akeboshi Posted September 29, 2011 Share Posted September 29, 2011 hello, ive been slowly gathering all the components to convert my ms2 l28 to ford edis distributorless ignition. i just wanted to share my pics with you all regarding my vr mount and pulley and to give the proper thank yous to the people here that i got my ideas from. first of all brapp for his idea of turning down the pulley on a lathe and pressing on the ford code wheel, it was by far the cheapest (and in my opinion smartest)way to mount the code wheel. also to the horny z guy, i kind of copied his idea for mounting the stock coil (although i wanted to buy it from him anyways! lol everybody is busy, i understand) and finally to theramz for his idea to mount the vr sensor although i simplified it somewhat. without further adieu the pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzzydicerule Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 To save you some future headaches, your plug wires are run wrong. 1 pack needs to go to 1 and 6, the next to 2 and 5, and the last to 3 and 4, you have them run 1-2, 3-4, 5-6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akeboshi Posted November 4, 2011 Author Share Posted November 4, 2011 thanks man, i just plugged them all in to see how it looked but thanks for doing my homework for me! marcus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazeum Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 (edited) I'm digging up this topic I'm thinking about going with EDIS also on my setup with Megojolt. I've got questions about the pictures above. The damper currently on my engine is the same unit (2 rows from 280zx apparently) The wheel is on the outer "cage" of the damper. Shouldn't we fear some erratic signal with incorrect timing due to damper movements/action? How are the movements from the damper, by the way? it could be a rotation (bad for timing reading) but it could also be a radial movement (so no impact on timing or very minor but on clearance between VR sensor and wheel). Should we instead consider a wheel to be bolted on the 2 holes available on the damper? Those are M6, would they be sufficient to hold the wheel? Regarding pros & cons of the 2 solutions, the first one seems better from a dimensional stand point (runout of the wheel is probably very good), second would provide more stable reading since wheel would be connected to damper hub directly. However, good wheel position will be difficult to achieve. I'm wondering if I cannot ask my machinist to machine the 2nd row on the damper to make the 36-1 pattern directly on the damper without using a wheel. I should achieve the same results as the wheel pressed on. Akeboshi, would you have a feedback regarding your build since then? Any feedback? Edited June 29, 2012 by Lazeum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 I purchased Dereks wheel. The only issue is with the stock fan and fan clutch for clearance. If your running it with the old 240Z with dealer installed A/C the fan will clear from what I can tell. Dereks wheel is a bolt on deal and there is no need to use those 6mm bolt holes. I would not be able to even tell you if those bolt holes are all in the same location on all the dampeners. They might be. Who knows how the keyway was cut initially though. Dereks wheel is also adjustable once installed via 4 6mm allen bolts. Im 4 Ford Modular COP's and one Mega Jolt away from firing mine off, but its on the back burner behind 2 other major projects at this time. I highly recommend Dereks setup. By far the best EDIS trigger wheel and sensor mount Ive seen on the market for our engines. And the bugs are all pretty much worked out already. The only bit of feedback I can offer on your idea is, that your balancer and pretty much all the balancers out there are 30+ years old and being held together with an elastimer band that has or will likely slip. So using it as you timing reference point may not be a good idea. Not to mention air gap and the posibility that the dampner is not exactly aligned on that elastimer band with the precision needed. Not to say it wont work, but the whole point of the system is to get rock solid accurate ignition timing. And to use an example of this logic, check out most OE applications like the EDIS or GM systems you will note the trigger wheel is solid mounted in most cases to the crank in some way before the elastimer band. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noddle Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 (edited) I did mine like this http://noddle.clante...EDIS/index.html if I was to do it again, I would put the "pick up" inside the fan belt, (between water pump / alternator / crank pull ) it works very well Nigel Edited June 30, 2012 by Noddle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazeum Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 Regarding Derek's solution, it is very clean, it looks fanstatic but the damper I have is not the correct one. So I either have to change it and get Derek's parts or design (since I'm not sure he's still doing some) Nigel, I've been looking at your solution already and this is what I expected to do but the distance between the wheel and the block where I was expecting to mount the VR sensor sensor support is important. I am fearing some vibration issue with such a long arm. So your solution is what I would have done and your feedback is what I'm fearing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 You could get your damper rebuilt by the Damper Doc. My machinist didn't want to balance my engine with my stock damper the way it was. I think the cost was around a 100$, it looked good and the Damper Doc said the damper was good for 8k rpm and more HP than I could throw at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noddle Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 (edited) Nigel, I've been looking at your solution already and this is what I expected to do but the distance between the wheel and the block where I was expecting to mount the VR sensor sensor support is important. I am fearing some vibration issue with such a long arm. So your solution is