RebekahsZ Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 I installed adjustable TC rods that adjust by rotating the TC rod. I have been driving the car around town working bugs out of my engine swap and have not had car to alignment shop yet, so I haven't cranked down on the locking nuts on the TC rods yet, but I have already had one occasion where my TC rod length self-adjusted due to tire rub when driving around in a parking lot. I felt the tire rub, so I got out and checked my alignment visually: one front tire was pushed forward about a millimeter from the airdam and the other was pulled back from the airdam more than where I left it. After an alignment, I will be cranking down on the lock nut, but as a worrier, I was wondering if there was a simple mod that I could do to reduce the amount that my wheels turn-in - kind of like a bumpstop for my steering angle (other than the TC rod). This is domino effect of wider tires. Most of the related threads that I have found using search have been drifters trying to increase steering angle. I am trying to do just the opposite. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Uhhh, why wouldn't you lock the TC rod where you did set it? This seems like a very dangerous way to drive your car around. A lock nut is there to keep the rod from moving in or out, and can be backed off to make further adjustments if need be. The (adjustable) TC rods could potential spin without any physical interference from other parts, just from the suspension moving they could spin. As far as limiting steering angle, I believe there are a couple bump stops on the lower strut tube or steering knuckle, that could have a bolt added to them to reduce steering angle, I'll have to look at one and refresh my memory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 (edited) blueovalz made some steering stops when he installed a Ford PS rack. Here is one pic but the rest of them are worth a look too. The guy is quite the fabricator and extremely willing to help, but he sold his Z and is now onto a crazy Manta: http://www.fototime....reenheight=1080 FWIW I had some rubbing but never had the TC rod self-adjust. That's pretty scary. Edited April 11, 2012 by JMortensen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrandenZ Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 In the case of my 73 240z, there are metal spacers with rubber inner "bushings" attached to the steering rack. Based on what I mocked up on the car with 245/45/16s, I was actually concerned about rubbing the swaybar and/or making contact with the framerail. Oddly enough, I was much closer to both of these than the T/C rod, but maybe yours is aftermarket and quite a bit thicker than the Mikelly ones I'm running. Anyway, I had a buddy of mine turn a slightly wider delrin copy on a lathe. Installed them at both sides of the rack, calculated roughly a 8% loss at full lock. I never notice the loss at autox, only in tight parking lot maneuvers. Even still, to me it's totally worth the added peace-of-mind. I'll see if I can dig up pictures of what I'm referring to, sounds like it may do the trick for you as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrandenZ Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Unfortunately I wasn't able to turn up any pictures of the work. However, I checked with my friend and he believes that he managed to take a few good shots. He also said he'd be willing to turn a set for you if you have any interest. I still have the old stock piece we can use for the inner and outer diameter, so you'd just need to determine the additional width that you'd want over stock in order to best limit travel for your situation. Feel free to shoot me a PM if you'd like to discuss in more detail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 I'm gonna study the recommendations that JMortensen and BrandonZ provided. It wasn't anything major-I pay attention and double check things before they get to the scary point. I know what lock nuts are for, but even with a locknut if the tire scrubs it, the potential is there for it to come loose again even after tightening the lock nut. I think about potential problems and try to find ways to avoid them. Thanks, gentlemen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Keith, the solution is simple-turn the wheels less and steer with your right foot-use the LSx force! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 (edited) Yeah, I'm getting good at my right-footed power pirouettes (see youtube link). My old non-adjustable TC rods had places where I had worn the paint off due to the same problem. I would expect that the TTT adjustable TC rods would not have this problem because their adjuster is so short. I can't remember where I got my rods, but the entire rod is an adjustment barrel. Ya'al stop teasing me - I'm serious! May the force be with you. http://youtu.be/ZYAFoso0CLk Edited April 11, 2012 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Do you have camber adjustment? I have the ZF racing lower control arms which allow me to adjust camber as well as 'push' the wheel out a bit further. At full lock I am nearly touching the frame rail but never touched the t/c rods. Perhaps this approach would work for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 Hmmm. I just installed TTT LCAs. Can you measure your front track at the ground next chance you get? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrandenZ Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 This may be why I see the same thing on my setup as 1 tuff z. I currently have Mikelly adjustable front control arms, lengthened a bit from stock to dial in negative camber as well. If not for the longer custom rack spacer, I'd have clearance issues to the framerail and/or swaybar, but have at least 1/4" to the T/C rod. I'm now interested in this as well, as I'm looking to install camber plates in the future, and dial the LCA back to stock length. Keith -- You may also want to toy with actually adjusting your T/C rods and see if that helps. It occurs to me that I also have a fair amount of positive caster dialed in, and if I'm picturing the effect this has on the placement of the hub, it would seem to me that the more positive caster, the further the wheel would "push" away at full lock from the T/C rod. You should try lengthening them way out and see if that helps your situation. Of course, this might then push you into the front fender, which is the problem I currently have (can't dial in as much positive caster as I'd like). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 Thanks guys. Now that I have some ideas, give me a little while to give them a try and I'll report back on what I learn. I was really hoping I could weld a little "nubbin'" on my steering knuckles that would hit the LCA and limit how much I can turn the car - ain't nothin' ever easy! Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 I know what lock nuts are for, but even with a locknut if the tire scrubs it, the potential is there for it to come loose again even after tightening the lock nut. Evidently, you don't. Once a lock nut is tightened correctly, a tire rubbing against the TC rod will NOT cause it to loosen, if it does, the lock nut is not tightened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 OK Six_shooter. I can appreciate that you think I'm an idiot-I get that. I took your input and filed it with the other suggestions. Please unsubscribe from this thread - you are off topic and not helping. Please find someone else to "help." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrandenZ Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 Hey Keith -- it really may be as simple as dialing in a bit more positive caster. Given that you haven't had your car aligned to any particular spec, it's really hard to say. Even if that does not do the trick, I can assure you that my steering rack stop solution will. Please report back your findings when you have the opportunity and we'll take it from there. Basically if caster doesn't cut the mustard, I can have my friend lathe out the same length extender, then you're two inner rack joints away from swapping them out and limiting your overall lock-to-lock travel. Given the scope of what you've accomplished on your project thusfar, solo, I'd call it pretty easy by proxy. =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smyrna388Z Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 Simply pull the steering rack boot back on both sides and install a two piece clamp collar around the rack at both ends. This will limit the amount of rack movement and therefore reduce the turn angle. You can do both sides in about 10 minutes. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smyrna388Z Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 A 1" ID two piece shaft clamp works perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 6, 2012 Author Share Posted July 6, 2012 Where can I get one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smyrna388Z Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 McMaster Carr - search shaft collars (two piece) Many choices I selected the steel type and installed it behind the brass washer and the inner tie rod on both sides of the rack. Very easy and works great. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smyrna388Z Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 Correction - Between the brass washer and inner tie rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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