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Showing results for tags 'urethane'.
Found 5 results
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*admins, please put this where you think it goes. this was the best section I found for it.... Hi guys. So. last year, I changed my front suspension. and as I foolishly turned the wheel hub by hand (with a lot of strenght to overcome resistance), making the rack and pinion move as I did that and and one of the rack and pinion seals blew. Fast forward to this year (cause I'm lazy and didn't do it during the winter), I took the rack out and am rebuilding it. As I did that, I realized my passenger side rack bushing, which has been copiously bathed in engine oil for years, was shot. All mushy and broken. And just my luck, they don't really sell them anywhere, or if they do they charge an arm and a leg for it. or it's just the driver side. or... whatever. So I made one! Here is the crummy one next to the brand new one. I used the measurements from the rack, the old bushing and the bracket that holds the rack in place to 3d design mold, 3d printed it, greased it up with petroleum jelly, and some (not all tha tmuch, actually) 3M windshield urethane (high viscosity, which cures a little harder)... Here are some more shots of it, including fitted on the rack, and with the bracket that holds the rack on.. I'd say the hardness is right on par with the other side's bushing which is old but still looks healthy. Yes the surface finish is a little rough, but it's sound.. I'm happy with it. I'll be putting it back on the car as soon as I motivate my sorry ass to put the rack and pinion back together (btw, used a 55 CAD$ kit, that came with almost all the seals (all the important ones, really), and that worked really well. it's not hard at all following the FSM manual). I'll make certain to wrap it really well in some plastic or another to try to keep the oil off of it (yeah I know I should fix the leak). If I'd have to do it again, I'd try the lower viscosity urethane as this one was a b*tch to get out the tube... if I'd live in the states, I'd buy some pourable 2-part urethane and simply pour it in, but there is none around me, at least not in reasonable quantities at a reasonable price. THAT would be a dream to use... This technique can be done for the other side as well, or any other similar bushing. if anyone is interested I can post pictures of my mold (4 parts), and even share the 3d files. Keep in mind that this bushing is bigger than the driver side (I have the files for 3d printing the other one too) and won't fit older models. Making a new model for a mold for any sort of similar part is a pretty quick affair and printing one in this size was about 6$s worth of plastic. I can also make and sell some, if anyone is in need of one. Questions welcomed. have a good night! s.
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Do you guys know what type of original factory paint (primer and topcoat) went on the 240z? Was it a hardened acrylic enamel or lacquer? I'm going to shoot a 2-part epoxy first and then bc/cc paint. I'm debating on whether or not I should take the car all the way down to metal or paint over some of the OEM primer and want to ensure paint compatibility.
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hey guys, I am in the process of pulling apart all my lower control arms, steering linkage, rear diff and moustache bar.. I am running a 1JZ with 340whp, an eibach upgrade springs with kyb shocks, I need to replace all my bushings but am kind of stuck as to which way to go.... Please bear in mind I want this as a daily driver with some track days. I don't want my car to rattle, sqeak and feel its vibrating all the time yet I don't want it to be super sloppy. Has anyone done a hybrid bushing replacement? Like some rubber and some poly? I would really appreciate some feedback. -
Hello! I'm new to the "Z-Community" but what I can say so far is that it's GREAT! The enthusiasm and support so far has been fantastic. I recently purchased 1974 260Z with 56,000 miles on it. The car sat, covered on a car-port for nearly 30 years. I have a four phase plan for the car. Phase 1: brakes and Suspension Phase 2: drive train Phase 3: Engine upgrade phase 4: Body and Paint. I look forward to sharing the build with the community and drawing on the experience that is available. I hope that as my project progresses I can "pay it forward" to those that follow. Bob_260
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So I have a really loud and awful sounding squeaking noise coming from my rear suspension. it is happening only when I either go over a large bump, or I accelerate. It is BY FAR worse when accelerating, its almost constant squeaking/metal on metal? screeching sound. I'm having a lot of trouble trying to narrow down what could be causing it because I recently replaced all my bushings with urethane bushings, and replaced the struts. I have tried spraying my bushings with silicone spray, but that doesn't really help. I have tried having a passenger crawl back there and see if they can narrow down the problem area while I was driving but met with no success that way. I've tried taking out all the rear interior and driving with the hatch open but that did nothing. I've tried pulling the driver's side LCA (I'm convinced its on the driver's side... at least mostly) and re-greasing and sanding down the bushings to make them fit better, but that did nothing either. What could be causing a squeak under acceleration? Which bushings should I look at? Is it possible its the springs scraping the spring perch? Is there supposed to be some kind of pad between the two? Its SO BAD when accelerating, even like 1/8th gas it will do it. But cruising and braking it is silent. Any insight would be much appreciated. I apologize if this is in the wrong section, but I figure that since I have a 280z, this issue would be specific to that car, Mods please move if this is in the wrong section.
