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Long time lurker turned builder. This thread will be slowly updated and the build may not be the most interesting, but I'd like to share/document. I've used this site for ideas and daydreams for about 8 years, so thanks everyone! My canvas is a 1970 series 1 240z with period modifications. Today was the first day I actually started work on the car, previously I was just trying to get the car running a little better by cleaning and rough tuning the carbs. I started by removing the previous owner's attempt at making a floor.... This left an even larger hole in the floor, perfect for cooling you down on a hot summer's day. The floors were cut out when I bought it and 2x3 frame tubing welded from the TC bracket to the rear rails. Unfortunately the rails were not even close to level, so that had to be fixed. One side almost leveled, but the floor and main frame rails are just the beginning... Time to save up a bit to buy an engine hoist.
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Hey everyone, I've got a 1976 S30. It's effectively stock as far as the EFI system goes, all I've done is change the plug wire connectors for the injectors and I've replaced the fuel send lines with new hose. Of course I also put a new filter on it after I got it as well. During the summer, it started having an issue where it would randomly lose engine power entirely for brief moments- a number of seconds, really. Then it would pick back up and drive normally. I thought it was just crud working its way through the lines from the gas tank and I wasn't too concerned about it. Shifting up a gear would usually make it stop. Then it started to bog down on the rare occasion. It would run rough, misfire, had no power, and wouldn't rev over 1500 rpm (or if it did, it went kicking and screaming). I would drive it for a minute and then it would start running normally. On my way to my first day at a new job last month, it died in my neighborhood and wouldn't start again. My dad and I were trying to push it back that night but it was tough since it was on a slight slope. He went to get the truck to pull it back and I decided to try starting it again to see what it would do. It caught a couple times and then finally coughed back to life. I changed the fuel pump thinking it was the old one going bad. I used an Airtex pump from O'Reilly (I know, you're probably rolling your eyes now) and installed a Fram G3 between the tank and the pump to keep tank crud from messing up the pump. It worked fine for a couple days and then the issue came back with a vengeance. As it sits now, the car idles fine. Driving it, it starts to stumble around 2500 rpm and the power cuts completely at ~3000 rpm. It's almost undriveable unless I'm really careful with how high I rev. Even then, it can be fussy. The general manager of the auto shop I work for knows the car really well so he helped me diagnose it on Saturday. He checked and adjusted the TPS and AFM. We tried a new computer since we had one laying around and there was no change. He checked for leaks on the intake and found none. He removed the vacuum from the FPR on the fuel rail and fuel pressure rose accordingly which, if I've read correctly, means that the FPR is functioning properly. The last thing we did was check fuel pressure (probably should have done that first but hindsight is always 20/20). It was running at 32 psi @ idle and under load (revving the car) it would dip to ~30 psi. If I'm correct about the FPR working properly, I've narrowed it down to 3 suspects: - The G3 filter I installed between the tank and the pump - The new pump - Fuel damper near the pump I read about people installing the G3 so I thought it was a good idea. The pump is new, but it is a random O'reilly brand. Since I was having issues before and after replacing the pump, that leads me to believe that the issue does not lie in the pump setup I installed. My old OEM pump was probably still working alright for its age. As I type this, the most plausible cause in my eyes would be the fuel damper. I'm not sure what the symptoms of a bad fuel damper are, however. Anyone have any suggestions? I'm going to try running it without the filter when I get the chance, but I've been obscenely busy the last few days. Thanks. Pac_Man
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hey guys, so the guy i bought my z from had some ugly body kit on it, the bulky fiberglass one. well i took that off and replaced it with the msa poly one http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l276/meat164colgs/Z141.jpg . well when i did this it made my front end rise almost a full inch. i dont have money to spend on quality coil overs but i want to try and buy some cheep coils that fit a 280 and slightly cut them. i know this is stupid and un-recommended but it will be temporary its all i can do right now. i will eventually go to ground control. -
I recently rebuilt my '82 l28et for my '77 and am having oil pump issues now. The car idles fine but with cold oil my mechanical only sees around 20 psi and as it warms it goes down to 12-15 like it use to. My worry worry is that with cold oil the car use to see 45-50 psi at idle and increase with revs to 60 or so. With revs the pressure never goes above 20 psi. I installed the pump and shaft like the "how to rebuild your datsun OHC" book states but ran into a problem with the oil squirt hole not lining up with the punch mark on the pump shaft gear. With the marks lined up the dizzy shaft end isn't even close to being lined up. When I line the tang of the dizzy side up to where it needs to be the marks on the shaft and pump housing no longer line up. The pump is off an '83 turbo motor where as the shaft is from the '82 motor. I don't see how the shaft mark needs to be lined up with the pump housing since the shaft just spins along with the motor but maybe I'm wrong in this thinking. I am planning on getting a different gauge to see if maybe my gauge is faulty. Taking the oil cap off I do see oil squirting up to the cam but I am not sure if it is a sufficient amount. Any ideas on what may be causing my lack of oil pressure. Oh and the oil pick up tube is free and clear from debris as well. Thanks guys, Kevin
