luseboy Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Jeez I thought I was young to be restoring a Z at 18. Glad to see another young gun working on one of these things. I know your pain on the limited budget but just keep at it, you'll appreciate it a lot more when your done. I say keep that motor... for now at least. Maybe do a triple carb conversion, but there's nothing wrong with an L28. Doing an engine swap is just gonna tie up a whole lot more money and time... and is only gonna give you a bigger headache. L series engines are nice man! Definitely my favorite engine... As far as that front swaybar issue goes, it looks to me ( I could be wrong... I hope so anyways) like you've got something else going on there too. It could just be the angle of the photo but it looks like that wheel has positive camber which is not so good for performance haha. Lowering and camber plates will help that I'm sure. Make sure you get an alignment afterwards. You might be able to shim the sway bar mount downwards to get it away from the inner fender. I'd think a couple washers under each mount bolt would do the trick. Also if you're doing all this, I'd recommend to replace all (or most) of your bushings. That will make a huge difference. The energy suspension stuff is really nice and really cheap compared to stuff for newer cars. Anyways just keep moving forward, you won't regret it. Haha you've got a leg ahead of me... I'm spray painting my whole car but I'm also dumping all my money into suspension... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devil_S30 Posted March 14, 2012 Author Share Posted March 14, 2012 Thanks! For now I will probably change out my head because I have a n42/p79 combo. I'm still waiting for my coils to come in, I hate fedex they keep coming to deliver when no one is around so now they shipped it back to Apexi. so now I have to play the waiting game. I already have my Zccjdm camber plates in, I think I will do a custom strut bar like the ones on the new 370z's still not sure yet though. I am only paying (well borrowed) $2800 for all this to get done with paint taking up $2k of that cost haha. The rest is for the supplies for the wiring and bodywork. Link to the energy suspension pieces? I think I have a link somewhere showing you how to paint your car for around $500. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 (edited) Now for the other projects at the shop 65 Mustang that came in for blasting That's a '67 Mustang. One easy way to tell, is that the '64.5 to '66 did not have those body coloured insets in the body scoop area in front of the rear wheel well. There could have been chrome trim in that area, but was not set into the body of the '65 and '66, but mounted onto the body, through holes punched or drilled in the sheet metal. The '68 is very similar to the '67, but does not have those same insets. The first 4 and a half years (including the '64.5) all look very similar, but when set side by side the '64.5 to '66 looks quite different than the '67/'68 model years. The latter got larger, with more angles added. Edited March 14, 2012 by Six_Shooter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devil_S30 Posted March 14, 2012 Author Share Posted March 14, 2012 Ahh thank you for the correction, I will edit the original post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luseboy Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Thanks! For now I will probably change out my head because I have a n42/p79 combo. I'm still waiting for my coils to come in, I hate fedex they keep coming to deliver when no one is around so now they shipped it back to Apexi. so now I have to play the waiting game. I already have my Zccjdm camber plates in, I think I will do a custom strut bar like the ones on the new 370z's still not sure yet though. I am only paying (well borrowed) $2800 for all this to get done with paint taking up $2k of that cost haha. The rest is for the supplies for the wiring and bodywork. Link to the energy suspension pieces? I think I have a link somewhere showing you how to paint your car for around $500. Do you have flat top or dished pistons? The P79 is acctually one of the best N/A heads. It has larger valves, a smaller combustion chamber, and I believe larger ports than the early heads. The only head that's 'better' is the P90. I've heard people say that the N42 is the best... but I disagree, I think the P90 is the best and the P79 is the same thing except with exhaust runners. You may want to use an early or aftermarket cam though. The P79 is only bad for turbo motors, and some even claim that it's good for turbo motors. I hate packages that have to be signed for! Are you using out of the box springs with those coilovers? If so they will most likely be way too stiff for the Z chassis, but I believe you can just get some normal 2.5" springs from summit or whatever in a softer rate and put them on there. I really like these strut bars: http://www.racetep.com/zfront.html I plan to get them for my project. What are you doing about wiring? I'm ripping all my 40 year old crap out and putting in a universal harness and fuse block from ez-wiring. Here's the link: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-718101G . It's a lot of work to put them all in, but you might as well just buy it and then use them as you need them. Or just take everything apart now. Also when you go to install your s13 coils, don't mess with the gland nuts at the top of the struts, just cut through the whole thing, insert