Leon Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 Looks great, Clive! Are you running a reverse flow cooling system or is the upper rad hose on backwards? Late nights can do that to you, believe me. I ran into very similar issues when setting up to coil pack, in terms of firing order. I've got a video in my build thread that shows the coil pack and its firing order. The stock mechanical pump delivers enough fuel for my needs, but I'm running an L24 with a stock cam. I removed the 260Z electrical pump, put a new filter back there and it's running great. FWIW, when I was using the electric pump back there, all I did was jump a relay in order to get it to run during key "ON". I believe I jumped the alternator (engine speed sensing) relay but didn't bother with the starter relay since I was using the mech pump as well. Looking at the wiring diagram, jump BW and GW on the alternator relay connector and the same colors on the starter relay connector and you will effectively bypass the relays without needing to run extra wiring (besides the jumpers)! If you do this, I recommend installing an inertia or oil-pressure switch in the circuit as a safety. I didn't have issues with the J-hook on my early 260Z, but the rod that connects the bellcrank to the J-hook bracket had to be adjusted to max length. I see why you have issues, your Webers have their throttle cranks on the opposite side. This build is looking awesome! Better get some good video... or else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted October 28, 2012 Author Share Posted October 28, 2012 I am working on it! Thanks for all the tips Leon. So good and bad news - Finally got the engine started and idle with some imput from the gas pedal and oil pressure has built up. BUT the engine only runs when I have spark plug 1-2-3 conencted or 4-5-6. Either combo will start the engine but not all connected at the same time. I have comfirmed timing almost 10 times now. I am attempting to start this car without the MegaJolt hooked up as EDIS should run at 10 degrees BTDC as its default setting. I have confirmed spark from each coil. I do a backfire through the carbs when I have all spark plugs are connected. I did switch the wire around yesterday to get the correct firing order of EDIS - ACB (coil A has cylinder 1 n 6) (coil B has cylinder 2 & 5) (coil C has cylinder 3 & 4). Second issue is, after the engine running for a seconds there is more coolant around the head. I plan on head cycling the engine a few times before I am forced to pull the back off. On another side note - did a quick compression test I am getting a range from 115-150, normal? I know the engine has not been run yet and this was before I actually got her fired over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rags Posted October 29, 2012 Share Posted October 29, 2012 I think I figured out what is going on. Give me a call. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted October 29, 2012 Author Share Posted October 29, 2012 Ok with some reading and talking with Rags, I believe we found where I went wrong. I should have read more of 1 fast Z post because the answer was right in my face. So to run waste spark the coils have to be in series not parallel like I have them wired. I will try to come up with a nice picture of this but in text form see below: 12v+ source--------------- + side of coil 1 - side of coil 1 -------------- + side of coil 6 - side of coil 6 -----------EDIS-A 12v+ source--------------- + side of coil 5 - side of coil 5 -------------- + side of coil 2 - side of coil 2 -----------EDIS-C 12v+ source--------------- + side of coil 3 - side of coil 3 -------------- + side of coil 4 - side of coil 4 -----------EDIS-B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted October 29, 2012 Share Posted October 29, 2012 Nice, that makes sense! I didn't realize you were running COP. Aural L-series pleasure awaits! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted October 30, 2012 Author Share Posted October 30, 2012 Here is a pic of what I am talking about - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted November 13, 2012 Author Share Posted November 13, 2012 So was able to spend all of 30 mins on the car today and excited to report that she runs! Did a quick rewire according to the diagram from the previous post and that solved the problem. She will run with some input from the gas pedal but will not idle yet because there is no true baseline timing map yet. Surprised the garage wasn't full of smoke and the car "smelled" pretty clean. Let her run for about two mins with no smoke coming from the engine itself. One issue I started to see was the oil pressure pegged itself at 90 psi. I had bought a turbo oil pump and has NISMO springs that I swapped in. My memory tells me, I thought the "NISMO" springs were just the turbo 280zx springs that you could upgrade to if you had a N/A pump. I needed the turbo pump because I am running the external spray bar for the cam oiling. Hmmmm...... Dave (cygnusx1) will be helping me dial in the webers later this week. I have to clean up the coil harness, figure out the tach signal and by a laptop to start messing with MJ this weekend. Hopefully she will be off jackstands this weekend! Updates to come this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 So was able to spend all of 30 mins on the car today and excited to report that she runs! Did a quick rewire according to the diagram from the previous post and that solved the problem. She will run with some input from the gas pedal but will not idle yet because there is no true baseline timing map yet. Surprised the garage wasn't full of smoke and the car "smelled" pretty clean. Let her run for about two mins with no smoke coming from the engine itself. One issue I started to see was the oil pressure pegged itself at 90 psi. I had bought a turbo oil pump and has NISMO springs that I swapped in. My memory tells me, I thought the "NISMO" springs were just the turbo 280zx springs that you could upgrade to if you had a N/A pump. I needed the turbo pump because I am running the external spray bar for the cam oiling. Hmmmm...... Dave (cygnusx1) will be helping me dial in the webers later this week. I have to clean up the coil harness, figure out the tach signal and by a laptop to start messing with MJ this weekend. Hopefully she will be off jackstands this weekend! Updates to come this week. Nice Clive! I've got a map that I ran on the dyno, it's aggressive but my engine is an internally stock L24. Now the real fun begins! