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Showing results for tags 'maxima'.
Found 5 results
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So I purchased these rear brackets from MSA, I installed everything they said to use , 85’ maxima calipers/pads(rear) , 82’ 280zx rotors(rear). It all mounts up fine, but the pads are only using about half, they don’t seem to fit all the all the way down using up all the rotor surface?? Has anyone else experienced this issue?
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Sooo, I thought of doing a small write up after I did this today, so this will not be my best write up... Pictures will suffer, but I tried to pull all the information together. I have added some generic pictures, and how to re-wire your car to use an internally regulated alternator. (not my instruction on how to rewire) First things first... WHY do I need to upgrade?! Well, if you're like me, I now two fuel pumps, two electric cooling fans, blah blah blah... When my car was at idle, I could hear the pumps complaining, and if my fans came on, forget about it. Was it a grounding issue? No, my car has a full painless rewire, and I have more grounds then girls you stalk on instagram. My initial upgrade was to an 84 maxima alternator. While this put out 60 amps, it definitely did not put out enough amps at idle. I am not sure if this lead to the death of 3 Odyessy batteries, but I will soon find out. On to what you came here for. My first want here was bolt in, as in no cutting, making a brackets. (I have power steering and didn't want to undo a bunch of stuff) This ruled out the GM alternators, as you have to cut up the stock bracket. I spent a few hours on rock auto searching for all the combinations, amp, ear locations and have come up with the below. 1994 SOHC Nissan Maxima GXE Alternator (i believe this starts in 1991 up to 1995) 1990-1995 Nissan Pathfinder Pulley OR 1990-1995 Nissan D21 Pick up Pulley (I ordered a 1992 pathfinder pulley and i know this works) The Maxima Alternator puts out 90 amps, but at idle put out 58 amps! I looked at the Nissan Quest, and while it puts out 110 amps, it only put out 41 amps. So the clear winner for me here was the Maxima. Plus, it would take no fabrication to "bolt in". (the idle amps may vary, but this is what i found after buying a whole heap of alternators at once) The Pulley: almost all the higher amp alternators use a ribbed belt, vs a V-belt. After much searching, the best combination was to find, purchase, junk yard the v-belt pulley from a Pathfinder and put that on the 90 amp Maxima alternator.I used an impact to swap the pulleys with a little red loc-tite. The Wiring: I didn't need to do this due to my Painless harness install, but if you are still stock read the following site! Or search how to swap to a later Datsun alternator for more details on going from an external regulated alternator. (if this applies to you) Alternator rewire - click me There is now a plug for the Light/Sensing wire. Below is the diagram of the pins for that plug. You can either buy this connector/plug online for a few bucks or use spade connectors. I had bought the plug, and misplaced it, so I used blue female spade connectors. The adjustment bracket: I had already bought one of these adjustable guys yearrsss ago, so it worked well with this. You may be able to use the stock one with slight bending or buy/make one of these adjustable guys. I believe the guys over on Ratsun have a how-to on how to make these, or I could just be mixing that up with another site. Otherwise, just buy one them... As always with electrical work, ensure you unplug your battery, etc. I take no liability for you setting everything around you on fire, etc. When upgrading anything electrical, be sure all wire upstream are in good shape. I cannot stress this enough; higher amps is not going to fix an electrical system with hacked up wiring, bad grounds, etc. Be sure everything electrical is in good shape before doing this!
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i am swapping a vg into a 1991 nissan stanza, the harness im using is from a 1994 maxima, this image is from the 94 maxima FSM i need to know what these two plugs actually do and where the wires in them go. the plugs between the stanza body harness and the maxima engine harness are different (stanza body harness is a 4 pin, maxima engine harness is a 6 with 2 pins jumped for some reason) i have the stanza engine harness which i plan to steal the 4 pin plug from and mate that to the maxima engine harness to connect the two together. i have managed to find some wiring diagrams (both appear to be engine harness/ECU pinout diagrams) that may or may not be of any use from the google machine. i am not sure what the plug might be labeled in them and i dont know if the plug has a traditional name that im missing, while im pretty familiar with wiring diagrams im having trouble finding the plug here (if its even accounted for) i know the plugs contain a power connection that i definitely need to complete in order for the ECU and the distributor, tps, etc. to get power. if i cant get any information while i wait ill probably just complete the power connection and see what else isnt working while i go through the car. of course my multimeter has to crap out on me a week before i get into this harness work so ill be buying a new one of those but in the mean time i thought i would seek out the help of some experts. here is a link to my build thread to maybe lend some insight into what im trying to accomplish: https://maxima.org/forums/3rd-generation-maxima-1989-1994/695655-turbo-vg-swapped-stanza.html
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Wanted 81-84 Maxima R180 Differential w/ or w/ out CV axles from an automatic (3.70 ratio). If you know or have a lead on one please let me know. Needed for the 810 project. Thanks,
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Hi guys I am looking for a LD28 Crank from a nissan maxima.