included. It took me a week to get each one off (a few hours a day with heat, oil, hammer/pipe wrench). You don't need to do that so just cut haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 (edited) Had same problem with swaybar. Here begins the "domino effect." I don't know where I got them 15 years ago, but there are some poly bushings out there that move the swaybar away from the frame rail about an inch and that solves the problem. Until I got these, I just put a piece of wood between the stock bushing and the frame rail, using the wood as a spacer and used longer bolts. Be sure to chase the threads in the frame rail and antisieze the new bolts, this is a favorite place for a bolt to snap off and waste a day. Consider fiberglass fenders-it is a z-car, you will have rust again in 10 years, no matter how good the replacement metal fender is. The day will come when you want to add caster to your car's front end. Before you paint your car or mount ZG flares, cut about an inch out of the front of the fender arch and airdam and relocate your side marker light up and forward accordingly. You will thank yourself someday for that foresight. My next fenders will be glass and I will modify them to look like "BIG SAM." Tell me more about your wheels-size and offset or backspacing. I MIGHT be interested in buying them or trading for them. I have a set of Halbrand dummy knock-offs that would look awesome with them with a "big and little" tire combination. I'm not in any hurry, just something to give you an option. I have more z-car wheels than Emelda Marcos has shoes! Edited March 14, 2012 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 I just went back thru your posts. What a nice chassis-I am very jealous of how pretty your floorpans are. If you have exposed any raw metal prior to priming, beware-primer is not waterproof and you will get surface rust that will have to be sanded off again later. If car is exosed to moisture, repaint with flat black PAINT to avoid rust. It is a shame but these cars just aren't worth that much-go crazy and have as much fun as you want with it, you'll never sell one of these cars for what you have in them. If they were a good "investment" the Nissan sponsored restoration project wouldn't have failed. I just noticed that your front brake backing plate has a little scoop bent into it. I've never seen that before, and my 1972 240z doesn't have the little scoop-very cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devil_S30 Posted March 14, 2012 Author Share Posted March 14, 2012 Do you have flat top or dished pistons? The P79 is acctually one of the best N/A heads. It has larger valves, a smaller combustion chamber, and I believe larger ports than the early heads. The only head that's 'better' is the P90. I've heard people say that the N42 is the best... but I disagree, I think the P90 is the best and the P79 is the same thing except with exhaust runners. You may want to use an early or aftermarket cam though. The P79 is only bad for turbo motors, and some even claim that it's good for turbo motors. I hate packages that have to be signed for! Are you using out of the box springs with those coilovers? If so they will most likely be way too stiff for the Z chassis, but I believe you can just get some normal 2.5" springs from summit or whatever in a softer rate and put them on there. I really like these strut bars: http://www.racetep.com/zfront.html I plan to get them for my project. What are you doing about wiring? I'm ripping all my 40 year old crap out and putting in a universal harness and fuse block from ez-wiring. Here's the link: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-718101G . It's a lot of work to put them all in, but you might as well just buy it and then use them as you need them. Or just take everything apart now. Also when you go to install your s13 coils, don't mess with the gland nuts at the top of the struts, just cut through the whole thing, insert included. It took me a week to get each one off (a few hours a day with heat, oil, hammer/pipe wrench). You don't need to do that so just cut haha. Well I did a compression test yesterday which turned out to be at 125. For the coilovers yes I am using the springs out of the box spring rates are 8/6. That was the style of strut bar I was looking for too. As for the wiring I plan on ripping it all out, replace my dash with my uncracked one and go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devil_S30 Posted March 14, 2012 Author Share Posted March 14, 2012 Had same problem with swaybar. Here begins the "domino effect." I don't know where I got them 15 years ago, but there are some poly bushings out there that move the swaybar away from the frame rail about an inch and that solves the problem. Until I got these, I just put a piece of wood between the stock bushing and the frame rail, using the wood as a spacer and used longer bolts. Be sure to chase the threads in the frame rail and antisieze the new bolts, this is a favorite place for a bolt to snap off and waste a day. Consider fiberglass fenders-it is a z-car, you will have rust again in 10 years, no matter how good the replacement metal fender is. The day will come when you want to add caster to your car's front end. Before you paint your car or mount ZG flares, cut about an inch out of the front of the fender arch and airdam and relocate your side marker light up and forward accordingly. You will thank yourself someday for that foresight. My next fenders will be glass and I will modify