luseboy Posted October 26, 2011 Author Share Posted October 26, 2011 Regarding the stitch welding... Someone more knowledgeable can correct me where I'm wrong, but you shouldn't have welded the strut towers solid to the wheel wells. The reason you stitch weld is so that the metal has some room to flex. Either it flexes... or it cracks. You don't want it to crack. From what I'm gathering you want to use the car for, I wouldn't bother with stitch welding. Just get some bad dog subframe connectors, weld those in, and call it a day. As for the rust on the rocker, got any pics? Sounds like it's a small spot. If it is, you should be able to cut it out and weld it up and be fine. Keep in mind, there are cars around that were once missing a huge portion of the rocker before it was replaced. Mine, for example, was (still is) missing pretty much the entire top of the rocker from rust. uh-oh ... I already welded both in...... I really hope it's not too much of a problem... ok now I'm worried. Someone please make me feel like I didn't just ruin my chassis.... I will take a pic soon. It's not bad, just one small hole... maybe the size of a pencil eraser. but it is all rusted around it and I don't know how much of that rust is weak enough to break through... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 (edited) Well without a pict really it's hard to say. But I doubt you've ruined anything. you may want a tower brace just to help prevent any flexing. but for 90% of the people out there, you're not going to do enough romping on it to really damage anything. Besides, if it cracks, you can always weld it again. The stock spot welds never busted, so what's to say your solid weld is going anywhere? I wouldn't worry about it. Especially with the stock engine. Small holes are nothing to patch, Generally it's the frame rails that support most of the car, though the rest of the body is a structural component. Doing like was suggested, and just putting in the Bad Dog rails is plenty strong, and you can use them as a jacking point. But for fixing that spot in the rocker, I don't think you'll have any trouble. but if you're worried about it, put a floor jack under it just in case. Well I'm not sure you're going to like that 240Z tranny, yeah it'll work, but you're going to be turning a lot of revs going down the freeway. a 4speed will be turning about 3500 RPM at 70MPH, where a 5 speed will be cruising at about 2800. it's up to you tho. I've always liked overdrives just for the fuel econ and noise comfort. Good deal on the hi temp paint. It should look good, what's most important is that YOU like it since it's your car. Good choice on the brakes. no sense buying way more expensive parts, but look into the 84 Z31 rotors with the toyota calipers. that should setup the front, then the rears there's a lot you can do, but the drums will work in the meantime, and the kits to rebuild them are like 10 bucks each. As for your ignition and missing interior parts. Well Ebay is my first choice. aside from that there's a lot of people on here and around the community that have parts, so no worries there, just look in the classifieds. Good choice on the wiring. It's a ton of work to rewire everything. I'd recommend getting a 4x8 sheet of plywood and some nails, then hang the harness on there, to plan out all your connectors, and where in the car things will mount. Once it's all labelled and you've got your connectors set, then mount your fusebox, and run the circuits based on how you had it on the board. that way you won't be struggling to run each circuit one at a time, and you'll know which ones are going through where in the chassis. It'll be nice to have the extra circuits. As for your engine. If it's already got the new seals and such setup then good deal. no worries about replacing them, but if it's apart, you might be ahead to replace then with known good seals as compared to hoping the once you've got are good. The engines are old, the rubber is old, so just because it LOOKS good, doesn't mean it is. Ounce of prevention etc etc etc.. The rear oil seal, I seem to remember that with the oil pan off that you can replace that carefully. I dunno, it's been a while since I tore down an L28. someone else likely knows. Your suspension mods. I would really recommend you swap out all the bushings first before you get into swapping springs and such. 30 year old bushings have a lot of slop to them, where new ones will make the car feel tighter, more nimble, less roll. better alignments stuff like that. $800/tires I'm talking a set of 5, pirelli's or Michelins. I've also spent good money on Dunlops, and even a set of Yoko's. Phar Edited October 26, 2011 by Pharaohabq Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luseboy Posted October 27, 2011 Author Share Posted October 27, 2011 Well without a pict really it's hard to say. But I doubt you've ruined anything. you may want a tower brace just to help prevent any flexing. but for 90% of the people out there, you're not going to do enough romping on it to really damage anything. Besides, if it cracks, you can always weld it again. The stock spot welds never busted, so what's to say your solid weld is going anywhere? I wouldn't worry about it. Especially with the stock engine. Small holes are nothing to patch, Generally it's the frame rails that support most of