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted November 16, 2012 Author Share Posted November 16, 2012 Thanks Leon - finally heading up tonight to work on the Z again and all day tomorrow. Hopefully she will be on the grounf tomorrow. I plan on chaning out the oil pressure unit as a sanity check. Today's plan is to finish the wiring harness and relay installed inside the car. Also need to run a line to the MAP sensor. Getting close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted November 18, 2012 Author Share Posted November 18, 2012 Took the car for a quick spin today - 2 miles! Fixed the high oil pressue issue today, removed the inner (smaller) spring from the Nismo set that I had. Oil pressure is stable and maxes out around 60psi. E-fan comes on and works properly and the coolant system holds pressure though I still have the small leak from the head. I also need to change the heater control valve and hoses because now I have a coolant drop inside the car (yay). Still reading on getting my tach to work but I should also grab a spare because I am not sure it is good. It spikes to 8000rpm when I turn the key on. Hmmm Still need to get the entire exhaust installed because I have half of it temp't up under the car. So right now it causes some vibrations throughout the car but that is expected. Overall I am pretty excited about how this car sounds and the feel. The engine response to the right foot is amazing and the only thing that really has me scratching my head is how "clean" the exhaust is. Can't run my LS1 car open header in the garage for 15 mins and not be choking! =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted November 19, 2012 Share Posted November 19, 2012 Sweet! MJ + EDIS really transforms the car and makes response much crisper. Sounds like you're almost to the end of the tunnel. I haven't played much with my tach yet, but I do have the diodes on hand to make it work. Just haven't done it yet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted November 20, 2012 Author Share Posted November 20, 2012 Leon - had the exhaust installed today so put a few more miles on the car. As far as a tach, I will need to get a spare tach because I believe mine is wacked. Currently there is no signal going to it and as soon as the key is on, it spikes to 8k. After driving for any period of time it goes to 1k and stays there. I bought the tach adapter and will look how to wire that up or go the way you are doing it. Not even sure if I have to do a combo of both methods. The MJ does have a tach output. So without the tach I am just driving by ear and I can tell the car will pull nicely above 4000. I do have to adjust the valves now with about 20 miles on it and a quite exhaust I can hear the slight ticking coming from the head. We are getting there..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 When I first got my early 260Z, the tach did the same thing. The PO wired in a starter button, but it was done in such a way as to short-out the instrument panel! The tach was fried and would go to 8k with ignition ON. It worked sometimes, but randomly. A $25 280Z tach from ebay solved the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted November 20, 2012 Share Posted November 20, 2012 Clive, I've got a spare tach you can have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted December 3, 2012 Author Share Posted December 3, 2012 Thanks David - Had someone buy the shop today to buy a project 260z car I had and while there he shot this quick vid: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 Yeah, I drove it around the block yesterday and can say it's pretty quick. I was short shifting it at what I would guess was 4000rpm, but it still was pulling pretty darn hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakk24a Posted December 4, 2012 Share Posted December 4, 2012 Amazing progress you're making on the 260z. BTW, would you be able to list roughly what parts/cost/total cost of the build so far? I only ask because I'm in a position nearly to grab a 260z 2+2 myself but being a student still, this inevitably means I'm going to have to take a lot longer to work on it and wait until I have money to get different parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted December 5, 2012 Author Share Posted December 5, 2012 Jakka24a - sent me a pm. I can try and lay it out or answer any questions you have. Will - I believe I heard you spinning tires Glad you were able to drive it so it gets your blood going to get yours together for next Spring. Will be a great time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted February 1, 2013 Author Share Posted February 1, 2013 Almost two months later and not much has been done on the Z, audio is done but at some point I will need to have the door panels recovered. I did source 350Z leather seats and will get them in the car once warm weather comes back around. So short/long list of items to do - Get the tach working (280z) Swap in 350z seats Wire the oem choke light to no become my shift light set with the MJ 5 speed swap Have flex pipes installed in the exhaust r200 open diff swap -maybe cvs and 280z stub axle upgrade seat of the pants tune! Not sure if I will be taking this car to ZCON this year as I am in the process of picking up another 260z to swap my 240z items to. That is another complete build thread but the car is a great starting point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted February 1, 2013 Share Posted February 1, 2013 Just quickly review this thread again, and damn you're getting close! I don't know if you mentioned this, but where did you get the TWM manifold? Looks like a nice piece, I like it more than the Cannon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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