them to look like "BIG SAM." Tell me more about your wheels-size and offset or backspacing. I MIGHT be interested in buying them or trading for them. I have a set of Halbrand dummy knock-offs that would look awesome with them with a "big and little" tire combination. I'm not in any hurry, just something to give you an option. I have more z-car wheels than Emelda Marcos has shoes! I know for a fact that my dad wouldn't like me cutting into the car, I wouldn't hear the end of it haha. I will try the spacer for the sway bar. As for the wheels I have no clue what the specs are, I haven't really looked into them yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devil_S30 Posted March 14, 2012 Author Share Posted March 14, 2012 I just went back thru your posts. What a nice chassis-I am very jealous of how pretty your floorpans are. If you have exposed any raw metal prior to priming, beware-primer is not waterproof and you will get surface rust that will have to be sanded off again later. If car is exosed to moisture, repaint with flat black PAINT to avoid rust. It is a shame but these cars just aren't worth that much-go crazy and have as much fun as you want with it, you'll never sell one of these cars for what you have in them. If they were a good "investment" the Nissan sponsored restoration project wouldn't have failed. I just noticed that your front brake backing plate has a little scoop bent into it. I've never seen that before, and my 1972 240z doesn't have the little scoop-very cool. Yes, I was surprised on the little amount of rust the car had, but by the looks of it the car has been wrecked before. I live in Washington so it rains 3/4 of the year, for that 3/4 of the year she'll be parked inside the garage until a nice sunny day. I agree on that, I will never be able to sell mine for the amount of time and money I put into her. Hmmm...I never really noticed that I rarely take off the wheel as I am doing body work first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luseboy Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Well I did a compression test yesterday which turned out to be at 125. For the coilovers yes I am using the springs out of the box spring rates are 8/6. That was the style of strut bar I was looking for too. As for the wiring I plan on ripping it all out, replace my dash with my uncracked one and go from there. Testing compression and compression ratio are two different things... but that sounds a little low, I may be wrong but I believe a "healthy" L series will measure out at at around 160... is your head gasket good? What about your valve seals? Those are going to be really really stiff for a Z. 8k is equivalent to 448 lbs and 6k is 336 lbs. I am using 225 and 250 lb springs with my coil overs and that's considered stiff for a street car. You may be fine but I was told that anything over 275 in a fairly stock chassis (no roll cage) will be too stiff. Just warning you in case you go to drive the car and it feels too stiff. Summit/jegs sells 2.5" springs in many lengths and spring rates for pretty cheap... Might be worth doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devil_S30 Posted March 14, 2012 Author Share Posted March 14, 2012 Well I havent recieved my coils yet, so we'll see. Its been a little over 3weeks since I ordered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devil_S30 Posted April 29, 2012 Author Share Posted April 29, 2012 So all the shop projects are finished and now all I am focused on is my own car, also my coils have arrived and my flares but I do not think that I will have time to put the flares on. On to the pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OmakZ Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 Cool, keep us updated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devil_S30 Posted April 29, 2012 Author Share Posted April 29, 2012 Will do Matt, were the steelies yours too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devil_S30 Posted May 23, 2012 Author Share Posted May 23, 2012 A lot of work has been done since my last update, so I will not be using the ISC's I picked up. Ran out of time so now those are going up for sale. Yesterday I stayed all night at the shop to finish all the sanding and get the engine bay painted, underside of the hood and hatch. I hope to have her put back together by the end of this week, but we will see. The wiring was also all ripped out, and should be getting rewired tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stunt Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 Nice build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devil_S30 Posted May 24, 2012 Author Share Posted May 24, 2012 Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OmakZ Posted May 24, 2012 Share Posted May 24, 2012 I want paint pictures NOW!!! j/k How long until you get to see her? I might be rolling down to PNP again on Saturday and could drop the Konigs off if you want. They'll look funny until you get your car lowered though. Really you could probably run 195/55R14s on your current wheels and they's look sweet. Either that or buy some Bart's Steelies from Summit like I did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devil_S30 Posted June 17, 2012 Author Share Posted June 17, 2012 Weeeelll...car is painted and put back together, all that's left is to run the wiring. Excuse the dusty car, haven't washed it yet. MOAR PICS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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