the car, though the rest of the body is a structural component. Doing like was suggested, and just putting in the Bad Dog rails is plenty strong, and you can use them as a jacking point. But for fixing that spot in the rocker, I don't think you'll have any trouble. but if you're worried about it, put a floor jack under it just in case. Well I'm not sure you're going to like that 240Z tranny, yeah it'll work, but you're going to be turning a lot of revs going down the freeway. a 4speed will be turning about 3500 RPM at 70MPH, where a 5 speed will be cruising at about 2800. it's up to you tho. I've always liked overdrives just for the fuel econ and noise comfort. Good deal on the hi temp paint. It should look good, what's most important is that YOU like it since it's your car. Good choice on the brakes. no sense buying way more expensive parts, but look into the 84 Z31 rotors with the toyota calipers. that should setup the front, then the rears there's a lot you can do, but the drums will work in the meantime, and the kits to rebuild them are like 10 bucks each. As for your ignition and missing interior parts. Well Ebay is my first choice. aside from that there's a lot of people on here and around the community that have parts, so no worries there, just look in the classifieds. Good choice on the wiring. It's a ton of work to rewire everything. I'd recommend getting a 4x8 sheet of plywood and some nails, then hang the harness on there, to plan out all your connectors, and where in the car things will mount. Once it's all labelled and you've got your connectors set, then mount your fusebox, and run the circuits based on how you had it on the board. that way you won't be struggling to run each circuit one at a time, and you'll know which ones are going through where in the chassis. It'll be nice to have the extra circuits. As for your engine. If it's already got the new seals and such setup then good deal. no worries about replacing them, but if it's apart, you might be ahead to replace then with known good seals as compared to hoping the once you've got are good. The engines are old, the rubber is old, so just because it LOOKS good, doesn't mean it is. Ounce of prevention etc etc etc.. The rear oil seal, I seem to remember that with the oil pan off that you can replace that carefully. I dunno, it's been a while since I tore down an L28. someone else likely knows. Your suspension mods. I would really recommend you swap out all the bushings first before you get into swapping springs and such. 30 year old bushings have a lot of slop to them, where new ones will make the car feel tighter, more nimble, less roll. better alignments stuff like that. $800/tires I'm talking a set of 5, pirelli's or Michelins. I've also spent good money on Dunlops, and even a set of Yoko's. Phar Thank you for your reply! you have a lot of useful advice, I appreciate you passing it along! Yes I plan on getting a top-end performance triangulating stb front and rear so that should tie it all together nicely. I think you're right about just welding in the cracks if they occur. Hell if it gets really bad I'll just do a tube front end! I should be totaly fine though haha. I need to buy more sheet, which I will use on the rocker. I'm sure it will work out just fine! Ya I know I won't love the tranny. But I'd rather save the money for other things and get it on the road. It's not that crazy hard to change out a transmission, and I'm still undecided as to what 5 speed I want. I will probably end up doing an s13 5 speed, but that takes a lot of custom work and the cost adds up, so I want to leave it for later, as I'd rather spend money on suspension and the chassis for now. Well I only need plugs, wires, and a coil. I will probably buy the coil and wires from msa, and then figure out what plugs I want and get them wherever they're cheapest (got any advice on which plugs to go with?). Ya I'm sure wiring is going to be the least-fun part of the build... not excited for that part. But at least with the ez harness I will know that it's all good, instead of hoping that my datsun harness isn't all bus-ah-mitated. Plus I will have a modern fuse box and I can run everything cleanly. It will also make doing my hatch re-locate for the battery much easier. And it's already wired for an electronic fuel pump and other things I plan on doing. It just plain makes sense. Well I have the engine mostly torn down, I just decided to not pull the pistons or crank (don't worry I've pulled some of the caps to check the bearings, and they look totaly fine!), so I'm replacing every gasket except the rear main seal since I won't be pulling the crank... But I have all new seals, including a rear main, so I was just trying to see if someone knew how to do it without pulling the crank... The suspension bushings will all be replaced with urethane as I mentioned before. They are all deteriorated. I want to do s13 coils, adjustable LCA's, stiffer sway bars (still trying to find what will handle the best, anyone have any opinions?), RCA's, adjustable TC rods (maybe... haven't decided). So it's all in the plans. Everything will get replaced or rebuilt. I won't be skimping on tires. I plan to get max/extreme performance summer tires in a 215/55r/15 size, or near it. I haven't decided yet on tires, but I'm sure I can find something that will work. Tires