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Car smells like burnt oil under load. No smoke in exhaust???


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If you read my engine rebuild thread, I may have been taking this problem a bit too far. The problem I am having is that there is burning oil smell in my exhaust, or maybe there is just burning oil coming from the engine... The thing is I replaced the front crank case seal and that stopped the only real "leak" my engine had. I can leave my car in the parking lot for days and there is no embarrassing stains from her time of the month. My car only smells like burnt oil under load. The general consensus seems to be check the valves. It seems like a very simple job that I would be happy to do, but are there any other causes?

 

Also I bought a fel pro head gasket off of ebay which arrived bent ever so slightly pictured here,

CIMG0847.jpg

 

Should I be concerned?

 

Also I have a couple problems and if you have an opinion on fix order I would appreciate it.

 

I have floor pans that are in pppreeeetttyyy bad condition. The PO included brand new baddog frame rails in the purchase, but I still need to fabricate floor pans and I do not own a welder... YET

 

the u-joint is also going. The rumbly sound I get in 5th gear isn't my transmission going bad but something in my driveshaft from what I can figure.

 

Sooo considering I am going to be 20 years old in about a month, and am balls deep in college I'm not really looking at making money. I am trying to build my reputation as a web developer and I didn't get into the google summer of code so I have to look for other means of scholarship money. Until then I get the occasional help from the family because they don't want me driving a death trap. What should I do?

Edited by MazerRackham
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That slight bend won't be a problem since when you torque the head down it will straighten it out. I don't know why you didn't just go to Autozone a pick one up/order it. Either way I wouldn't change the head gasket with out knowing for sure that it is the problem, mainly because its a pain in the butt.

 

My Z smells like burning oil under intense acceleration as well. I'm 22. Live with it. I just add oil every now and then and fix any exhaust leaks since that's more than likely why you can smell it.

 

Another possible cause of your oil smell could be the engine is just plain old. Rings are worn out, which is more than likely. Doesn't mean it will blow any second, it could stay like this for 5-10 more years. I would just drive it. Get a spare motor rebuilt at you're financial leisure just in case. Or just get a JY spare.

 

Valve job is easy. There is a really good step by step process all with pictures floating around on the internet. I just don't have it favorited on the comp I'm using right now. Takes 30-60 mins.

 

Edit: Winning..... http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/1803105

 

You may consider taking it to a welder to have them fit some floor pans nice. Or you can just buy the floor pans and bring it to a welder. Won't be terribly expensive if you strip and prepare everything for him.

 

Rumbly sound could be more than U joints. Possibly diff or diff mount. Could be an unbalanced drive shaft or loose bolt also ( I would check those ASAP, losing your drive shaft at 70mph sucks)

Edited by BluDestiny
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Could be your valve seals. Under load, you could be sucking oil into the cylinders and causing a little burnt smell. There's some Viton seals, (I forget the brand, ford or something, that fit and work will with unleaded gas, compared to the old Black style.) just search on here and you should find them. Might be the case.

 

That head gasket should be fine.

 

Yeah check the bolts, if not those, then check the U joints, especially if you hear a clunk between forward and reverse. The U joints ARE replaceable, I've done it. it's just a Pain in the asterisk.

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Could be your valve seals. Under load, you could be sucking oil into the cylinders and causing a little burnt smell. There's some Viton seals, (I forget the brand, ford or something, that fit and work will with unleaded gas, compared to the old Black style.) just search on here and you should find them. Might be the case.

 

That head gasket should be fine.

 

Yeah check the bolts, if not those, then check the U joints, especially if you hear a clunk between forward and reverse. The U joints ARE replaceable, I've done it. it's just a Pain in the asterisk.

Thank you for the pro tips guys! I am going to search, attempt to fix and report back with results! You guys are the best!
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Positive crank ventilation. Thats the opening on your valve cover and right behind the distributor opening. If oil is spraying out that could be burning on the manifold.

 

Also, how does your oil look? Do you have an oil temperature gauge?

 

I was gonna make a neener neener comment since I just graduated from college sunday but, I will refrain. haha

 

Good luck!

Edited by Challenger
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I'm thinking PCV too. If the PCV valve is worn out, it could be allowing too much of the air from the crankcase to go into the intake manifold, which will likely contain some oil. This wouldn't be a lot of oil, but I guess it could be enough for you to smell it. Otherwise, valve seals are pretty common, and a valve adjustment wouldn't hurt. There is a ton of threads about the ford viton valve seals, they're very popular and proven. The gasket kit I got for my L28 included some viton valve seals. I'm not sure if it is only for the 280zx L28 or if it's just something that company included.

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Should I change the valve springs while I'm in there? I noticed the PO hasn't done **** to the engine. Pardon my french, but the block was still using factory injectors and fuel hose lines when I received it. I guess what would be good things to do while I'm rooting around in there?

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If you're going to go so far as replacing the springs, you might as well have the head off, and taken in to have it planed, valves ground and hardware like springs and all replaced. You'll have to adjust the valves either way. May not notice any power gain unless your head is tired. Thought that should certainly eliminate the head as a culpret. If you do, be sure to replace your headbolts. I would suggest checking the PCV valve first as they suggested above. It's MUCH cheaper to replace.

 

The PCV valve allows pressures that leak past the piston ring seals to escape the bottom of the engine (crankcase) so that pressure doesn't build up reducing performance, or blowing your oil pan seal. The released pressure is usually piped back into the vaccuum of the intake to be recycled since it usually contains unburnt fumes gas and oil vapor. Sometimes it's vented to the atmo often in Forced Induction cars.

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