Tony D Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 Read what you wrote under "#1" in Post 6, then reinforced in Post 8. I don't consider that even an option. You leave the option open. Maybe I think too much about this kind of stuff, but leaving the option open gives the impression, despite what caveats you may place, that it is an acceptable practice. It's like arguing about the rod. You surmised it was weight. It more correctly is to keep the case from having more meat taken out in the area of the bearings on the earlier case which isn't as thick in that area as the later models. Probably a better thought out engineered approach but with the downside that you would have to totally overhaul the transmission when you did any swap... Though changing the rods from what I'm told is not that big a deal apparently. Looks like it to me, but I'm told they come off externally (still means to me at least you have to pull the back off as well, instead of just doing a front-end swapover...) I just mentioned I saw the rods done that way in Japan, and would never of considered doing it that way. Curiously, this is also how the modification was done in Europe on several cars I saw as well. Those updated the rod and used OS Giken Straight-Cut Gears in the box, which are apparently available for the 180SX Tranny... But to answer the question, #1 in Post 6, and again reinforced in Post 8---the option is left open. I prefer not to leave that option open (as stated from the beginning) as it defeats the whole purpose of the stronger transmission in the first place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rejracer Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 There are no caveats. It's plain as day someone can use the 71b bearing. There is no argument on this. "acceptable practice" are you serious? Are you on the acceptable mods comittee? Have you read the hybridz rules to which you agreed to abide by? I don't know why you keep putting words in my mouth. First off I stated what MY opinion is. You even agreed with my first post concerning the strength of the bearing. I laid it out, use small bearing trans is weak, large bearing trans is strong. I don't understand why you feel the need to tell everyone else it's not an option. True it's a weak option, a bad option from a strength perspective, and it totally defeats the purpose of the swap if you are after strength in first place. Just remember to breath when they don't care about the strength. If they want to use one on a low power L series, more power to them. If I give someone the facts and they make the wrong choice, it's on them, does not concern me. Welcome to Hybridz, feel free to make all the bad decisions you feel like after being spoon fed. We will enjoy reading of your mishaps in the shed. Caring less than I care if someone makes the wrong decision on their car has not yet been invented. Wait... Attempting to care, ohh no, failed, sorry. I strive to give good unbiased and complete information, and I don't care if someone uses it in what I think is the wrong way. And for the record, I'm not trying to sway you either way. Do what you want to your car. Just don't give out opinion as fact as then it becomes misinformation. This is why I've responded so many times to this thread already, is to clairify things when it's implied I am saying things I am not. On the not caring theme... more power to them if they want to use this behind a high power L series. Pics of shattered stuff is entertaining. Ahem, thanks Big-Phil, can't wait for the next vid! Secondly I'm not arguing about the rod. The only argument I see here is you are implying I am saying things I am not. I never said they did it to save weight, I said that was an effect, by virtue of steel being heavier than aluminum. I went on to say that if they did this for weight they put too much thought into it! The main point I was making was ease of service should the need ever arise again. I then went on to postulate they increased the rod size for strength, I used the word bend instead of deflect, but the concept was understood. Changing a shift rod is easy, on these transmission it's 2 roll pins, a detent, and keeping track of the ball that prevents the 2-3 rod from actuating while the 1-2 rod not in the neutral position. So it's easy to change the rod. MY comments on the rod were I would not want to deal with that complexity if I had to do an emergency r&r in less than ideal circumstances. I was not talking about doing the swap on the side of the road, I was talking about emergency R&R. If you get too custom on your parts and you have a failure, you just engineered yourself a truck ride home or to the local garage. Yes, I know, I'm paranoid, i've given it too much thought. But then again, I daily drive my Z, I'm taking it to SoCal tomorrow. Regardless reducing the rod diameter is clever. It's not the way I would do it, but that's me. I guess it depends on if a guy has a lathe or a Bridgeport in his garage which way it's going to go. Lastly, you bring up the option thing again. if it's not an option for you, then state it's not for you, not that it's not an option. Saying it's not an option (as in it's not possible or wont work) is just MISINFORMATION. Knowing that you would not do it that way, well I respect that you agree with me on that. Some people have different priorities than ours. Some have certain transmissions laying around (2 people with RB20 trans in this thread alone), some even have lathes instead of Bridgeport (I fall into this category). Some still even have early drive lines laying around. Based on your comments on how many cars you have, I'm sure you have a spare early drive line laying around. What I'm getting at is not everyone cares about strength. Some need a cheap trans and have the parts, some might do it for the synchro'd reverse, I bet we could find someone that has done this swap because they like the new style shifter because it's thicker and they think it looks cool, Some might do this because Z31's will be in the parts yards for the next 10 years others just for the project. For me I want a stronger trans, one that can be replaced on the cheap, and if in a pinch or out of town, I can get parts for. I drive a real world car, not a garage and trailer queen. I'm not trying to be argumentative or show anyone any disrespect, I'm trying to clarify what was said and the intent of it, as well as point out the "there is no best" HBZ rule. Ray's idea will be a good mod if it work out. It sounds like a simple mod that requires no internal machining and bypasses all the points of discussion we have just had. Ray, Thanks for posting, trying to keep this on track! