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jkelly last won the day on March 5 2020

jkelly had the most liked content!

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About jkelly

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  • Location
    Tehachapi CA
  • Interests
    Composite fabrication, metal fabrication, electrical systems, engine building, dirt bikes

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  1. I did! It was just a matter of getting the correct settings. It was tricky because even with the correct settings it idled poorly due to other tuning issues which made me think it was wrong. Ill post my settings tomorrow for posterity.
  2. I unbolted each caliper and bleed them with the bleeder facing up at the highest point. Some air came out and the brakes are a lot better now and the car can actually stop. They're still quite squishy so I'm missing something.
  3. I was actually referring to a cylindrical spacer I made to lengthen the push rod. I removed that and didn't put it back. Your advice reminds me, though, that I didn't take my measurements with the flange/spacer installed between the booster and the MC, so everything is off by about 0.5" (thickness of the flange). Here are the measurements and adjustment I made to the push-rod last night., but again I forgot to take into account the aluminum 4-hole flange/spacer between the booster and MC. This would add approximately +0.5" to the push-rod adjustment.
  4. This may end up being a long post because I want to highlight all of the things I've tried to get the brake pedal to not depress all the way to the floor. 1. I believe the brake booster is a 280zx booster. I had to widen the holes in the fire wall to get it to fit. I purchased the booster from O'Reilys. 2. I did the maxima caliper swap on the rear. 3. All brake lines to calipers are steel braided. 4. I removed the stock proportioning valve insides and converted it to a pass through splitter. 5. I first tried a 7/8" master cylinder and bleed the brake using sever
  5. Great. I didn't know that. I had heard that the 71C is a little stronger than the T5 BW so I've been looking for the 71C. Do you know if the SR20 5 speed has the same gear box as the KA24 5 speed?
  6. Looking for an '89 - 98' 240sx KA24DE (FS5W71C) 5 speed transmission.
  7. I added fresh Redline MT90 and diff oil to the transmission and diff, but the ujoints oddly do not have a place to add grease or take out a plug. The part number on them is Koyo KC1819D. Is that the stock part? Here is a video of one of them: 20200708_173153.mp4
  8. I took a look and didn't see the plugs in the current u-joints. Not sure if they had different ones that did have the plug. These are labeled Koyo.
  9. That all makes sense to me. It's primarily a street car and weekend cruiser, so I don't plan to make huge HP and torque. The tires are close to stock as well. Thanks! Maybe I'll report back with some dyno numbers in a week or two.
  10. Great. Thanks for the feedback -- I appreciate it. Do you have any data points on at what torque the outer stub axles and/or diff carrier gears start to fail? There are of course a lot of other variables like the condition of the splines and gears, but I'm just curious so I can have a "do not exceed" number for the dyno tuner.
  11. Hey guys, So I'm getting ready for a trip to the dyno after my fresh rebuild and Megasquirt MS3X install. The engine is all fresh and I've barely driven it. One thing I didn't do is replace the original halfshaft and driveshaft u-joints. I have some new NAPA UJ393s for the halfshafts and NAPA P391s for the driveshaft that I plan to put in before the dyno run. My question is, would it be better to order the heavy duty u-joints from MSA or will the NAPA u-joints be fine? Differential is the original R180. Planning to make around 300HP this first round. Link t
  12. Installed the steering column and steering coupler. The steering coupler shaft interferes with my turbo oil drain, so I ordered 90" 3/4" barb for the drain that should solve the problem. Hoping for a maiden voyage this weekend!
  13. Digging the village ski hill! Nice composite work, too. What are you repairing on the bottom of those three scoops? Looks like some Everglass in there. It kind of looks like the composite cracked off further in and that's what you're replacing?
  14. Very cool. I'll check that out. I finally assembled the steering column. I had to machine a new end bearing sleeve for the needle bearing in the end of the steering column. Everything went back together great and the column feels sweet. No freeplay or binding. Shooting for a maiden voyage of the car this weekend. 4+ years coming! The old broken sleeve and needle bearing. The sleeve I machined, the rubber isolator, and the needle bearing.
  15. Excellent. Glad you got the bearing out without damage. If you want some new 1/8" balls shoot me a PM and I'll send them your way free of charge. I bought 100 of them after all. What body kit is that? It looks far out. Gotta make room for those wheels. I'm on Konig Rewind 15"x 7s. What's your tire size?
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