RebekahsZ Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 I am installing a R200 LSD into my 240z with Z31 Turbo CV axles with JMortensen's shortened shafts and companion flanges. Almost all of my parts are on hand so I'm making final plans. At this point, I only a few questions: 1) What size/type nuts, bolts and washers do you use to attach the axles to the companion flanges? 2) To what torque setting do you tighten each of these bolts? 3) What systems of wrenches do you use to tighten and torque the 1) driveshaft bolts, and 2) axle to companion flanges bolts. I find it difficult to get a good angle on these nuts and bolts - it is just so darn crowded! I can't get a socket or a crowsfoot on the nuts and bolts. I can only get a modified box end wrench on, but I can't measure torque with a box end wrench. I'm gonna be drag racing with slicks and I don't want this stuff loosening up. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 Get them as tight as you can with the box wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 Thanks johnc-that is what I've been doing and I thought it was rather non-scientific. If "good-n-tight" is the best torque that can be achieved, then that is what I will use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 (edited) The bolts for the CV shafts are class 10.9 10mm x 1.25 x 20mm length. I realize now that I should have worked this out ahead of time and included these with the purchase of the adapters, so I have the bolts and lockwashers on order. If you would like a set I'll send them to you when I get them Monday, or you can buy them locally. 10 x 1.25 is a bit of an oddball, so you may not find them around town. I would suggest drilling the bolts and safety wiring them. You'll need a drill fixture to do this, they can be found at places like Summit Racing. Castellated nuts might work for the driveshaft. The stock bolts are more of a stud and nut thing, so I don't think that safety wiring works there. Edited March 9, 2012 by JMortensen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 OK. I never expected hardware from you, but I'll sure take it if you are offering. Need some more money for shipping and your trouble? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 Nope. I should have done it right the first time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 (edited) I used class 10.9 bolts, cleaned the bolt and adapter threads with brake parts cleaner to remove all oils, applied Locktite blue to the bolt threads and torqued them to 35 ft-lbs. I assume MM adapters are the same design (except metal finish). Edited March 9, 2012 by rossman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 Get them as tight as you can with the box wrench. I'm with John, set them to German torque spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 11, 2012 Author Share Posted March 11, 2012 New CV boots arrived yesterday from Rockford drive line. Waiting on companion flanges. JCI says my driveshaft flange measurements suggest that my current flange is correct. Ordering some clutches from Savage today, then all the parts will be on hand. Hope to start just as soon as fuel tank issues settle down. With JMortensen's shortened shafts, do I install the CV joints in the stock orientation, or do I "flip" them - don't really know what "flip" means as I've never worked with a CV joint before (please send tips). I've just read about "flipping" in order to use the MM system. I am going to be shortening my LCAs a little (guessing like maybe 1/2"), but I want the toughest axles and CVs that I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 Flipping refers to the cage on the outer end of the CV shaft. Turning it around gives you about 1/4" more space before the shaft bottoms. You don't need to do this with M2 shafts, but you have to take the gear off the shaft to put it on the new shaft, so you could choose to put it in either orientation and it's not any harder to do one way or the other. It's a non issue with the new shafts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted March 11, 2012 Author Share Posted March 11, 2012 It there any down-side to flipping the cages? Does it weaken anything or limit travel? Since I'm shortening my LCAs, I'm wondering if I should do this while I have it all apart. Sittin' on the fence. Painting your axles shafts here in a minute or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 Makes no difference at all until the cage is going to contact something. I suppose if you were likely to shorten the arms you'd want them flipped, and if you were likely to lengthen them you would want them in the standard orientation. Unless you're making the arms a lot longer or shorter it just doesn't matter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 I installed the Arizona Zcar solid front diff mount when I put in my LSD. Makes a lot more room for installing the driveshaft. Vowed to take it out after the first time I drove it. Doing that other mount kit instead. The one that is lile 60 or 100 bucks? Name escapes me. But I think (hope) it also allows quick and easy driveshaft access (and less noise) Maybe you already did all this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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