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L28 ignition timing


ComicArtist

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So I replaced the distributor, and timed it to 10 degrees at idle.

 

However, it was still slow and sputtery at low rpms, so I gradually advanced it until it seemed to run right. At 16 degrees idle now, it actually goes through the powerband smoothly.

 

Can that cause any problems? It's not detonating, and runs smoother than it did at 10 degrees. Just wondering if anyone else is running advanced timing, and if so, I'd appreciate the input.

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Advanced timing is a great if your motor can take it . If it runs better and doesn't detonate- go for it. You should listen for detonation during times that your vacuum advance is involved in your overall timing. I run 20 initial.

How much mechanical advance are you running? What's your total timing? If you can't answer these questions then it's time to search!

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I'm just running an unmodified stock distributor, using both the vacuum and mechanical advance, so my complete timing should be around 34 degrees. I'm guessing it's kicking in a little early though, since I'm slightly advanced. Where in the rpm-band does the vacuum advance come into play?

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Vacuum. It's controlled by intake manifold vacuum. The specs for the vacuum canister and the mechanical advance mechanism are in the Engine Electrical section of the FSMs. You can use a dial-back timing light or set your timing to zero and measure each, vacuum and centrifugal, independently to be sure. Disconnect the vacuum and measure centrifugal advance, then connect the vacuum to direct intake vacuum to measure vacuum advance.

Edited by NewZed
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Which L28 are you running? If you have open chamber heads, you can run around 38* total timing. If you have a closed chamber head with flat top pistons, 32* is about right.

 

Closed chamber L28's have P79 head from the factory. Everything else is either an open chamber head, or runs dished pistons.

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