are really important to me. I find it silly when people spend thousands of dollars on suspension mods, then put crappy stretched tires on their expensive wheels. It just puts all the suspension mods to shame. That said though, I will be buying some cheap tires for my pair of centerline solid alloy's that came on the front of the car. Just as a pair to put on the back for fun, or if I ever do drift nights here. Anyways yes, this car will be built to what I like. Not what I love in all situations because thats too expensive... haha. But when it doesn't cost too much... I will do what I love. Well I decided today that painting a car isn't that big of a deal, you just have to be willing to put the time into it... so I may end up just painting the car myself. We'll see. I will be painting the engine bay some ridiculous color myself, at some point. In case you haven't realized at this point, I'm into the crazy colors, so you can expect to see a lot of them here . Also I love splatter paint so that will be featured on a lot of my parts, but not on the exterior paint, as I think it ruins the lines of a car then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luseboy Posted October 28, 2011 Author Share Posted October 28, 2011 Ok well upon inspection today... my frame rails are severely F-ed up, on both sides. So I will be ordering baddog rails and sub frame connectors soon. Since I have so much rust on these... I'm thinking I need to cut out most of the rust spots and then weld on the new rails. But would it work to just treat the rust with something? I saw a recent thread about the same thing... but looking for whatever answers I can find. Anyways I should be able to afford coil overs by the week after next and I'm picking up my tranny next week. For right now, I'm focusing on my engine compartment and some other small projects, I'm taking a break from floor pans haha. Also... decided I'm going to paint the car myself. It's another one of those things that just takes time to do but if you do it right it will turn out just fine. I will probably rattle can it. So I will start doing prep/body work pretty soon. I still have to decide on color... I'm thinking green is going to be the best. I might go orange though. Oh and my boss gave me a free K&N cold air intake for an audi a6 today so I have a cone filter and some piping to play around with. I'm gonna put the filter in the cowl area, assuming I can make it clear the wiper linkages. Should be cool if I do it right. Also pulled my door panels today and got my key code. Blank keys are en route from somewhere far away. Will be nice to have keys. more questions: -How do I figure out which diff I have so I can get the right speedo cog? -What should I do with my gas tank? I've read of people "boiling them out" how do i do this? what's the deal with it? -does anyone still make a locking gas cap? I have one but no key for it... -does anyone make a passenger side mirror that looks like the stock mirror? I love the look of the stock mirror, but I want 2 of them... -is it possible to put in just the heater and not the a/c? I hate a/c's... but heaters are very usefull... if it can be done, what all do I need? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted October 28, 2011 Share Posted October 28, 2011 For the diff, turn both output shafts at the same time, and count how many times the input shaft turns for every full turn of the output shafts. That should be your ratio. If it's the stock R180, I believe it should be a 3.36:1 ratio. For the mirrors, I'm just guessing which ones you have, but they sell replicas on eBay in pairs. They're not an exact copy, but close enough. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-240Z-260Z-280Z-CHROME-PAIR-FENDER-DOOR-MIRROR-/310353607742?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4842843c3e As for your intake, I don't get why you want to put it under the cowl. I've seen it done once, and that's because the guy installed a VQ35, and the intake points backwards on those, so he didn't have much choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luseboy Posted October 28, 2011 Author Share Posted October 28, 2011 For the diff, turn both output shafts at the same time, and count how many times the input shaft turns for every full turn of the output shafts. That should be your ratio. If it's the stock R180, I believe it should be a 3.36:1 ratio. For the mirrors, I'm just guessing which ones you have, but they sell replicas on eBay in pairs. They're not an exact copy, but close enough. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-240Z-260Z-280Z-CHROME-PAIR-FENDER-DOOR-MIRROR-/310353607742?