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 As you wish. You win, no caveats. I'll informed is as good as misinformed. Back to the laptop debug... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feifongwong3 Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 (edited) I know that this isn't on the level that the rest of this thread is on, but will the slave cylinder from a FS5W71B work on the FS5W71C? I figured Tony could answer my lowly question. Oh yeah I'd check FAST but I'm 1500 miles away from my comp in Dallas. Been in Maryland for 2 weeks and not going home until the Thursday before Thanksgiving. Edited October 23, 2011 by feifongwong3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Im not a numbers guy, give me the tranny by nomenclature (late ZX or S30 5 speed and 240SX Five speed for example) and I can tell you generally what's what. In that above case, the slaves fit. All the slaves fit. The pushrods are different length. In fact, if you mismatch the collar on the S30 trannies, and it won't let the car move, the shorter rod from the 240SX Slave will fit into the slave you have and usually works to give it a release point. The 240SX uses a different style intermediate cylinder (at least on the 91 I took apart) that is a bit different, but the mounting on the bellhousing is identical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feifongwong3 Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Ok, I was under the assumption that the 280zx FS5W71B 5 speed slave cylinder wouldn't have any problem as is when bolted onto the RB20 FS5W71C 5 speed. I'm trying to get everything together before I get home and start swapping out my L28E to RB20DET. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 Yeah, we got an old Southern saying that is applicable: "Slaves is Slaves!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrcheeze36 Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 Yeah, we got an old Southern saying that is applicable: "Slaves is Slaves!" LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noddle Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 Yeah, we got an old Southern saying that is applicable: "Slaves is Slaves!" NOT "Politically Correct" Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted October 26, 2011 Author Share Posted October 26, 2011 Using a 240Z slave on my RS5R30A in my 260Z. "Slaves is Slaves!" I used the early 240z because it has an adjustable rod linkage... Already knew most of the stuff hashed in this thread through many year of reading on this forum. Knew the boxes where the same. THE RB20 trans may not be available in your wrecking yard, but many of the engine importers have stacks of them like Venus for instance. And they are about the same price as a KA transmission from PNP if you have the ability to get one from a local importer. I havent gotten around to trying to mate the L block and the RB20 trans together, but I do not think the angle is so extreme that it will not work without an adapter plate or changing the bell housing. It looks like a few inches and the need to make a custom shifter lever(bend it) will do the trick. Far less work that swapping the bell housing mod. Ill post if and when I get around to trying this out. I just thought it was interesting that the bolt pattern was so close for the most part. I knew the RB was an evolved L series as well, but it was still kind of a surprise that it was so close. Ray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lurch2461 Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 Here in Oz we tend to machine the L series front housing to suit the bigger bearing, but be advised, there is two (2) RB20DET gearboxes. There is an RP71 & RP71C, the RP71 came out on the HR31 & RP71C came out in R32/33 RB20DET and has double ring syncro's and bigger bearing and is the box to buy as it is by far the stronger of the 2. We also use the Z32 5 speed, as it is identical to an RB25DET box at about half the price. In Oz they sell an RB25DET box for AU$1500.00 plus, but are lucky to get $7-900.00 for an Z32 box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aarc240 Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 Lurch, have you investigated the box from the RB30? It appears to be pretty much identical to the RB20 box, may be a viable option here in Oz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 More to the point, that no one seems to have mentioned yet Tony-If the RB20 box will fit...won't the RB25DET box??? No messing around with getting an adapter plate, just slot them or weld up and redrill for the L bolt pattern... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted November 25, 2011 Author Share Posted November 25, 2011 (edited) More to the point, that no one seems to have mentioned yet Tony-If the RB20 box will fit...won't the RB25DET box??? No messing around with getting an adapter plate, just slot them or weld up and redrill for the L bolt pattern... I have the FS5R30A. I just picked it up this weekend. Dont worry Im bringing it home to compare. EDIT: It appears that the bell are similar enough that you can notch the FS5R30A to fit the L series block afterall. Pics still coming when I have time. I know Im slow guys, but eventually there will be a few more pictures for comparison. I believe the biggest issue you will come across is $$$$$$$$$ for the FS5R30A. Cheapest ones you will find are around $400, but most of them on CL, ebay, etc are averaging a list price of $900+. Thats probably the biggest reason why. Though if we make out like the aussies and use the Z32 TT trans and make an adapter we'd probably spend less in the long run and make it more worth the effort, but thats just a lot of work and time when there really are better options out there(see JeffP's trans swap for instance). Ray Edited November 29, 2011 by rayaapp2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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