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jkelly last won the day on March 5

jkelly had the most liked content!

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About jkelly

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  • Location
    Tehachapi CA
  • Interests
    Composite fabrication, metal fabrication, electrical systems, engine building, dirt bikes

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  1. I added fresh Redline MT90 and diff oil to the transmission and diff, but the ujoints oddly do not have a place to add grease or take out a plug. The part number on them is Koyo KC1819D. Is that the stock part? Here is a video of one of them: 20200708_173153.mp4
  2. I took a look and didn't see the plugs in the current u-joints. Not sure if they had different ones that did have the plug. These are labeled Koyo.
  3. That all makes sense to me. It's primarily a street car and weekend cruiser, so I don't plan to make huge HP and torque. The tires are close to stock as well. Thanks! Maybe I'll report back with some dyno numbers in a week or two.
  4. Great. Thanks for the feedback -- I appreciate it. Do you have any data points on at what torque the outer stub axles and/or diff carrier gears start to fail? There are of course a lot of other variables like the condition of the splines and gears, but I'm just curious so I can have a "do not exceed" number for the dyno tuner.
  5. Hey guys, So I'm getting ready for a trip to the dyno after my fresh rebuild and Megasquirt MS3X install. The engine is all fresh and I've barely driven it. One thing I didn't do is replace the original halfshaft and driveshaft u-joints. I have some new NAPA UJ393s for the halfshafts and NAPA P391s for the driveshaft that I plan to put in before the dyno run. My question is, would it be better to order the heavy duty u-joints from MSA or will the NAPA u-joints be fine? Differential is the original R180. Planning to make around 300HP this first round. Link to heavy duty joints. It looks like they have more meet around the trunion compared to the NAPA ones. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/22-3004 Heavy duty: NAPA:
  6. Installed the steering column and steering coupler. The steering coupler shaft interferes with my turbo oil drain, so I ordered 90" 3/4" barb for the drain that should solve the problem. Hoping for a maiden voyage this weekend!
  7. Digging the village ski hill! Nice composite work, too. What are you repairing on the bottom of those three scoops? Looks like some Everglass in there. It kind of looks like the composite cracked off further in and that's what you're replacing?
  8. Very cool. I'll check that out. I finally assembled the steering column. I had to machine a new end bearing sleeve for the needle bearing in the end of the steering column. Everything went back together great and the column feels sweet. No freeplay or binding. Shooting for a maiden voyage of the car this weekend. 4+ years coming! The old broken sleeve and needle bearing. The sleeve I machined, the rubber isolator, and the needle bearing. Bonus doggo.
  9. Excellent. Glad you got the bearing out without damage. If you want some new 1/8" balls shoot me a PM and I'll send them your way free of charge. I bought 100 of them after all. What body kit is that? It looks far out. Gotta make room for those wheels. I'm on Konig Rewind 15"x 7s. What's your tire size?
  10. There's this forum post that kind of describes the process: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-280zxt-s30-s130-tech-tips-275/steering-column-fix-15966/ Also this manual that has some decent diagrams that might help: http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/AUTOMOBILE/NISSAN/240z/1973/ST Steering.pdf This post talks about the process in good detail, too. Try searching for "bearing" in this post: http://japanesenostalgiccar.com/forum/forum/garages/datsun-nissan-garage/4020-project-s30z-my-swiss-datsun-240z-1972/page40 Good luck!
  11. Hey, thanks! I know how the delays go. I'm 4+ years in now, but almost there. That last 10% takes twice as long as the rest. I can't recall how I got the bearings out, but I imagine I used a pipe of some sort to hammer them out. Maybe even a PVC pipe. I will go back through my pictures and see if I have some that show that. Also, I would not recommend removing the needle bearing in the end of the steering column. It's not meant to be removed and I did destroy part of it. It's a needle bearing surrounded by a rubber bushing and encased in a metal sleeve. I damaged the sleeve and need to machine a new one. I was able to find a replacement bearing, but not replacement rubber isolator and metal casing. The other bearings, though, are 1/8". https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006PQLP9S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  12. Recently I put in a new headliner. This wasn't as difficult as it seemed at first, but it certainly helps having two people there. I also started putting in new window header vinyl. This took a few tries to get it smooth. I'll upload final pics of this tonight or tomorrow. I also rebuilt the quarter windows with new inner and outer weatherstripping. These were pretty hard to get back into the car because the weatherstripping doesn't like to compress. I found using longer M4 screws helps to grab the screw hole threads and pull it in. This would have been easier with two people -- one person pushing on the window while another threads in the four screws. I also started laying down the interior vinyl (transmission tunnel, strut towers, inner-rockers, wheel-wells, etc. I went with 15" graphite Konig Rewinds for wheels. I put these on and over the the course of just 48 hours the car settled and the tire/fender gap looks great now!
  13. I'll follow up on this for archive/search purposes since it's been resolved. I did get the car to finally start using the following settings and in full sequential and COP mode with no CAM Fault and full sync. I'm not sure why it didn't start the first time I had this settings burned on the MS3. I did find my timing was off by 10º BTDC and it's possible the required fuel and VE table may have not been dialed in well enough. Thanks to Matt at DIYAutoTune for helping out.
  14. Wow it's been a long time since I've posted. I've been working hard on the Megasquirt 3 with COP and full sequential. I've also been working on the interior, dash, etc. Here's a quick break down of what I've done since the last update: New VintageDash Dash is assembled with SpeedHut gauges Bored the engine to 87mm Moly coated JE Forged pistons with contact reduction and accumulator grooves ARP rod, main, and head bolts/studs installed New timing components installed Turbo oil pump installed T3/T04E Garret Turbo 50Trim 0.63A/R. Ceramic coated. Ceramic coated exhaust header with external wastegate piping TiAL BOV and Wastegate install Treadstone Intercooler install Champion 4-row radiator installed Twin 12" electric fan install 3" stainless steel exhaust from turbo back. Custom welded. Wideband O2 installed in exhaust DG508 coils installed Palnet fuel rail installed RRFPR installed Gas tank installed Fuel surge tank installed Carter P4070 lift pump and Walbro GSL39 primary fuel pump installed Classic Tube stainless steel fuel hardlines installed from Classic Tube stainless steel brake lines installed Custom fabricated braided SS brake lines Installed brake booster Installed brake master cylinder Installed clutch master cylinder Installed E-brake cable Engine run at idle on full sequential and COP Reflectix heat shield installed on interior Leather diamond stiched vinyl installed 20190909_200433_1.mp4 20190703_194045.mp4
  15. I tried adding 360 degrees to the tooth 1 angle to put the cam in the other phase per Matt Cramer's suggestion. This seemed to get rid of the cam fault during cranking, but now the engine will not start. The engine only starts with Second Trigger set to Poll Level in Full Sequential/COP but always has the cam fault. I've tried the other 4 combinations of Ignition Input Capture and Second Trigger Active On and the engine will not start. It fires a few times but then dies. I've tried adjusting the required fuel up and down as well as the VE table and I still can't get it to start.
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