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4842843c3e As for your intake, I don't get why you want to put it under the cowl. I've seen it done once, and that's because the guy installed a VQ35, and the intake points backwards on those, so he didn't have much choice. Ah thats a good trick! Thanks! I don't know if it's stock or not... but I do believe it to be seeing as how nothing else was modified that I could find... And those are the right shape, but in chrome. That could probably be changed though... Thanks for the link! I know it won't make a huge difference (or much of one at all really), but if I can put that area to use, I think it would be great. Plus as I understand it, the cowl area has a nice low pressure for sucking in air. And it would be different. Not to mention I'd love to hear it better, and it would probably keep the IAT's pretty cool, which would be nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luseboy Posted November 14, 2011 Author Share Posted November 14, 2011 ok, so I have a couple little updates. I decided to sell the mini and buy a prelude or something, just to last me a couple months and to have cash to finish the Z. Craigslist is being wierd... and the ad isn't showing up so I haven't gottan any emails or anything (if anyone wants a mini, pm me!). Hopefully I will be able to get enough cash to finish the Z in a couple months, which would be awesome! Also changed my mind on suspension and decided sectioned strut tubes with some illuminas and a gc coil-over set up would suit the Z better. I ordered a gc setup from TTT this morning, with 225# fronts and 250# rears, so that should be good. Too bad I won't be able to acctually install them until I have enough for struts. But I will probably get struts in pairs. I will be using AW11 mr2 rear coilovers in the front, and stock size front 240z coilovers in the rear. I think this will be the perfect set up for me, or at least I hope so! more on this later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luseboy Posted November 22, 2011 Author Share Posted November 22, 2011 (edited) Well I got my coil over kit. It came in 2 days, turns out TTT is only about 2 hours from here. Funnily enough, they're located in the same city that I bought my shell in! If anyone is on the fence about the gc kit, go for it! It is such good qaulity. I didn't want to go for them at first because there's kinda a stigma about gc sleeves with other car communities, or at least the ones I've been on. Well I think they work great for the Z as long as you don't drop too low and you section the strut tubes. The set is very high quality, I'm really impressed with it acctually. Lately I haven't been doing that much work to the car... I've just been running out of projects and waiting on getting money. The head and block are mated and timed, and the engine is basically all back together now. I just need to time the dizzy/oil pump shaft and put gaskets under the valve cover, oil pan, and cam timing cover. I also need to repaint the block since I did a crappy job and most of the paint has flaked off already lol. so once I get the motor back to my house I will mask it off and paint it again. I'm gonna get the key blanks I got off ebay cut this week (probably tomorrow). Hopefully I can get a key made for the gas cap while I'm at it. If I'm really lucky, I might be able to get the gas cap re-keyed to accept the key for the Z, but I doubt it. Unless... were locking gas caps a factory option? Is it possible that the gas cap matches the door locks and ignition key already? I hadn't thought of that before...I always just assumed it would be a different key. Also, I really like the g-nose look... so I have been looking into how I can achieve getting a G-nose... has anyone bought anything off this website? their kit is a good price http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/240z.html but it seems like a really out of date website. I sent them an email, I guess we'll see what happens. I'm gonna start doing body work soon. I gotta start getting all the exterior stuff so I can start painting. I decided I'm going to turn my garage into a spray booth for a week or whatever and paint the car. I'm gonna hate life during that time most likely haha. Anyways thoughts on g nose? I just don't really like the other air dams that much. If I get one it will be an msa type 1 and I'll shave the bumper holes and make a custom grill. But the g-nose just looks so cool, especially without headlight covers. thoughts?? oh and I started doing some body work. I welded in a piece under the antenna hole and ground down the weld flush. It will clean up nicely with some body filler. Then I ground down the welds I did before in the rivet holes from the side gaurd things in the rear qaurter, and ground down the rivets themselves from the door. Then I poked my head under the car just because... and someone has fitted an electronic fuel pump at some point... or at least that's what it appears to be, gold cylinder with wires coming out of it and a gas line at each end. So that's kinda cool, I wonder if it still works. Edited November 23, 2011 by luseboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grretc Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 Austin..in case that site doesn't work out for you there are others. http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt46936/Z.C.C__ZG___G_Nose_ If you really want to do it nice and have the $$ for O.E. PM me and I will point you in that direction. or.... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/101014-trust-single-turbo-manifold-and-eva-5-piece-g-nose/page__p__946787#entry946787 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luseboy Posted November 22, 2011 Author Share Posted November 22, 2011 Austin..in case that site doesn't work out for you there are others. http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt46936/Z.C.C__ZG___G_Nose_ If you really want to do it nice and have the $$ for O.E. PM me and I will point you in that direction. or.... