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Showing results for tags 'power steering'.
Found 9 results
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If you're handy enough to install the $1500 Z power steering kit, you're probably handy enough to save $1400 and make your own. You need an Electric Power Steering Column from following vehicles which are manufactured by Koyo: Saturn Vue - from 2002 to 2007 Chevrolet Equinox - from 2005 to 2007 Saturn Ion - from 2003 to 2006 - only in steering column with metal ECU case. And this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Saturn-Vue-Ion-Chevrolet-Equinox-Electric-power-steering-controller-box-EPAS-/182008071875?vxp=mtr (ebay seller: brunolopesantunes in case link goes dead) If you have an aftermarket ecm, megasquirt, etc with a vehicle speed sensor, you can even wire it in to adjust automatically to your settings at speed, if it will output variable resistance. Sorry, no pics. I have a million things to do to my Z before I worry about electric power steering. But there are plenty of other forums with write ups, and youtube videos demonstrating the concept. (disclosure: portions of text copied from http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/)
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http://www.ezpowersteering.nl/ The electric power steering from this company works great in a 1976 280Z. Direct swap with zero modifications required. Highly recommended. D374F924-A3A4-481A-B580-46EF26E66686.MOV
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Since my vacuum booster has a bad end seal, instead of replacing it with another vacuum booster, I was thinking of running the hydraulic (or 'hydrobooster') that came on the v8 SN95 Mustangs. I have all of the components, however ran into a minor bump in the road, and was wondering if you guys had any ideas. There's three lines going into the booster assembly. 1. High pressure line from the pump. 2. Low pressure return to the reservoir. 3. High pressure to the steering rack. Since I do NOT have power steering, what should I do with line #3?? I don't think I can block it off, as it would put a ton of strain on the pump (like when you go full lock on a p/s car, it makes the pump whine). But on the other hand, I'm not sure if I can just tee it to the return line and have it go right back into the tank. I want to get going on this install ASAP, as I start working again next week, so any help / ideas would be greatly appreciated!
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- hydraulic booster
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This is not a how to,It is what I have done. Mesuring the 240 rack I came up with 24.230" from center to center of ball scokets (iner tie rod pivot point) and a travel of 5.125". The pinion is 7.5" from the center of the housing. The Miata rack's I reviewed are from a 92 and 97. The 92 has a vavle body cast with the gear case and is held togeather with C-clips. This makes it harder to modify. The 97 has a vavle housing bolted to the gear case and the end cap screws into the housing. This is what I will cover here. The Miata rack is 26.040"center to center of ball scokets with a travel of 4.704". The pinion is 8.75" from the center of the housing. Ball scoket threads are 17x1.0MM RH. Center of ball scoket to mating face of rack is (including lockwasher) .740".The travel is limited by ball scokets contact with the housing. Removing the ball scokets allows more travel that is now limited by the distance between the fluid lines less the with of the piston inside 5.354"-.287"=5.067" max travel for this rack. Not as much as the 240's 5.125",But with power steering I will go with shorter steering arms to make up for it. To get Center to center of 24.230" I removed 1.812" off the right end of the rack remachined the end with the exception of the lenght of the small OD witch was shortened to .25". This aera and the vent hole must be polished to prevent seal damage. The housing was cut down 1.582" on the right side and remachined. The thread is 40x1.0MM RH, I used 1.575"x24TPI RH (My lathe is english) A new shorter end cap was made alowing an extra .385" travel. It stops the piston befor it blocks the fluid port on the left. Using a face pin spaner insted of a hex alowes more of the housing to be left in place for the rubber mount. This made up for cutting less off the housing than the rack. On the left end of the housing a counter bore 1.5" DIA x.150"deep alowing the ball scoket to travel inside the housing,and the piston to travel to the edge of the right fluid port. The tie rod's were cut down 2.25" and threaded 12x1.25MM RH. Miata outer tie rod's will be used. I now have a rack with the same center to center as the 240z, and a travel of 5.067". Other problems to address will be the pinion is now 6.562" from the center of the housing (15/16" closer to the motor), steering shaft and mounting made. -
Hey guys, did a lot of searching and reading before posting but found mostly questions being answered by opinions so was wondering what you guys are running up front as far as tire width and sizes go and how you find the steering. I am in between keeping the stock rack and pinion out of the Z versus WRX power steering but I will be running a 235/17 tyre up front with the rb26 on my 280 and was wondering what I should expect as far as effort goes. I will be designing it as a dd but don't really expect to drive it more than a few times a week. I'm leaning towards the stock rack simply because I want to keep the feel genuine and not to mention it will just be easier in the first place.
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From the album: Subaru Rack For Sale
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From the album: Subaru Rack For Sale
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From the album: Subaru Rack For Sale
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From the album: Subaru Rack For Sale
