with 0-60 timer and 1/4 mile timer and couple neat functions Ignition activated dash cam with GPS Corbeau racing seats on sliders, forth and back adjustable! Schroth ASM harness belts Fuel-Safe bladder fuel tank with functioning level sensor and external high flow filter and Mallory pump Fiberglass deck lid spoiler American Autowire chassis harness Clean California title Made in 1973, this car is PRE-smog and does not have to go to smog inspection! Current registration Asking price $12,500.00 Located in San Diego

So I can find a ton of posts about the main hoop needing to have only 4 bends and those bends cannot exceed 180 degrees when totaled up. The problem is, I can;t find that in the nasa or SCCA rule books. Is that an actual rule? My cage builder bent this main hoop for me, I am just verifying before I have him re-do it as it would open up some space. Thanks! Here is a picture for reference, notice how the hoop bends around the rear wheel tub.

After looking everything over and doing some digging I came to the conclusion that using 65 mustang hubs on 240z spindles is not a cost effective solution for big brakes. I am now looking into a ball joint adapter that bolts to the control arm of the 204z and uses press in 2014 mustang ball joints. I intend to use this in conjunction with 2004 Subaru wrx coil over struts to allow the use of 5 lug 2014 mustang hubs and brakes. Which are 5x114.3 The intent is to have the outer wheel mount flange be pushed out roughly 35mm.... effectively converting our cars from a "zero offset" wheel to a "plus 35mm" wheel... aka just like the 300z and the 240sx, Toyota supra etc... It's a front steer, rear caliper spindle just like the stock 240z, once I know what the bump steer geometry will be I will have a clearer picture of things. Someone could use a widebody or flared setup if they chose to run a zero offset wheel, or use cheap and readily available 350z wheels and have stock track width. Let me know if anyone has any input on this. Good idea, bad, etc...

Hey Guys, I have been trying to figure out what I wanted to do for color uniformity on my datsun. I really wanted to get the car sand blasted and do a complete overhaul, but after swapping a l28et in the car, building and installing the megasquirt, and all the other tid bits... I was way over budget to say the least. To be cost effective I decided to do a vinyl wrap. 3m vinyl to do the whole car was only 500 bucks! The car itself was in no shape for vinyl. It had chips, dings, rust, you name it. I had to do all the body work to straighten it out. Here is some before pictures. The paint had to be sanded or removed to metal and bondo was applied. First time ever really doing body work and it looked OKAY. I did have a professional come and do the final things to the driver's side fender and door. Lots of chipping paint that needed to be sanded. After things were sanded and looked pretty good, spray can primer was sprayed on the trouble spots, then sanded, then black rustoleum, then sanded. Finally I wet sanded the car with 1000 grit and made sure all surfaces were smooth. Then the fun began. Vinyl took around 20 hours to finish in a weekend. This did not include the headlight buckets, turn signals, or cowling which I am still trying to figure out. The car being unibody caused issue. The rear bumper section is 1 piece which is then overlapped 1 inch by the quarter panel which is then overlapped by the roof. Knifeless tape was key to get smooth lines. The hood is harder then it looks because of the round center bubble. Really have to stretch and pull to get in on right. Also getting the vinyl to stick properly on the back required cleaning all edges and even applying loctite super glue.... I know not the right way, could use primer 94, but actually works! Just don't get that near any exterior surfaces or you will leave marks on the laid vinyl. Fenders are one of the easiest. Tucking around the wheel arch was a little tough. Make sure to clean these back areas so that no dirt is in between were you want the vinyl to stick on the inside. This is were I started to notice that my rusto paint would start to peel if we kept taking off and re-applying the vinyl. There are spots were you can see this for sure, but oh well.... it cost 500 dollars. Also you would get specs of shit for the same reason, small pieces of paint peeling up. Moral of the story. Only works on really good paint or paint that is strong against the body. Should have spent more time in that regard. Rear bumper area was pretty easy just a flat piece. The quarter panels were the most difficult. Trying to get around the rain gutter was a challenge. We accidentally cut the vinyl and had to pivot to a new plan regarding the roof. Paint was peeling up if we removed it so we went with what we got. If we were to peel it off... I would have to sand the whole quarter panel over again. Made it work, just needed to add an intermittent piece between the quarter panel and roof. Getting around the back taillight area was a little hard as you really need to stretch it. I assumed the inner edge would mostly be hidden by the taillight panel, but more is exposed then I thought. Might try to adjust this better. Roof and hatch were also pretty difficult. If you have old shitty gaskets around the glass. CHANGE THEM. Tucking underneath that shit would have been way harder than it already was. I got new rubber were needed and it was way worth it. If you mess up on a part like that... there goes 70 bucks in vinyl to redo it. Tucking worked best with knifeless tape in my opinion. Don't forget the sides of the windshield... I used a small inlay for that. Also the bottom area below the door is an inlay. Here is the vinyl result.... get it... vinyl result Might keep the windshield wiper area black... its scary when you see all the spots were it needs to be cut! Here is a picture of how we did the inlays from quarter panel to roof. It turned out pretty damn good if I say so myself. I have learned a lot about this process as I went because there is not too much info about unibody cars. I would say that this is a pretty difficult job and very tedious. Details are important, missing a cut or making a mistake can make it look bad. We had mistakes, bumps, paint chips you name it, but the point of this was to get the car looking good for a couple years for cheap until I am ready to get the car painted. What I would suggest if you want to do this... - Make everything really smooth. - If painting, take your time and get it to stick well. Paint peeling and sticking to the vinyl was the biggest issue I experienced. - Have a friend. My dad worked the whole time with me.... I can't thank him enough. I did a trial hood before all this on my own and it took 2 times as long and looked way worse. - Plan out all the cuts before you apply. Thought I would share my experience. If you have any questions about it let me know. I hope to reassemble the car in the next 2 weeks.

