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About jkelly

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  • Location
    Tehachapi CA
  • Interests
    Composite fabrication, metal fabrication, electrical systems, engine building, dirt bikes

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  1. Larry, I'll get my old tach down tonight and take a look at it and get back to you. James
  2. Yeah that makes sense. Not everyone has access to a TIG welder or wants to bother with fabricating their own. A complete product would sell better, you're right. Sounds good. I'll keep you in mind when I'm going forward with my manifold.
  3. @Gollum Any idea what the demand for these is? I was trained on our CNC machine at work the other day and I'm really wanting to machine one for myself and weld my own manifold. I would consider cutting a few of these if people are interested.
  4. Yeah, the first person snagged it. Sorry. I've seen some on eBay for a similar price.
  5. PM sent. Let me know because I'm making a run to USPS, UPS, and FedEx tomorrow. A sale is pending, but here are some pics. The plastic studs on the back that fasten it to the tailight are broken off.
  6. I'm nearing the end of my build and have several parts I don't need. Prices include shipping unless otherwise noted. I'm located in Tehachapi CA. Local pick up is fine, too. N47 intake manifold with EGR block off plates (from a '78 280z) - $100 + shipping Urethane Spindle Pin Bushing Kit (rear LCA outer bushings only) -- $20 Energy Suspension polyurethane compression rod bushings -- $15 Red Interior Plastic Rivets, 70 - 73 240z - $5 per pack of 10 (4 packs available) '76 - '78 280z ECU Kick Panel Cover - $30 '78 280z Restored License Plate Light - $50 '78 280z Relay Bracket $25 280z Horn Relay (tested) - $25 280z Fuel Pump Relay 25230-H7200 (tested) - $25 280z A/C Relay 25230-H7200 (tested) - $25 280z Inhibitor Relay 25230-H7200 (tested) - $25 280z EFI Main Relay 25230-89970 (tested) $15 280z Fuel Pump Control Relay 25230-89966 $15 280z OEM Right Side Pillar Badge (New) - $40 240z Tailight Chrome Trim - $20 Side Marker Lenses - $5 each + shipping Rear Side Marker Light Housings - $5 each + shipping (inside has been painted white) Front Side Marker Light Housing - $5 + shipping (inside has been painted white) New Side Marker Rubber Seals - $20 for all Side Marker Chrome Trim Pieces - $5 each + shipping Front Park/Turn Signal Rubber Seals - $15 240z Painted Front Sway Bar - $20 + shipping 3D Printed Flexible Inner Mud Flaps - $7.50 each 3D Printed Flexible 240z Steering Column Firewall Gasket - $10 each 3D Printed Firewall Wiper Grommet - $5.00 each Custom 3D printed grommets, seals, gaskets, inspection light lenses, chair slider knobs, seat mechanism covers, etc. Contact me. 280z 2+2 NEW sewn-molded, black, cut-pile 5-piece carpet kit - $100 + shipping (like this http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08g06b/40-2564 ) 20190326_151124.mp4
  7. Bump. Reduced the price on the head again. Make me an offer on the head. It's freshly rebuilt and ready to run. You couldn't build one for the price I have it listed!
  8. I'm looking for a custom intake manifold for my L28ET. I contacted Lonewolf Performance and he said they no longer make the custom intakes Thanks
  9. Is this the cooling mod you're talking about? Looks like he does all six chambers, though.
  10. True! I'm starting to think 200hp would be plenty fun, for me. But I also think of how after riding a sport bike or fast car/truck for a while I always want more. So there's that. I also have a freshly rebuilt N47 head with a Stage 1 Schneider cam and fresh springs. I could continue to go the NA route for even cheaper than going turbo if all I'm shooting for is 200hp. It sounds like the safe rev range for stock internals is around 6000 - 6500rpm.
  11. Interesting post! That was a good read. I will probably stay with cast pistons, especially after doing some power to weight calculations -- that really put it into perspective. Using my 345hp vehicle (5120lb curb weight) as a power-to-weight reference the equivalent 240z power would be only 155hp.
  12. I see. I've considered building a throwaway like you mentioned, learning to tune on it, and if I destroy it I'm not out too much. The 300 number was picked from owning 350hp vehicle, albeit heavier, and thinking it would be a reasonable number for this project. I haven't driven a zcar with that much power, so you may be right and 250hp may be fun enough.
  13. I'm leaning that way for the same reason and because the paint shop 'broke the bank' and I know the engine will end up costing more than I estimated above when it's all said and done. I would probably not want to take the engine out of the car again since it would involve removing the hood and probably the fenders in order to minimizing scratching them. I would just live with whatever power it ends up making, most likely. I've read through that a few times before. It is a lot of great information, but still not really a definitive answer. From what I gather it says going with my Option 1 I should be able to get 350whp. There seems to be several ways to get to 350whp(ish). Like ZHoob2004 mentioned a lot of people say you need to go with forged pistons with anything above 300hp, but is that considering that you have a MSIII tunable management computer to control detonation? Forged does buy you extra safety margin against detonation, but detonation can destroy a forged piston/ring, too, so is it really worth an extra $1200 for this kind of build? Could I create the same peace of mind and reliability with cast pistons by ensuring I tune properly? EDIT: a word
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