BlueStag Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 Hey guys. Does it actually happen that one pipe slips into another and is clamped, can that ever actually close up tight, or am I wasting my time? I really don't want to weld this joint just. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 (edited) I don't completely understand your question but, an exhaust clamp (D shaped thing) will hold pipe together just fine. If you have a welder why not? I only left a clamp where my exhaust will need to come apart. Edited May 5, 2012 by Challenger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueStag Posted May 5, 2012 Author Share Posted May 5, 2012 Challenger: No, you understood me. One pipe is 2"id and the next is 2"od. My L6 is in a Triumph Stag. It's rear suspension is similar to that of a 280ZX, semi-trailing arms. There are two holes in the subframe that supports the diffy and the semi trailing arms for the original V8's exhaust to pass thru. Mine is routed thru one of those holes. Which makes the exhaust pretty rigid. Taking the down pipe off the manifold is next to impossible on my car if the down pipe is welded to the rest of the exhaust. So I want a slip joint there. I am having trouble getting the clamp to close it up. It could be that I need a slightly smaller clamp. So you think I can close it tight with a muffler clamp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 This is what I would use: http://www.amazon.com/Vibrant-1488-Stainless-V-Band-Assembly/dp/B000E3XK32 http://www.anclamotorsports.com/vibrant/vibrant_exhaust_fabrication_vband_flange_assemblies/1488/i-37762.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 I bought a V band assembly off ebay for ~$20. The machining on the flanges is great, assuming I don't warp them when I weld it, it should seal great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 Most muffler shop style slip joints are too loose to seal unless the pipes are distorted by the old style muffler clamps. SPD, Burns, and others make tight slip joints (called Transitions) that are held in place by a T-Bolt clamp, bolt tabs, or collector springs and self seal when the exhaust tubing heats up. They can be a bitch to get a part of anti-sieve isn't used during assembly. The inlet side of this merge collector shows a typical transition slip fit These Stahl headers show a bolt tab slip fit. Below is a turbo header I amde showing a bolted slip fit connection: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 (edited) I had good luck with the thin polished stainless sheetmetal clamps that overlap the step joint on my last L24 exhaust system. They are low profile and seal well. There was just enough leakage over a 10 year period to cause a sooty spot where the clamping mechanism is but never enough to stink or make a ticking sound. I would use the stepped kind (they make them for butted joints too), use antiseize like johnc said and wipe off any excess. Mine never leaked and came apart easily after 10 years of use (race car/storage car-not very many miles). I think speedwaymotors.com stocks them. Summit and Jegs probably do too. I was skeptical of them at first, but they were great and I think they would have lasted a long time trouble free. I used one to join my header to my 2-1/2" exhaust tube. Header was steel, exhaust tubing was stainless. I had 3 of them along the main exhaust pipe in case I needed to service any of it - never had a problem. Johnc - I have no experience with bolted slip joints. Would you recommend them on a daily driver? Edited May 5, 2012 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 If the stepped clamps worked for 10 years, why change? A bolted slip joint like in the pictures above is more expensive to build and is designed for frequent assembly/disassemble. For even faster servicing on race cars I used collector springs and tabs: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueStag Posted May 5, 2012 Author Share Posted May 5, 2012 Well, that is all nice technology. I won't be employing that stuff, I think. Pricy! Possibly the v-clamp could work for me, if I just can't get it tight with a conventional clamp. Or I may just gut it out and weld the joint shut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six_Shooter Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 If it's a joint that will need to come apart, I would use the V-band style clamp. Using the conventional crush clamps that are common, usually make it near impossible to get an exhaust system back apart, especially without heating excessivly using an oxy-acetylene style torch to expand the outer tube. Another option would be a wide stepped band style clamp, that could be used with a slip joint and usually allow for an easier dissasembly later on, since there is no crushing of the tubes. Soot and carbon from the exhaust can cause the slip joint to become tight however and may still be difficult to get apart. As suggested using some anti-seize could help get them apart later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 I'm onboard with Six-Shooter's last post on the JDM-Style wide band clamps. That was how one was assembled. They work darned good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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