I see a few posts in here but I am looking for more specifics if anyone has any input or wants to try and convince me toward a direction go ahead but. I want to do a clean build (no junkyard shit) that I can take on road trips and whatnot, maybe on weekends and all that. I have heard horror stories of horrid MPG and being in the shitty state of CA id like to keep in the friendlier numbers of MPG. I am also not shy of HP so I was looking into RB26 swaps, Chevy V8, etc. Since I am a bit new am I going to run into shit with some setups, huge costs? Any info would be great or links to good posts.

After much thought on whether or not I wanted to create a full thread of my first 240z build I have decided that it would be worth it in the long run and nice to look back to. I will have about a year to catch up with then I will continue to update as the build goes on. Backstory: I bought this Miata when I was a senior in high school. I wanted to see if I was truly passionate about cars and if I enjoyed working on them/driving them. This car was a blessing and a curse, I quickly found out that I loved cars and all of my money would be taken by them. Fast forward and I had supercharged it with all the basic Miata mods. The car was extremely fun, but it was not a car that I saw myself keeping for the long run and I had this long list of parts/mods I wanted to do to it. I had always wanted a few cars but they were just out of my price range; 240z, s2000 and a few old muscle cars. I thought about it and decided that if I was going to pour tons of money and time into a car I wanted it to be a car I wanted to keep and loved the looks of, not just enjoyed the drive. Once I had made this decision I was a sophomore in college and began the long search for a Z. I spent about 9 months of searching everyday for a s30, primarily looking at 240zs.

