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help figuring out what this frankenstein is


corytate

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From what I've been able to find out from casting codes on the engine I'm getting with the S30 I'm in the process of buying, I've got a 2.4/2.6 block, 2.4 head, intake mani from the 2.6, and the twin SU's that came stock

Block code is p30

head is e31

and the intake has "e88" on it, which I thought was the code for the 2.6 head?

plans are to eventually go ZX block with flat tops, and keep the e31 head and carbs, maybe going triple webers or triple mikunis.

Shooting for a 10:1ish CR n/a carbed build.

So my questions are this:

1)in the ad on CL that the guy bought the engine/trans from (he needed the trans and the guy wouldn't separate)it was supposed to be an l28, which it apparently isn't from the codes.

2)any advantage to using the mani from the e88 head on the e31?

3)Easy way to tell if the SU's are the "performance" oriented ones or fuel economy/emissions carbs?

4)easy way to tell what pistons/rods/crank are in there? like codes on the crank, etc. I know on, say, the qr25, everything has a code on it somewhere, I just don't know where to look and how to decipher them on these engines.

That's all I can think of for now, hope this wasn't too noobish of a first post.

Thanks for your help!

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Very noobish.

 

But....

1. It is not an l28(unless he had bored/stroked it)

2. I believe one SU mani has a passage for water lines, I don't think there is an advantage to one or the other for stock HP goals

3. The good SU's have a round top, as opposed to the evil flattop design( they literally have a flat top)

4. Not unless you crack the engine, it would be cheaper to buy a known L28.

 

You have some knowledge which is more than I can say for a lot of posts.

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If you're planning on getting an L28, why even worry about this engine?

 

For #4, you might be able to peek down the spark plug holes in the head and see if the pistons are flattops or dished. These pistons aren't that dished, so it might be hard to tell depending on how much you can see, and obviously, you'll need a flashlight. I wouldn't concern myself with what rods/crank it has, so long as it runs with no knock, burning oil, etc, I'd just leave the engine alone for now, I mean you're planning on getting an L28 anyways... Not sure why you want to keep the E31, most guys sell these things as a longblock, I bought mine in running condition for $100, a F54 w/ flattops and a P79 head. The ZX heads have bigger valves, and the P90 is suposed to flow the best out of all of them. The only thing you could re-use out of the L24/26 engine that would make sense from a performance standpoint is the cam, as long as it's in good shape, and the accompanying rocker arms.

 

Read up: http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/

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Very noobish.

 

But....

1. It is not an l28(unless he had bored/stroked it)

2. I believe one SU mani has a passage for water lines, I don't think there is an advantage to one or the other for stock HP goals

3. The good SU's have a round top, as opposed to the evil flattop design( they literally have a flat top)

4. Not unless you crack the engine, it would be cheaper to buy a known L28.

 

You have some knowledge which is more than I can say for a lot of posts.

 

Fantastic, I have the round top carbs. I guess when the guy pieced together the engine he just had a 2.6 mani lying around.

the plans are to run a zx block with flat tops with head and all else that I have now, but I'll probably run this engine for a while just so I can drive it around and get everything else set up while I work on getting and piecing together the l28

Thank you for your quick response, as I move forward on this car I'll start a build thread for sure.

 

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Very noobish.

 

But....

1. It is not an l28(unless he had bored/stroked it)

2. I believe one SU mani has a passage for water lines, I don't think there is an advantage to one or the other for stock HP goals

3. The good SU's have a round top, as opposed to the evil flattop design( they literally have a flat top)

4. Not unless you crack the engine, it would be cheaper to buy a known L28.

 

You have some knowledge which is more than I can say for a lot of posts.

 

Fantastic, I have the round top carbs. I guess when the guy pieced together the engine he just had a 2.6 mani lying around.

the plans are to run a zx block with flat tops with head and all else that I have now, but I'll probably run this engine for a while just so I can drive it around and get everything else set up while I work on getting and piecing together the l28

Thank you for your quick response, as I move forward on this car I'll start a build thread for sure.

post-26638-048063100 1326658836_thumb.jpg

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From what I've been able to find out from casting codes on the engine I'm getting with the S30 I'm in the process of buying, I've got a 2.4/2.6 block, 2.4 head, intake mani from the 2.6, and the twin SU's that came stock

Block code is p30

head is e31

and the intake has "e88" on it, which I thought was the code for the 2.6 head?

plans are to eventually go ZX block with flat tops, and keep the e31 head and carbs, maybe going triple webers or triple mikunis.

Shooting for a 10:1ish CR n/a carbed build.

So my questions are this:

1)in the ad on CL that the guy bought the engine/trans from (he needed the trans and the guy wouldn't separate)it was supposed to be an l28, which it apparently isn't from the codes.

2)any advantage to using the mani from the e88 head on the e31?

3)Easy way to tell if the SU's are the "performance" oriented ones or fuel economy/emissions carbs?

4)easy way to tell what pistons/rods/crank are in there? like codes on the crank, etc. I know on, say, the qr25, everything has a code on it somewhere, I just don't know where to look and how to decipher them on these engines.

That's all I can think of for now, hope this wasn't too noobish of a first post.

Thanks for your help!

1)P30/E31 is an L24

2)The manifold is an E88, it does not mean that it came from an E88 head. That's a stock, round-top manifold

3)The flat- and round-tops are both "performance" carbs, people just don't like the flat-tops

4)See #1. I agree, run it if it's in good shape and don't worry about what's inside

 

to clarify, was thinking f54 block +e31 head. I definitely want to stay carbed.

anyone with experience with this block/head combo?

 

You're going to have to put in some of your own research. There is a ton of information out there.

 

BTW, you can use carbs on an EFI head...

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1)P30/E31 is an L24

2)The manifold is an E88, it does not mean that it came from an E88 head. That's a stock, round-top manifold

3)The flat- and round-tops are both "performance" carbs, people just don't like the flat-tops

4)See #1. I agree, run it if it's in good shape and don't worry about what's inside

 

 

 

You're going to have to put in some of your own research. There is a ton of information out there.

 

BTW, you can use carbs on an EFI head...

 

alright thank you. the issue about the "e88" manifold was I couldn't find anywhere if it was stock for the l24 or if it was frankensteined from a 2.6. now that that is answered its pretty obvious that it is a 2.4.

I'll more than likely be running it in the car while I build a 2.8 with all different parts. I might as well just find a zx block and one of the good flowing heads, and just save and get the triple weber setup that comes with the mani and all.

thanks for your help everyone

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Any head is a good flowing head, with the nod going to E31 and the early L24 E88's due to having thicker castings...

If you go through the trouble of building an engine from the bottom-up, don't saddle it with a head that is stock!

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Any head is a good flowing head, with the nod going to E31 and the early L24 E88's due to having thicker castings...

If you go through the trouble of building an engine from the bottom-up, don't saddle it with a head that is stock!

yeah I have been looking around on the l6 forum a lot more, and I have decided that I want to go with one of the 2.8 blocks (hopefully can source a siamesed flat top block from what I've been reading) and then getting the e31 head ported a bit, probably bigger valves/seats as well. I'll be going that way at least in the beginning so I have at least some parts already to work with (head and intake/carbs)

when I went to look at it and put half down to hold the car, we went ahead and mounted the engine in the car and strapped it in the back to make it a bit more stable, but it's nothing to un mount it either, it's basically mounted right now to make it easier to transport and get it out of the way. I'm going to go ahead and post all the pics I took the other day of the car in my album.

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