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Welded diff on a 240z


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Wow subaru diffs aren't that crazy expensive... and you can get an upgrade to make it a little more locked when the LSD kicks in for not that much either. Well I guess I know what I'm gonna go with when the time comes. But for now, I'll get used to the car with an open diff. That should be the best way to go about it. Thanks for all the help guys, you've all helped me a lot with figuring this out. Thanks!

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Congrats on your decision.

 

On my statement, I'd think quite a bit safer if you tune out rear brake bias. Granted this would be with the assumption you're not overloading your fronts.

 

My thoughts and conclusions ive arrived at on this subject:

 

Even if one wheel is turning at the same rate causing slippage going around a wet bend, you still have grip (as long as you have a tire with tread), so as long as your not ripping on the gas or driving too fast for the conditions, its not all too bad. And you do learn what angle/locations you start to slip at.

 

And at some points the welded diff is much preferred to open, such as when you have one or more wheels in the air (some people's driveways/neighborhoods). An open is almost useless in some places I park wheb i deliver like gravel lots, or sometimes partially in the grass, you end up either digging yourself a hole or shooting gravel straight up into the air.

 

Now I'm with you all, if you can afford it buy the LSD, all the benefits almost none of the risk. But know that the subaru diff for example costs anywhere from 100-250 used and requires fairly expensive conversion axles. And I know that some LSD like the nismo 1.5 way LSD still exhibit the same characteristics as a welded diff (low torque locking, I.e. chirping during slow turns locking on decel).

 

You can get a junkyard diff welded for under a 100. Granted not having to try and explain to the police officer why you ended up in someone's driveway may be worth the cost difference.

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The main problem I see with a welded diff is

 

A) going through tires like nobody's business

 

B) can be unsafe IF you don't know what your'e doing in inclement weather.

 

 

I've dailyed cars with welded diffs before. Make sure that you get it double plated by a GOOD welder. Don't trust anyone who is sub-par at welding, and I seriously wouldn't reccomend welding it without plates. If the weld is good enough, the input shaft or axle is going to break before the weld does.

 

And off the line, a welded diff is faster. In my 1.6 Miata with a welded diff, I beat an AE86 GTS off the line every time with an open diff. I pulled on every shift, but throughout the powerband he pulled on me simply because of the power difference.

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My only experience with spools has been in karts, but considering the lack power they had and the grip levels they were generating they certainly were very lively in the corners. I'd think it would be a lot of fun in a track car, but I personally will be saving for an LSD.

 

 

And off the line, a welded diff is faster. In my 1.6 Miata with a welded diff, I beat an AE86 GTS off the line every time with an open diff. I pulled on every shift, but throughout the powerband he pulled on me simply because of the power difference.

 

Off topic I know, but didn't the Miata have slightly more power and less weight than the AE86? And as a NA Miata owner, I don't think either of those cars have real traction issues beyond first gear, haha.

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My only experience with spools has been in karts, but considering the lack power they had and the grip levels they were generating they certainly were very lively in the corners. I'd think it would be a lot of fun in a track car, but I personally will be saving for an LSD.

 

I should've mentioned that mine was a stock 1.6 on its last leg and he had a rebuilt 4A in a gutted AE. Lol

 

 

Off topic I know, but didn't the Miata have slightly more power and less weight than the AE86? And as a NA Miata owner, I don't think either of those cars have real traction issues beyond first gear, haha.

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