kiwi303 Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 Cardboard FTW! Hm, isn't that what I suggested way back in post 7? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 (edited) The whole idea of placing cardboard over the radiator is to keep the water from overcooling in the radiator and shocking the engine when the thermostat opens to exchange the water. I drove a big rig for years and had to deal with service problems related to the cooling system(Canada to Florida/winter to summer). The radiator baffles were to keep the exit temps from the radiator closer to engine operating temps. The Datsun engines have no mystery cooling problems. There is no problem with warming up a Datsun engine in 0f-100f weather. If you fail to turn on your cooling fans it will overheat quickly in 0f weather sitting still. Edited December 22, 2011 by bjhines Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 "The radiator baffles were to keep the exit temps from the radiator closer to engine operating temps." Think about that....just think about what you just admitted BJ. Let me give you a hint: Thermal Input not exceeding Thermal Rejection results in no net temperature rise. But I conceded it's the thermostat and that you're right. I would just hope you would let it drop instead of continuing to give me golden nuggets of your anecdotal wisdom that reinforce my incorrect analysis... And the baffles I mentioned were the THERMOSTATIC BAFFLES on the AIR OUTLET of an AIR COOLED Continental-Lycoming PE150. It was so cold, without ANY airflow through or across the cooling system (save for leaks from the shrouds which can be considered nil) the engine would not warm to a point where ANY flow across the fins was necessary. Thermal Input not exceeding passive radiation losses. Uh, kinda like your big rig radiator story... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 (edited) The baffles were set to keep engine temp steady. In cold weather the over cooled charge of water would shock the engine. The engine temp would fluctuate, Not that it stayed cold, It just pulsed, this is not optimal. The baffles were set so that the engine temps did not pulse. It never mattered at idle sitting still, the cooling fan controlled the airflow through the radiator when parked. Edited December 22, 2011 by bjhines Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 If Xnke took the time and effort to do the head tapping, cylinder 5 and 6 cooling modification, I wonder if he's also running an oil cooler. Just a thought. Xnke? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 "In cold weather the over cooled charge of water would shock the engine." How does it 'overcool' if the thermostat is working? You're digging deeper and deeper BJ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 TONY!!! You think it through and you will understand! The baffles only keep the temp steady. They are not used to keep the engine hot, The thermostat does a fine job of keeping the engine hot. regardless of external conditions. Radiator airflow is usually regulated by the cooling fan, but the air-baffles help to improve the operational range of the cooling fan control. Poor radiator airflow control will lead to temperature pulsing within the engine which is not optimal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 (edited) "Poor radiator airflow control will lead to temperature pulsing within the engine which is not optimal." And WHY would that be, if the thermostat was 'functioning properly' BJ? PERHAPS it would be because btu rejection would exceed btu input and cause warmup/temperature control problems? Should I cut down all the trees so you can see the forest? It is out there, trust me, you just need to see it! Edited December 22, 2011 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 Ummm.. No.. The thermostat is not capable of responding to the flow of cool water until it has cycled through the engine and reached the thermostat. With over-cooling of the water sitting in the radiator the engine will cool off too much before thermostat closes. This is temporary, not constant. The engine will again come up to operating temp and then more over-cooled water will again be introduced causing a pulsating temperature condition. It is not a constant condition, The engine will reach operating temp repeatedly, over and over again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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