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Showing results for tags 'crankshaft'.
Found 7 results
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I'm re-assembling the L24 out of my Series 1 240Z and just tried dropping the crankshaft in. It dropped in with a tiny bit more encouragement than I expected, but that center bearing was so tight that I couldn't turn the crank once it was in. I pulled the crank back out to investigate, and that bearing came with it! It was on so tight that I had to lightly hammer it off with the butt of my mallet to get it back off. I assumed that the bearing would have just slipped onto the journal rather than needing to be forced like that. My crankshaft was ground down by 0.25mm, but I can't imagine why that would make the thrust surfaces tighter. I measured the center bearing width and it came out to 32.12mm, but I have no idea if that's nominal or not. I couldn't get a good read on the crank width at the center journal with my calipers. This is my first time building an engine, so any advice is appreciated. Is this kind of interference fit expected here, or should I send my crank back to the machine shop, or just order new bearings? Thanks! See pictures below. The box that my bearings came in. These were provided by my machine shop. Caliper reading on the width of bearing. Notice that the back of the bearing is now scuffed up. When I tried turning the crank one way, the bearing tab prevented it from rotating. When I tried to turn it the other way, the bearing just rotated with the crank and scuffed a little material off its back as it went.
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My '75 280z engine looks like leaking oil from rear crankshaft oil seal. I'm about to order the oil seal part, http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/Datsun-Z-Index/Engine-280Z/Cylinder-Block Parts number is 12279-R4601 SEAL-OIL CRANKSHAFT It cost $40-$50 I saw someone is using 240SX part# 12279-5L310 It only cost around $10. http://www.pitroad-ts.com/tuning-page/tsuchiya240.htm I wonder those are interchangeable?
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Title says it all. Tried looking for a Professional Products 80055 pulley but there is a nationwide inventory shortage. Let me know if you have anything!
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Can anyone tell me the acceptable main bearing clearance for my L28ET build? (F54 block) I have a Chilton Guide and it is definitely mentioned to check that they are correct, but the actual acceptable clearance measurements are not listed. (2nd error/omission that I have found so far...) Anyone help please?
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Hello HybridZ, I have been in the process of rebuilding an L28 engine with mild cam i picked up for $250 with a 5 speed. The block is a F54 with N47 head and has P79 pistons. The previous owner said "it only needs new valve seals to run right"... So I hot tanked the block, installed new rings, valve seals, some bolts here and there, all gaskets, and seals...and some more parts (cant remember at the moment: nothing major though) Now that i am assembling the new engine, the rear main seal is of incorrect size. I originally ordered an aftermarket one off motorsport auto, but it does not match the one out of the block. I took it back, and tried my luck with black dragon's rear main seal...but that did not work either. So i spent all of today scouring the internet for the origin of this seal from my block. The original seal is labeled "NDK - angus", as well as "SGL2 80 100 13 si". Even searching the measurements did nothing for me. The guy who helped me at motorsport auto (i forget his name unfortunately) told me that all L6 motors from L24 through L28 turbo blocks use the size they offer, but it does not seem to fit. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I will post pictures shortly. - Wes
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Good day Hybridz readers, I have been on the watch for a Diesel Crankshaft for about a year and am almost to the point of ordering one from Kameari in Japan. Before I spend the mortgage on a L28D from them; I wanted to see if anyone here in the good ole USA has one. If you have the connecting rods as well that would be perfect. I am serious and ready to purchase now. Thank you for your time and consideration. Peter Thomas http://my260z.net
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I am looking for LD cranks. I am located in San Diego. Please send me the price and a couple of photos. Also, hopefully I can have my engine shop check it out and ask for a return if the crank is damaged (cracked, warped, and etc.) There are too many bad parts out there nowadays. Erik
