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Showing results for tags 'weld'.
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I'm going to get rid of the sunroof in my project car. I have a roof I bought on eBay a while back, and I have a spare that I got with a parts car that I just bought. I am planning on going the route of using a spotweld cutter to remove the spotwelds on the roof and replacing the whole skin. Through doing some reading, I have seen a few approaches to this, and wanted to run it by everyone to see if this is the best way. I haven't started yet, so let me know if any of this is un-doable, or going to be unnecessarily difficult. Donor roof: Make pilot holes through the spotwelds from the top; cut the spotwelds off from the underside. This results in a smaller hole in the donor roof and less filling. Removing roof on project car: Use grinder to carefully cut away spotwelds to minimize chance of going too deep with the spotweld cutter. I am assuming that there are spotwelds across the front and back of the roof (windshield/hatch) as well, and it's not leaded in there? If so, then I just need to remove all the spotwelds around the roof, heat up the seams on the A and B pillars to melt the lead and it will come off? How is the roof molded into the drip rails? Is there anything special I'll need to do there, after getting the spotwelds removed, to remove the skin? Thanks for any help, I just want to make sure I have a clear understanding of what I need to do before I start digging in.
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So my floor pans fromhttp://www.thezstore.com/pathing/PROD/30-7317 Arrived and we started attempting to install them. Well everything is going well thank you for asking. Except We've met a small snag. Right below the little recessed cup thing where the seat belt retractor sits was a little rusted out and it's at a weird angle to where we don't think we can just weld some sheet metal in there. I don't have a good picture but will get one shortly today. If you guys have ever ran into this problem let me know how you surpassed it. It's the place where the driver floor pan stops and the slanted piece starts up. Only pictures I got.
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I know there's lots of info out on the net about making your own driveshaft so I thought I'd organize my go to links here. Depending on what you've got for parts and what tools you've got available a DIY driveshaft might be a good option. This should be your freakin' BIBLE when doing any driveline work: Dana Spicer Installation Manual Here's some links below that give some torque ratings and dimensions of different joints and just interesting reading: http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/1006or-universal-joint-cv-joint-transferring-torgue/ http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/HTML%20measure/UJ%20ID%20Guide.html http://mad4wd.com/blog/?p=18 http://www.wallaceracing.com/driveshaftspeed.htm http://www.rockcharger.com/tech/partnumbers.html http://www.pssupply.com/ratingsp.html http://www.drive-lines.com/dana/tranny_applications.php?model=Ford http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/summer2008/ujoints.htm And one of the most concise DIY builds: http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/transmission-articles/493751-how-shorten-your-driveshaft.html#post1556196 Everybody seems to do steel, but if you have a tig welder, well, why not do an aluminum one? They're on Trucks, Explorers, Aerostars etc. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/4361425-post57.html And, if you have yoke problems, remember you can always take material off, but it's a bi*ch to put back on!
