Ben's Z Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 I started the process of taking the 280zxt donor motor from the car yesterday. I popped off the valve cover and 9 of the 12 cam lobes were rusty. Inspection sticker on windshield is from 2003. The front 3 cam lobes appeared to be fine. Should I count on buying a new cam during the rebuild? If so, is there any camshaft I should just upgrade to? I had previous posted that I was looking for 250-270rwhp and that this goal was obtainable with the stock cam. However if I am going to have to replace it, I might as well upgrade if can for minimal expense. Any reason why the front 3 would be fine and the rear 9 would be corroded? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 (edited) If you can pick up an N/A 'A' stamped cam on the cheap($50 or less, they aren't really special enough to warrant any more than another stock cam) I'd do it. Otherwise, call up isky, tell them your goals and your setup, send in the rusty cam to be reground, and enjoy. Edited December 21, 2011 by letitsnow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 Upgrading may not be as cheap as you think. A reground cam is going to require resurfaced rockers and new lash pads. On the other hand, if the rust is not too bad, you may be able to clean up the lobes and run it. And if not, a stock N/A cam should work fine with the stock height lash pads you already have; be sure to get the rockers that were used with the cam as well, and use them in the same locations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 No new cam necessary, clean up the one you have. I bet it will come out shiny and unpitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben's Z Posted December 21, 2011 Author Share Posted December 21, 2011 Can the machine shop do this? Also how do I know if my head is hydraulic or not... Flame away! No new cam necessary, clean up the one you have. I bet it will come out shiny and unpitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 Scruffy pad, green or brown, either works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 I found that firing the engine up with oil on the rusty lobes pretty much clears it up as well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 (edited) I found that firing the engine up with oil on the rusty lobes pretty much clears it up as well... Exactly, just run it, the rust won't be there for long. Just make sure the oil holes in the cam are not plugged. Edited December 22, 2011 by z-ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noddle Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 Exactly, just run it, the rust won't be there for long. Just make sure the oil holes in the cam are plugged. I assume you mean "Just make sure the oil holes in the cam are NOT plugged." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 I assume you mean "Just make sure the oil holes in the cam are NOT plugged." Yes of course... it's been a long day. Fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben's Z Posted December 22, 2011 Author Share Posted December 22, 2011 Found out tonight I have a hydraulic cam. Any disadvantage to this? I know on American V8's typically you get valve float at higher revs versus a solid cam. Same is true here? Just leave it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 I had an issue with the hydraulic lash adjusters sticking, floating, and possibly holding the valve open. Changing to a solid head fixed a massive power loss at 4500rpm and the engine ran much smoother, the car went .8 sec quicker in the 1/4 mile after fixing it(at less boost). This was a mechanical issue, I'm sure that if they were functioning properly the difference would be negligible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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