Hello! I have a 1973 Datsun 240z that I plan on putting an 800hp 2JZ in but obviously need to work on some chassis strengthening before I rip the thing apart with that much power. Here is a short list of items I found posted by the late John Coffey himself for a streetable car: 1. Seam Weld (every sheet metal seam overlap.) 2. Bad Dog Subframe Connectors 3. Weld-In Roll Bar. 4. Welded In Rear STB. 5. Triangulated Front STB. 6. Radiator Core Support Reinforcement. 7. Transverse Link Bracing Reinforcement. 8. RT Diff Mount. 9. Tubular Seat Mounts. 10. Box Upper Frame Horns to Firewall/Cowl. 11. Reinforce Pedal Box/Brake MC Mount. 12. Reinforce Front ARB Mount. 13. Reinforce Front Strut Tower to Frame Rail Junction. I plan on doing some competitive drag racing, roll racing, track days, and driving the car around just about everywhere! I have a very clean paint job on the car and the body is nearly perfect, so repainting the car/pulling out glass isn't really something I'd like to do. However, I think pulling everything else off the car and putting it on a rotisserie would make the seam welding much easier as well as the frame rails and such and I can live with that. I would LOVE to hear from you guys that have done this and if you were able to preserve the paint and glass on the car. This is a pretty big undertaking so I'd like to prepare myself as much as possible before jumping into this huge project.

Hello forums, first post here. I’ve been sifting through these forums for awhile and cannot seem to find the answer to my question. A friend and I are restoring/making a track car of a ‘73 240z I picked up recently. We’re currently stripping it down to a bare shell to mount on a rotisserie for sand blasting, but ran into an area of bad rot on the air duct under the front fender. Is this area highly structural? Im wondering if anyone has tackled replacing metal in this spot or cutting it all out and replacing it with tubes? Any suggestions? Thank you! Here’s the goals with this car by the way: -streetable track car, will be driven only now and then, not a daily or a dedicated track only car -plans are to drop an RB in it, not sure which one yet, and have it built to around 350-450whp -would like to keep the stock locations of the suspension components as i do not want to mess with the geometry -will have a full roll cage p.s. moderators I did not mean to post this multiple times, it was giving me an error and I didn’t think it posted. Was also told my previous posts weren’t working because of the apostrophe in the title. Sorry!

Hello Hybridz Members! Three piece spoiler for Datsun s30 240z 260z 280z Product is made from fiberglass with a flat black primer finish. Hence, spoiler is not a finished product ready for paint. This spoiler has 2 mount holes in center piece and 2 on each individual corner. It also has 2 threaded inserts in center piece and 1 on each individual corner.Quality and fitment are really good, all spoilers are brand new and never installed. some modification might be needed for perfect fitment. Price $280 shipped! - I can provide a discount for a group buy (5 minimum) Item ships from California* Local pick up available Payment: Paypal or cash for local pick up Any questions please feel free to send a PM

Just bough this BEAUTIFUL 1971 240Z from Texas without even seeing the car in person. I'm amazed How clean this car is. Frame is straight and rust is extremely minimal. All the regular rust areas are clean! I have a rebuilt LT1 and 4l60e with zero miles, planning on selling the 4l60e and getting a T56. Anyway Here is the car, I started stripping it for paint. Will pull drive train tomorrow after I get my cherry picker back from my friend. He borrowed it 2 years ago

Gather around folks I'm building my dream car. Some may know me here, some may not. I've been building nissans for 15 years now. My last personal build started in 2009 on this forum but I stopped documenting after 2011. I just sold my entire setup to my best friend, which I also sold my 2nd 240z too. So I'm starting to document a new chapter in my build. I tore down my black car and we are completely rebuilding my friends orange one better than ever. The original setup was amazing, never let me down. R34 NEO motor, GT35R, Tein coilovers with edfc, clsd, axles, wilwoods.... etc. This brings us to my new build and it's current state on my rotisserie waiting to get massacred. I'll post some photos and get this ball rolling Donor car was an ever so gracious R33 GTR Vpec, 90% of parts came from the same car. I will be grafting front and rear sub frames into my Z chassis, including the AWD system, Brembos, suspensions (tein), Axles, Diff, etc from the GTR... I've even gone ahead and gotten the GTR pedel set and Master so she should feel as GTR as possible from inside. Steering column, steering rack all modern and hydraulic (and left hand drive ) I've collected 90% of the bizarre hardware associated with the awd system too. Also will be doing GTR gauges, chassis strengthening, new wiring, wheels, so on and so forth.... My old car was quite the track beast, I intend to make this one deadlier than ever. More so I just love building so I'm doing it Grab some popcorn, this ones going to take a minute!

