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Willow Springs (the big track) is easy on brakes and not a fair test. You can use OEM type pads there without issues. Buttonwillow is a braking track and will show off any brake problems you have. I've never been on the California Speedway, but I know where it is. One or two hard braking stops does not generate enough heat to be a problem, it's repeated hard braking without sufficient time to cool down that creates problems. Big Willow for example, only has three braking turns, one, three and five with plenty of cool time. Buttonwillow has 19 turns depending on the configuration and a lot of braking areas, I'll guess at ten.

 

For cold weather or any street driving you want a pad that works at cool temperatures. OEM type pads are ideal for this. Race compounds don't work well until they're hot. Street pads stop working when they get hot. When pulling a trailer (with my work truck) I was getting heat fade with OEM pads so I put on Porterfield R4-S. I have excellent braking now without the heat fade. I can tell when they're cold as compared to the OEM. But the first stop sign takes care of that.

 

I have Porterfields on both my Z and my work truck without any noise. Since I haven't used anything else yet I can't compare brake pad types. I am having some heat related issues with the Porterfield R4 on the Z. Going to run some cooling ducts and see how that effects things. If the pads are cracking or turning white they are over heating.

 

Porterfield stocks brakes to fit almost every car ever made. If they don't have it they will custom build it for you.

 

Go to Porterfield, Hawk, Raybestos web sites and read what they have to say about brakes and compounds. They all make high-end race brakes (pads) as well as stuff suitable for a daily driver.

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I have Porterfields on both my Z and my work truck without any noise. Since I haven't used anything else yet I can't compare brake pad types. I am having some heat related issues with the Porterfield R4 on the Z. Going to run some cooling ducts and see how that effects things.

 

I was running cooling ducts through my front air dam to my calipers when my Porterfields cracked at Auto Club Speedway but had no issues with the Project Mus in the same set-up. When you think about, a stock 240Z brake set-up is the ultimate heat test -- tiny brake pad over a solid rotor. I had the opportunity to compare pad performance at my two favorite tracks and found the Project Mu pads made the Porterfield pads look like crap. Now with my new larger caliper set-up and vented rotors, I look forward to outbraking other Z's on Porterfields. Cheers! :D

Edited by Sandy455

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Guys I have to ask your forgiveness. The whole point of my post was to add clarity and actual numbers. I may have misled.

 

The Toyota S12 calipers are for the VENTED ROTOR brake upgrade. So to determine the additional un-sprung weight you need to consider the extra weight of the vented rotor and spacer as well as the caliper.

 

I have both of these items so here are the numbers:

Aluminum spacer, 11 oz.

Vented rotor, 13 lbs. 5 oz.

 

I do not have a stock rotor loose and handy. If someone out there does, and has some good scales, we can get some honest numbers on this swap.

 

FYI, the solid stock rotor swap uses the S12+8 caliper which I do not have to weigh for you.

 

Sorry folks. Tried to clear the waters and ended up adding mud. :(

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Speaking of the Vented Rotor conversion, does anyone have dimensions/ a picture of the rotor spacer? I'm a diy'er with access to most anything I need to make my own, and can figure out what I THINK it should be, but if somebody has the 280z spacer thickness etc, that would certainly cut the chase for me.

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Speaking of the Vented Rotor conversion, does anyone have dimensions/ a picture of the rotor spacer? I'm a diy'er with access to most anything I need to make my own, and can figure out what I THINK it should be, but if somebody has the 280z spacer thickness etc, that would certainly cut the chase for me.

 

Ditto, was going to ask to include the spacer thickness in the link as well.

 

But regardless its some excellent and concise information. Well done!

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I ended up making a bastardized spacer today out of 0.4" and then had to space the caliper back to get it centered correctly. I'm also using a S13Wxxx caliper, so I'm not sure how that differs from the S12 ... Had to grind down the 'cooling fins' on the caliper to get it to clear one of my wheels though. Mesh knockoffs needed the grinding, my turbines did not. Just has to do with the cutaway profile of the rim.

 

Spacer thickness:

 

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/55250-how-thick-of-a-spacer-do-i-need-toyota-4x4-brake-upgrade/page__view__findpost__p__500794

Edited by yellowoctupus

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I'm currently looking at doing this brake swap for my S30 and I clicked on the link but it was dead! Do you happen to have this info still? I would love to have access to this info as I'm looking at doing a Toyota brake swap into the 260z and you seem to have all the info compiled into one spot which is hard to find

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16 hours ago, JersyThor74 said:

I'm currently looking at doing this brake swap for my S30 and I clicked on the link but it was dead! Do you happen to have this info still? I would love to have access to this info as I'm looking at doing a Toyota brake swap into the 260z and you seem to have all the info compiled into one spot which is hard to find

 

Topic has been covered many times here. 

 

Answers are in the FAQ brake section and in the brake forum.

 

There are many great write--ups on the Toyota swap on the web.     Google "240z Toyota brake swap"  etc etc.

 

There are issues with this swap. Research is best.

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16 hours ago, JersyThor74 said:

I'm currently looking at doing this brake swap for my S30 and I clicked on the link but it was dead! Do you happen to have this info still? I would love to have access to this info as I'm looking at doing a Toyota brake swap into the 260z and you seem to have all the info compiled into one spot which is hard to find

 

I actually have some I just took off my 260Z, calipers, rotors, brake line. They have been sitting for a few years and have a little rust. Yours for a six pack. 

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Spacer thickness:

So after many, many years I actually bolted this stuff up last night on my car.

 

First, you can buy beautifully manufactured spacers from Techno Toy Tuning for a very reasonable price. But...

I did, and they didn't fit. I'll call them on Monday. 

 

I did have a set of janky looking home-made spacers I got somewhere many years ago and , joy-of-joys, they fit.

Now, there are apparently two sizes based on whether you have 240 hubs or 260/280 hubs. 240 hubs have scallops in the wheel bolt flange, and the 260/280 is round with no scallops.

 

I have 240 hubs and the spacers that fit on my car are .650" thick.

The spacers I got from T3 that are marked 240 are .780". I may have gotten a set of the 260/280 spacers from a batch that was marked wrong. 

 

Last note: The T3 parts are gorgeous (they just don't fit) and they are drilled for both 4 and five lug patterns.

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"The spacers I got from T3 that are marked 240 are .780". I may have gotten a set of the 260/280 spacers from a batch that was marked wrong."

 

This has happened to other HybridZ members who bought the T3 spacers. 

 

 

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