vega Posted December 28, 2011 Share Posted December 28, 2011 (edited) For my road race car (78' 280z) the engine that is being put together goes as follows. small journal 327 bored 40 over KEEPING the 3.25 crankshaft making it a 333ci motor. I am also having the mains splayed. Full arp studs for heads and mains. 5.7 rods (i already have them) 800 holly double pumper carb The heads (i was told the springs would be perfect for the cam?) http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/514032/10002/-1?parentProductId=1593012#moreDetails The intake (i will be having it gasket matched to the heads which should up the operating range also) http://www.jegs.com/i/Weiand/925/7547-1/10002/-1 The rockers (i have yet to determine if i should go the extra mile and get a girdle as well) http://www.jegs.com/i/Harland+Sharp/851/1001/10002/-1 The Forged pistons (should be around 10.4-10.5:1 compression) http://www.jegs.com/i/Sealed+Power/844/L2166NF40/10002/-1 The cam (i think i am going to degree the cam to 110 instead of 108) http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=232&sb=0 head gasket(.41 i didn't want too big because of the quench squish affect) http://www.jegs.com/i/Fel-Pro/375/1142/10002/-1?parentProductId=758649 Headers(180 degree header part#180-1) http://www.schoenfeldheaders.com/180_crossover.htm I am also considering this unit http://www.jandssafeguard.com/MarineRacing.html Just wanted a quick update to those of you that know me for 1 and 2 to see if there are any rebuttals to what is going together here. Edited December 28, 2011 by vega Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted December 28, 2011 Share Posted December 28, 2011 Vega: Before spending monies on the items you have sighted, the 327 block should be sonic tested for TOO THIN cylinder walls. It should also be tested for any cracks before outfitting it with parts. If you are hard over on the 327 then you will have to Rev it to high RPMs to get the HP out of it. That will require an appropriate camshaft, solid roller lifters, good pushrods roller bearing rockers, stud girdle etc. Hydraulic lifters go wacky at 6000 - 6500 RPM. Care should be taken to get the appropriate squish/quench by decking the block. The crankshaft and con rods should be x-rayed also. Also need good pistons. The pistons you have picked are likely on the heavy side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Posted December 28, 2011 Share Posted December 28, 2011 (edited) That's a pretty healthy cam (247/254 @0.050") for a 327, especially if you install it 2 deg retarded, with 10.4:1 compression. Desired RPM range? Resulting dynamic compression ratio? Will the rods hold up at that piston speed? Carb is borderline too large (but should be OK if you will be spending lots of time above 5000 rpm and off-idle response is not important). Is this intended for nostalgia-type of hot rod, or any particular form of competition, or mostly a fun street car? This sort of combo enjoyed some popularity here in Z's about 10 years ago. The result was a decently peppy car, which did however require lots of aggression with the throttle to keep the engine happily revving. Gear ratio and transmission type? Edited December 28, 2011 by Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted December 28, 2011 Share Posted December 28, 2011 I don't know much about small-blocks but a quartet of DCOEs plus THIS would be quite awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vega Posted December 29, 2011 Author Share Posted December 29, 2011 maybe eventually with efi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 That's a lot of cam for a road race car. It will really sing at 7K, but you might not be happy with how it pulls off the corners at 3500. Are you going to cut out the firewall to use those headers? If not, you're going to have to position the engine really forward. jt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vega Posted December 29, 2011 Author Share Posted December 29, 2011 I will be cutting the firewall, with that cam I should see ALL of my tq before 5500rpm it will really kick in at about 2500rpm, the hp shoots up pretty fast at 3400rpm-ish. Modified 700r4 trans r200 rear diff (3.545) Road race car that is (Sorta) street-able. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vega Posted December 29, 2011 Author Share Posted December 29, 2011 Crane cam 110931 (duration 228/238) http://www.cranecams.com/72-77.pdf Or Comp cam 12-677-4 (duration 236/242) http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=226&sb=0 With a lower duration and a bit more tq producing at lower rpms these are the two I am stuck between, with lunati, comp, crane, and isky in mind. I just went through all of their catalogs again and compared them all.- again (fml) I can advance the the cam on either of these to bring the rpm down a bit too if needed. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 Vega: Apparently you did not read my recommendations. Go back and read my post CAREFULLY. Solid Roller Camshafts can have significantly more aggressive profile to them. Personally, I would go with a '96 - '99 350 Vortec Block and build from there. The 327 will have to be wound up ALL THE TIME in order to make any decent power. The Vortec block castings are more consistent and CNC machined. Then use the light piston and rod combination. Best to stroke the 350 to 383 and get MORE TORQUE at LOWER RPMs as it does not cost that much more than a 350 rebuild. The Torque gained is well worth the minimal cost. Do a LOT of RESEARCH before spending ANY MONEY. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vega Posted December 30, 2011 Author Share Posted December 30, 2011 I am sticking 327 i have a forged crank for it already hence the 327 its already machined etc. eventually (not with these cams) i will be using a centrifugal supercharger blowers like rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(goldfish) Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 Centrifugal superchargers tend to make the most boost at the top of the engines RPM range wither it's 500 rpm or 50,000. you just gear it differently. Don't think you need a high winding engine to make one work good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vega Posted December 30, 2011 Author Share Posted December 30, 2011 all blowers like rpm they do have a limit before they get too hot depending on how they cool but the same can be said for turbos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saxfiend1967 Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 I agree 327 makes good power . how crazy do you want to be? I went apeshit crazy and built a 427 sbc with a 650 lift solid roller and 253 duration . the best cam for almost any street machine is a cam with around 244 @ .050 duration maybe less on a 327. a 350 with this cam will pull hard to around 7000 rpm with good heads in a 327 . here is my combo suggestion 327 294s comp cam dual plane intake and go 750 holley I know it sounds big but dual plane intake requires bigger carb. this combo is likely to produce incredible results and very crisp throttle response. you could go a little less yet and go around .235 ish on duration and not spend too much and have a dependable ride thats fun. I would use 110 or 112 lobe seperation angle on this engine.I would suggest 10 to 1 compression with aluminum heads or 9 to 1 with iron. I run a .005 deck and .039 gasket for squish. I have a 406 in my datsun right now dual plane intake 276 m marine cam from comp 10.6 pistons and dart 200 cc heads car went 7.2 in eighth mile with a t5 and it gets 15 mpg. it is fricken brutal off the line. the cam is .501 lift and 222 @.050 in a 327 torque from hell. ok Ive rambled enough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vega Posted January 7, 2012 Author Share Posted January 7, 2012 I think i will be going with a 195 or 200cc intake runner with a cam that runs a bit higher rpm. I am not sure what lift is reasonable. As in what is too high or what is too low. http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=227&sb=2 or something lower lift? http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=232&sb=2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Vega: Suggest that you invest in Desktop Dyno and use Comp Cams software. These will allow evaluation of different components and combinations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vega Posted January 8, 2012 Author Share Posted January 8, 2012 done that- they don't allow for different intake port sizes they are very very limited. i have been able to get through a lot of basic crap though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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