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Showing results for tags 'valve'.
Found 6 results
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I finally got the chance to take off the valve cover and check the valve lash clearances and I noticed a strange consistency with my measurements. I have measured every exhaust valve clearance to be exactly .009mm and every intake valve clearance was between .004-.006mm except for one. The one valve was too tight for the smallest feeler gauge which was .004. To measure, I used a feeler gauge to feel for the highest gauge where it could slide between the cam and the lash pad while the lobes were facing straight up. This was also done with a cold engine. Now, I know the stock clearances are .008mm and .010mm when cold, but my engine has been modified. I am unaware of the exact specs, but my camshaft (E30 Japan) says "Americam 060 1" on the end of it and the PO stated it had been bored/ported at some point. Regardless of the modifications, the clearances should be much higher than .004mm-.006mm on the intake valves, correct? The only reason my awareness has been raised is the consistency of my measurements. Could there be a reason the PO or a previous tuner to have set the intake clearances that low? Or were they likely properly set at one point, but over time have all evenly deteriorated to their current state? Edit: Car is a 1973 240z with an L24 and E88 head
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Hey guys, I'm in the process of putting my head back together and it seems along the way I lost a washer. It's the inner valve seat washer that sits on the lip below the valve stem seal. There's a larger washer that sits down underneath it. I haven't been able to find them online anywhere so I'm trying here. Hopefully someone has one. - Brandon
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I have a P90a (Non Hydr) that i'm planning on oppgrade with new larger stainless steel valves and I wonder how large valves can I use before the valve seats needs to be replaced ? And is it necesarry to do anyting with the valve guides to use stainless steel valves ? Thanks.
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Doing a slow restore on a 72 240 i picked up. Weber 45s were having some trouble sneezing and leaking so took them off to clean em up and replace gaskets, set floats etc. Noticed these adjustment screws which i find no mention of in Haynes manual, or any online reference ive found. These are the later 152s with nitrophyl/spansil floats so im thinking it was a modification on later models? has a white plastic hat/cover. one on each throat. with plastic cover removed needle screw with fastener nut needle pokes through main venturu/choke into carb throat (upper right)
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Hi everyone, I'm changing out the heater control valve in my car and possibly the heater core while I'm at it. I want to replace the hoses since there's a good chance that the current ones will crack or break when I remove them. I've been trying to source new ones and I can't seem to find the whole set anywhere. I was going to buy 2 of the 3 at Black Dragon but after checking their diagram and my car's setup, they seem to be different so I'm hesitant on buying from them. Not to mention a lot of them are fairly pricy... I'm not really looking to pay $70 for a few little hoses. Do I need the shaped hose? Or could I use some unshaped hose instead? And if I need the shaped hose, can someone point me to a place that sells them for a reasonable price? EDIT: For clarification, the hoses pictured here are the 3 I'm looking for: Thanks. - Brandon
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Apparently my engine has a bit hotter of a cam, and there's a little bit of valve ticking, but I just adjusted the valves and the sound prevails even when at factory recommendation. Would a hotter cam alter the required amount of valve clearance? If so, is there a trial and error method of adjusting the valves until the ticking is gone, and therefore a proper seat is found? Or am I just doing the adjustment wrong?