I purchased this dash over 5 years ago but never used it. I believe it was an alternative dash for use with Vela Rosa or Thunder Ranch GTO kits. Anyone have an idea of worth, or have a need? I'll probably ebay it. PM me with any thoughts

so for some reason when i flip the turn signal switch the signal turns on but it just stays on it doesn't flash how it is suppose to and also my hazard switch doesn't work don't know if the two problems relate. would anyone know the fix. -thanks

Looking for 1973 Datsun 240z body hood emblems and scripts

Looking for black rubber trip pieces for front and rear bumpers and bumper guards

Looking for black rubber trip pieces for front and rear bumpers and bumper guards

This came in a 240z I got a few years ago, I parted the car out as a friend of a friend wanted something for an lsx swap and my uncle has been trying to sell me his 240z for ages. The z I bought from my uncle has a rebuilt numbers matching original motor so I’m not changing it. This L28 came from a 280z and is supposedly built. Unsure what it has, could be just a cam, I wasn’t the one who put it together. N42 block, N47 head. Turns by hand. Remanufactured starter. Intake and exhaust manifolds were on until I just removed them, it wasn’t sitting exposed. L28’s originally came in 280z’s but they can be used in 240z’s with carbs, an electric fuel pump, and ignition control (I have a Crane kit and a GM unit people often use available). $675 6-1 header available separately $195. Round top SU carb complete setup available extra with motor. Located in Buffalo, NY, I’d drive across the border in exchange for a bottle of vodka from the duty free heh Text or call 716-7two5-5366

Hi guys. I hadn't come across your site before (my loss), the fine folks at Z Car Club of Washington suggested I post my car here. 1973 Datsun 240z in beautiful condition, ready to drive and cherish. You experts will have seen mods like this before. It's been fitted just a few months back with a 350ci Chevy crate V8 motor. Tidy install with T5 5-speed manual transmission, R200 differential, new clutch, flywheel, driveshaft, and aluminum radiator. Body recently repainted in its original silver, stock slim bumpers without overriders remain in place, and chrome bullet-style side mirrors added. Further alterations include 15x8" Rota wheels, lowering springs and new struts, 3-spoke Raid 1 steering wheel with Datsun horn button, fixed bucket seats with suede inserts. Goodyear Eagle tires dated 2015, plenty of tread. The passenger side taillight is cracked, though I have a replacement unit to swap. Also have chin spoiler for fitting if desired (I prefer without). Factory stereo and clock don't work (I just use a bluetooth speaker). Always garaged, no rust or other trouble to the best of my knowledge. I have the engine paperwork and clean title. Basically this is a gorgeous car that you could drive every day or keep for special occasions. I actually have not owned it very long, the only reason I'm selling is that my new house has a steep curb/driveway (both up and down) and I can't get this car in/out without dragging the exhaust, even with my curb bridge in place. I'm very sad about that, but it looks like it's time for a new owner to enjoy the car. I am happy to provide more photos/video or show the car to anyone interested here in Seattle. $19k OBO

I'm trying to get my new Series 1 240Z project car started, and it looks like the original fuel pump isn't working. I bought a replacement, but the bottom bolt snapped in half while I was removing the original. Now I have half of that bolt stuck in my block with no good way to pull it out. Does anyone out there have any good ideas? I've heard of people welding on nuts, but I've never welded in my life so I'm a little worried about trying it. Also, I'd like to get a replacement bolt for when I eventually pull that sucker out. Does anyone know what size bolt this is?

Does anyone have a diagram or a list of all the grommets and seals that at 240Z needs or where I could obtain that information ? I am needing every bit of rubber on my car but I want to make sure that I get every one that I need