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Engine Removal..Will this work?


steve260z

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it will work, but the bolts will be toast. there are probably alot of people who would say no but the hillbilly in me says do it. me and 2 guys just took the head off, wrapped a chain around it and beasted the ***** out but we were pretty f@#kered up and then i had to go to the hardware store to get bolts to bolt the motor to the stand while the other two balanced the block on my core support. never again good sir.

marcus

Edited by akeboshi
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  • 1 month later...

I'm really glad you just went ahead and did it. Too many people get a bit freaked out by some of the simplest issues. There's no reason to freak out about any possible damage to the block. I would have been much more concerned about how secure everything is so that there's no chance of DROPPING the block. Concern for the threads would have never even:-entered my mind. :-D

 

Engines are some pretty tough legos.

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When you torque the head bolts, you clamp them to 60/80 lbs.ft depending on bolt type/lube, etc. if you'd check the load created with such torque, you would see that load for each bolt is around 50,000N. That's 5 tons per bolt ;) Does it answer your question? :D

 

:lol:

 

That Eyebolt screwed into the rear bumper hole will lift the whole car off the ground with a strap on it!

 

Similarly, the eyebolt screwed into the top right-hand tranny bolt hole on the back of the block will do similar things to the engine...

 

Security is important, you get that with pad-eyes and proper angles on the chains/straps/ropes you use when lifting.

 

I guess using three guys to lift a block out is now considered 'Beasting' something out... What is it when you don't have any friends and you do it on your own? No head, no intake, no exhaust... That block is a one-man lifting chore then! I guess you must have REALLY been drinking to need three of you to do it! B)

 

Truthfully, I've wondered with the head off, if you couldn't use a SINGLE pad-eye to lift the block, or block and tranny out. I've never tried a balancing point test on that assembly, and judging from your photo, that front bolt is kinda superfluous. I know my engine lifter does change angles nicely...but a single bolt lifting point...you got to wonder, don't you?

Edited by Tony D
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I like using ratcheting tie down straps. I loop one under the pan in front and one in the rear. Position the hook just 6" above the valve cover and adjust them for balance. As you lift you can tighten the front strap to compensate for the boom angle change. Straps are cheap and won't cause damage. Get the ones rated at at least 1000lbs. I have pulled engines weighing twice as much by myself.

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