CArFAn Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 Okay just a few days ago i finished up my wiring for my 7m swap and i come back to the car a week later and tried to start it and had it running for 30secs then shut it down. Turned the key to the lock position and the pump came on and the motor started to turn over so i pulled the battery cable thinking wtf was that. I put the key in the off position and re connected the battery and started it and turned it off again to the lock position with the same result. Thinking that it was the ignition switch i changed it 3 times all with the same results. Anyone had this happen to them, or can suggest where i start? What would cause the ignition switch to feed power back into the system with the key in the lock position. Any help would be very appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 (edited) I haven't had this happen personally, but when I put a turbo timer in my car when ever I would turn my key to the lock position with the timer active and the car running the starter would grind. Come to find out on the ignition barrel, the lock position and start position are 180 degrees apart. So when the ignition was bypassed by the turbo timer, It would back feed current through the lock position into the starter circuit. I wonder if this is what is happening to you. Did you do any wiring to the factory ignition plug when you did the swap? I'm just throwing some ideas out there. Edited November 22, 2011 by lowrider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CArFAn Posted November 22, 2011 Author Share Posted November 22, 2011 I don't know what exactly went wrong but i replaced all my fuses in the car and it doesn't do it anymore. I have the ignition wired up like this. 240z 12v start signal @ relay pos86 > grounded @ relay pos85 > power from batt @ relay pos30 > Then from the 7m harness the starter wire to relay pos87. Its a 30/40amp relay. I did not do anything to the ignition switch itself. I have to find a new location for my target switches that open power to the coils and igniter. What you mentioned above seems like that is exactly whats happening with me but i do not not have a turbo timer installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CArFAn Posted November 22, 2011 Author Share Posted November 22, 2011 False fix still doing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CArFAn Posted November 23, 2011 Author Share Posted November 23, 2011 Anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CArFAn Posted November 24, 2011 Author Share Posted November 24, 2011 (edited) Anyone got any ideas, i checked my wiring and all is good no loose grounds no frayed wires. Wtf happened. Video: CLICKY HERE Edited November 24, 2011 by CArFAn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhm Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 Don't know if this will help, but here's the wiring schematic for the ignition switch. Can't imagine why it's passing juice in the "Lock" position, other than a short in the harness somewhere. Couldn't tell from your video if the switch is mounted on the steering column or just hanging loose....does it do the same thing no matter where the switch barrel is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CArFAn Posted November 24, 2011 Author Share Posted November 24, 2011 Its mounted on the steering column its not all the way tight but its not just hanging loose. What do you mean where the switch barrel is? Are you saying where ever the key position is or is there more than one way to mount the switch in the barrel? The off position cuts everything off when i turn it to "lock" the wheel midway between "off" and "lock" is where this problem occurs. Then once its in the "lock" position the starter stops but everything else stays on i can tell because the fuel pump comes back on as if it was in the "on" position right before you try to start it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CArFAn Posted November 27, 2011 Author Share Posted November 27, 2011 (edited) Well i can't figure it out so i gave up and just letting it sit for awhile its pissing me off. Thanks anyway hybridz. Edited November 27, 2011 by CArFAn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CArFAn Posted November 29, 2011 Author Share Posted November 29, 2011 While im waiting on my 150$ dipstick!!!! and holset rebuild kit i have nothing to do. So i bought a new seat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CArFAn Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share Posted January 26, 2012 Upon further investigation there is a large gauge black w/ white stripe wire coming out the of the ignition switch that gets power at the lock position. I followed it to the fuse box but cannot tell what the wire is for or how it may be getting power with the ignition in the lock position. I was thinking of putting in a diode just like you would have to do when upgrading the alt to a internal regulated one. Anyone have any input whether or not this could be a permanent fix?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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