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/101014-trust-single-turbo-manifold-and-eva-5-piece-g-nose/page__p__946787#entry946787 Thanks for the links minh! jeez I did not realize how much the oem ones go for . I can't imagine how much an imported NOS g-nose would be... And I did see the z-force one before, and I may end up going with that one. But the one I linked is like $400, probably too good to be true... but maybe not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luseboy Posted November 22, 2011 Author Share Posted November 22, 2011 (edited) well I just called the place I linked to. I got a message machine... so we'll see what happens. Left my name and number and stuff so we'll see if they ever call back... Edited November 22, 2011 by luseboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luseboy Posted November 30, 2011 Author Share Posted November 30, 2011 Just ordered rear mr2 aw11 illumina struts so I can start sectioning the front strut tubes on the Z. Then was looking on ebay and saw some toyota s12-8 calipers that had been on there for weeks for 80 obo. offered the guy 60, he accepted. So I can start setting up my front end with suspension and brakes. Haven't sold the mini yet... but once I do **** will happen! Also pretty much figured out my exhaust- MSA ceramic coated 6-1 wrapped with dei header wrap to a 2.5" custom with a 12" cherry bomb glasspack to a hooker aerochamber. I like a pretty quiet exhaust, hence why I chose to use 2 different mufflers. Are flex pipes required? my gut is to use one, but looking on youtube, it seems like a lot of people's exhausts were moving with revs, which I assume means no flex pipe? What should I do about that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 I think a flex-pipe is more necessary on a transverse mounted engine, where the exhaust tilts up and down with engine torque. I don't worry about it as much on a longitudinally mounted engine, since soft exhaust mounts should be able to accommodate the slight bit of twist (unless your engine mounts are screwed). Nice job, seems like you're moving along nicely! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luseboy Posted November 30, 2011 Author Share Posted November 30, 2011 I think a flex-pipe is more necessary on a transverse mounted engine, where the exhaust tilts up and down with engine torque. I don't worry about it as much on a longitudinally mounted engine, since soft exhaust mounts should be able to accommodate the slight bit of twist (unless your engine mounts are screwed). Nice job, seems like you're moving along nicely! That makes sense... I was only basing it off the fact that it was completely necessary on the mini (fwd car...), or you'd bend, crack, or snap your header . I will not use a flex pipe on this car then! It makes sense now that its not needed on a traditional RWD set up. thanks man! I can't wait to finish it. Im gonna start doing body work soon. I don't think i'll be very happy about doing that haha. does not look fun... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luseboy Posted December 6, 2011 Author Share Posted December 6, 2011 gland nuts are such a ***** . I'm on the first one (driver's side front) and even after some liberal heat, penetrating oil, and a ton of swearing (I don't know whats wrong, it usually works!), I'm on day 4 of project get that f*cking gland nut out. Broke down today and borrowed my dad's 18" monkey wrench and 3 lb sledge. Won't freaking budge. The main problem I'm having is that the monkey wrench slips off the top of the gland nut onto the strut, so I can't get a good whack at it. I'm going to take the whole ass. with me to the bike shop tomorrow, and use some pb blaster + heat + a vise on the gland nut and a cheater pipe. Wish me luck! If that doesn't work... well then I'm going to weld the strut shaft to the gland nut, then a nut to the strut shaft, then I'll try an air rachet on it or some more serious muscle haha. I'm acctually looking forward to the spindle pins, there's only 2 of them! Plus the tool rental should make quick work of it. I think I'm going to non-op the car this week as it's currently not registered. and I'm going to get some mig wire and gas in hopes of having the strongest welds I can get for my coilover set up. I was really hoping to have my front coilovers done by now . Oh well. It gives me some down time to do other front suspension mods. Christmas is coming up soon. I'm hoping I can get some cool parts from my parents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luseboy Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 Well so far day 5 has been un-successful with getting that god forsaken gland nut off. Couldn't get a good enough hold on the nut in a vise. Got some PB blaster in there though so we'll try again. Tonight, I'll try my Gf's dad's trick of using a giant pair of channel locks. We'll see how that goes. The hexagonal part of the gland nut has started to come off from the threaded part. If it ends up totaly spinning off, what do I do then? Cut out the threaded piece? If it stays on and the channel locks don't work, the next thing I'll try is cutting a notch in the gland nut and hammer and chiseling it out. If that doesn't work, I'll be left with welding the strut shaft to the gland nut, and welding a nut onto the shaft. Then I'll have to use an