what I would have done and your feedback is what I'm fearing The arm does not move. it's made of 4mm steel ( from memory ), and shaped so it will not flex, 3 sides, the base is 6mm I have had no issues what soever ( besides a melted shorting wire ) Nigel Edited July 2, 2012 by Noddle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazeum Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 (edited) Nigel, I have reviewed your setup, I thought your VR sensor mount was bolted on the engine block which isn't right. It might work good this way, I trust you. I see you also have a 1 row damper which makes the mount smaller as well. something I don't get is why you've chosen to make a separate support to press the wheel on. Wouldn't it be faster to make a new wheel with the correct bolt pattern to get 1-piece wheel instead? Is it a problem with runout maybe? fabrication issue? I'm gathering parts for now (as well as enjoying my Z while weather is good and the Z in good running condition - which is not so often!) but I might have soon to remove the damper to look more closely about opportunities Your setup might be the way to go for me. I have access to laser cutting option to make parts from some suppliers. Edited July 2, 2012 by Lazeum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noddle Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 ......something I don't get is why you've chosen to make a separate support to press the wheel on. Wouldn't it be faster to make a new wheel with the correct bolt pattern to get 1-piece wheel instead? Is it a problem with runout maybe? fabrication issue? When I got my EDIS setup from the US, for me, it was easier to press the wheel on, I had limited access to a lathe, so this is the way I went, but you should look at putting the pickup on the 'inside', I have not replace the fan belt yet, and the way I did mine will add an extra 20-30 minutes to the process, since I would have to remove the pickup to do it. Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazeum Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 (edited) Just to let you know, EDIS + Megajolt should be home quite shortly In the mean time, I'm working on my setup. I'm getting inspired by Derek's solution & lesson learned from you, Nigel. here's the concept so far: and this is how my support looks like for now: It is getting close. I'll take some measurements from the EDIS kit to come to adjust everything. I will make a carb board template first nd then kick off the fabrication in aluminum. It should work nice at the end Edited July 31, 2012 by Lazeum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 (edited) Just to let you know, EDIS + Megajolt should be home quite shortly In the mean time, I'm working on my setup. I'm getting inspired by Derek's solution & lesson learned from you, Nigel. here's the concept so far: and this is how my support looks like for now: It is getting close. I'll take some measurements from the EDIS kit to come to adjust everything. I will make a carb board template first nd then kick off the fabrication in aluminum. It should work nice at the end Damn, I'm taking waaay too long to finish my MJLJ install! BTW, this is Derek's setup. Edited July 31, 2012 by Leon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Still a long way from using this set-up, but it is there for when i'm ready This is the approach I'm taking for the "wheel". Then use a cherry hall effect sensor. Maybe more work, but if you happen to have the engine and tranny seperated... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazeum Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 (edited) My setup design will depend on crank trigger wheel. I might end with Derek's design at the end... It's always good to get pictures from others. I'm collecting EDIS setup & VR sensor pictures for 6 months now ! For the flywheel, I thought about that but I wasn't sure yet when I was building my engine if I wanted to go EDIS. Since my 6AL box has fried, I've changed my mind It looks very clean & subtle, I like it a lot! Edited July 31, 2012 by Lazeum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 The idea came from this site in the megasquirt forums. I believe it was member X4 or something. He only used 4 points to trigger his edis and he said it work great. The best part of this set-up is cost. I did this myself on a drill press and then had the flywheel rebalanced. The hall effect sensors are 20$ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazeum Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 To balance the flywheel, the machine shop who took care of my crankshaft had to balance the crank as well. It was a 400€ bill I wanted to make the stock flywheel lighter but balancing operation cost was too much... the reason is they had no way to lock the flywheel in a machine without crank so it was their only option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 I think you could get away without balancing if you only did this only every 90 degrees= 4 holes. As long as you took your time and measured out carefully. I actually used a 11 inch degree wheel and marked the flywheel every 10 degrees and went from there. Most cases the flywheel is balanced independently, yours obviously is different Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazeum Posted September 16, 2012 Share Posted September 16, 2012 (edited) For your info, I've received all the bits to start the install process. The plan will be to weld the 36-1 wheel to my damper. The damper for now is machined to be slightly smaller than the wheel. So there's no play to be felt between both parts but I can rotate the wheel around the damper. Hopefully rubber won't melt during the process, I'll be gentle with heat. Regarding the VR sensor support, here's the design: 2 parts, 1 plate & 1 tower.I've added some slots for adjustability. Time to get a quote for it Full Assy Edited September 16, 2012 by Lazeum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 Nice job, Matt! Looks like you are on your way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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