air impact wrench or ratchet and just hope it will come off. Does anyone have any other tricks? This is really starting to suck haha. Are strut tubes available anywhere? I couldn't seem to find them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luseboy Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 FINALLY got that stupid thing out of there. My god that was insane. What finally did it was clamping the nut in a vise tightened down like f*cking crazy, a piece of wood bracing the strut tube, a 6 foot breaker bar over the hub spindle (hope to god that didn't bend), and lightly hitting the strut tube over the threaded portion with a brass mallet. Heat would have helped, but I forgot to bring the torch to my gf's and her dad couldn't find his so we did without it. For the next one we will do the same but with heat as well. What a huge pain. I wish they'd have put more thought into that when they designed the car. Well of course the strut is stuck inside the strut tube. I put a bunch of penetrating oil over the top of it to let it soak in between the insert and the tube, I'll see if I can work the insert out of the tube tomorrow, or if I have to drill a hole in the bottom and punch it out. Hopefully it won't be as hard as this stupid gland nut was! I still can't believe how crazy that was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billseph Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Glad you were able to get it done...I was feeling your pain when I read your posts...the large part you gripped in the vise with yours actually sheared off of the threaded portion on both my front gland nuts so I cut the strut rod off (they were junk) and welded a 3 foot bar to mine to get 'em out. Hope your cartridges come out easy...I had no problems with mine...they actually came out semi-attached to the gland nut Great project by the way...I've been watching since you started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luseboy Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 Glad you were able to get it done...I was feeling your pain when I read your posts...the large part you gripped in the vise with yours actually sheared off of the threaded portion on both my front gland nuts so I cut the strut rod off (they were junk) and welded a 3 foot bar to mine to get 'em out. Hope your cartridges come out easy...I had no problems with mine...they actually came out semi-attached to the gland nut Great project by the way...I've been watching since you started. haha ya me too. I was starting to fear that the project was over if I wasn't able to get the nut off. I had already ruined the strut insert with heat and marring of the strut shaft. Well the insert is still stuck. I won't be able to try and take it out until tonight when I get off work, but hopefully it will budge. If not I will just drill a hole in the bottom as has seemed to work with everyone else. But the penetrating oil should help. Sounds like you had a tougher time than me! Thanks! I haven't put up enough pictures and stuff, But I haven't really done anything that interesting yet. Hopefully I will be getting the front end done soon. That would be cool. I'm going to focus on sectioning this strut for now and putting the coilover kit on. Then the RCA's, adjustable LCA's, rebuilding of the steering rack, etc. will come. Quick question: Does anyone know of any urethane strut mounts made to replace the stock ones? I don't like rubber strut mounts! Are there any ways to modify one from a different car? or are there any that fit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luseboy Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 got the strut out! acctually wasn't that hard, took like 10 minutes. I just drilled a hole through the bottom big enough for one of my nail punches, hit that with a sledge a couple times and out came an oem strut! Must have been the original. Felt kinda wierd taking it out of it's 40 year resting place. There was no oil, just some rust dust. the strut was beyond blown, the shaft sat at about half way and took almost no force to push in, then rebounded very very slowly. When I accidentaly drilled through it, only a small amount of oil slowly dripped out haha. And there I was worrying about the strut blowing up! haha. Well anyways did some measuring and looks like I'll need to chop off 4 cm from the strut tube. It's about 1.5 inches which is what I have read all over the internet. Anyways I will start doing that pretty soon. Im going to get some mig wire and gas, I don't trust the flux-cored set up with something this critical. Also I finally got the headgasket inbetween the timing cover and head, because it slipped into the place where the chain goes when I put the timing cover on. I didn't notice till about a week ago. But I just had to loosen the head bolts and pry the head up from both sides and try and get the gasket in there. took about an hour of cursing haha. But my engine is basically done... Only missing some bolt on stuff and some torquing. Pretty happy with that. Today was a productive day and got me back in the right mindset to get the car going. And If I'm lucky, I'll have a set of triple weber 40 dcoe's under my christmas tree in a few weeks . One can only dream Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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